Fresh from the stealership--black Audi A4 *56K* maybe

EBPcivicsi

EBPcivicsi

GOT PREP?
This is another detail that I did over the weekend. The car came from a local stealership so I knew exactly what to expect—lots of swirls and half-a’ interior job. At least they didn’t try to buff it. :o



The paint was in rough shape to say the least. I also knew that the clear would be very hard—it was.



The process was:



Wash



Spot clay



Buff with Hi-Temp extreme cut/OP with an orange pad @1700 RPM’s



Buff with BF SRC FP via PC and a green SM Arnold polishing pad @speed 6



Z6 wipe down



Two coats of Z5 PRO (ZFX enabled)



Interior was vacuumed, cleaned with APC, vinyl dressed with Vinlyex, leather dressed with Lexol.



Exterior plastic got Klasse AIO



Exterior rubber moldings got Hi-Temp bumper/trim restorer



Tires wear Meguiars all-season dressing



Glass cleaned with EO 20/20



Before:

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tn_IMG_3467.jpg




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tn_IMG_3477.jpg
 
Stunning!





Now, a couple of questions:





-Is that road paint on the rear bumper? Any luck removing it?

-Did you use HTEC/OCP? I only see HTEC listed.

-What did you use as a final polish?

-How do you like Z5 Pro? Your results look stunning.





Sean
 
G35stilez said:
Stunning!





Now, a couple of questions:





-Is that road paint on the rear bumper? Any luck removing it?

-Did you use HTEC/OCP? I only see HTEC listed.

-What did you use as a final polish?

-How do you like Z5 Pro? Your results look stunning.





Sean
Click to expand...



Sorry, I will edit the post, I guess I was out of it when typing the post. :o



I did use the OP in conjunction with the EC.



The FP was the blackfire SRC FP, purchased based upon your recommendation. What an amazing product--perfect for my process.



I really like the Z5 PRO, mainly for its' ease of use and superior results. I find that the Z system has a unique look, far different from anything else. While it could be described as "glossy" or "wet" I tend to think of it as the only sealant that looks like you added clear. It looks Jolly Rancher candy. :D About the ease of use--it's very easy to apply, but most importantly I never get streaks, smears, or uneven marks. Now perhaps this is because I understand how to apply thin layers, but this is a real strong point of the product IMO.
 
ebpcivicsi- Anther great job!



Good move using AIO on the exterior plastic :xyxthumbs



So the BF by PC was able to finish out what the HT/OP mix left huh? Does the OP make the High Temp Extreme Cut *that* much milder or could you have just followed straight Extreme Cut with the BF polish?



Every time I look at my M3 I think I might need something stronger than the PI-III RC 05933 and I really don't like using the PI-III EC 05936 so the High Temp stuff is tempting. One of these days I'll actually start on the M3 and I want to have the right stuff on hand.
 
Accumulator said:
ebpcivicsi- Anther great job!



So the BF by PC was able to finish out what the HT/OP mix left huh? Does the OP make the High Temp Extreme Cut *that* much milder or could you have just followed straight Extreme Cut with the BF polish?



Every time I look at my M3 I think I might need something stronger than the PI-III RC 05933 and I really don't like using the PI-III EC 05936 so the High Temp stuff is tempting. One of these days I'll actually start on the M3 and I want to have the right stuff on hand.
Click to expand...





Accumulator: If I may...





HTEC/OCP even with a cutting pad @ 1500 rpm is easily finished off with the BF polish. The nice thing about the ceramiclear polish is that it's abrasives cut a little harder than many finishing polishes, but finish down beautifully with a finishing pad on the rotary. Plus, the HTEC/OCP mix does, in fact, finish down to only minimal buffer marring. I usually do 3-4 slow overlapping passes and allow the mix to become transparent.



I used Menzerna Powergloss exclusively for about two years. Since I tried this mix, I haven't looked back.
 
G35stilez said:
Accumulator: If I may...





HTEC/OCP even with a cutting pad @ 1500 rpm is easily finished off with the BF polish. The nice thing about the ceramiclear polish is that it's abrasives cut a little harder than many finishing polishes, but finish down beautifully with a finishing pad on the rotary. Plus, the HTEC/OCP mix does, in fact, finish down to only minimal buffer marring. I usually do 3-4 slow overlapping passes and allow the mix to become transparent.



I used Menzerna Powergloss exclusively for about two years. Since I tried this mix, I haven't looked back.
Click to expand...





I totally agree, the HT EC even without the OP will finish to an almost-ready-for-LSP finish. Follow up with a final polish and you are set. Adding the OP to the mix IMO allows the product to be worked longer and controls dusting. EC is a product that IMO, everyone should have on hand (assuming they will be using the rotary).



If you would like to try some, shoot me a PM--I always buy the gallons. :D



BTW Sean, that was paint. I tried a little bit of everything including the sprayway grafitti wipes--nothing budged. :(
 
RogueM3 said:
Is it not recommended for usage with a PC?
Click to expand...





On the first quart that I ordered (about two years ago), it said that you could, but when I started ordering gallons there was no mention of it. AFAIK, the formula has not changed, but I just don't know for sure. IMO, in most cases if SSR2.5, HT MC, or DACP will not remove the defects via PC, it's time to step up to the rotary.
 
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