Fresh from the body shop

R

regal

New member
I just got my Toyota back from the body shop, they ended up painting half the car. I asked them if they used heat cure enamel , heat cured urethane, or air dry urethane. The guy could only say we use factory spec paint.



So when can I start polishing, Klasse AOI & Klasse acrylic on this. Do I wait a day, a week, a month ?
 
I think conventional wisdom is that you can *polish* it now, but do not use any sort of sealant or wax for 90 days. The amount of time is variable according to type of clear coat, temperature, humidity, etc., but 90 days (this time of year) should be more than long enough.
 
SuperBee364 said:
I think conventional wisdom is that you can *polish* it now, but do not use any sort of sealant or wax for 90 days. The amount of time is variable according to type of clear coat, temperature, humidity, etc., but 90 days (this time of year) should be more than long enough.
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Agreed.



And even if the body shop used heat to cure it I'd still wait the 90 days.
 
Its odd because the paint we use on the motorcycles where I work can be waxed day 1. An Acrylic Melamine cured in an oven is cured out of the oven and will not cure any further at room temperature.



I guess these urethanes are different animals.
 
They are. And the damage caused by putting wax/sealant on too soon can not be fixed; it's gas bubbles that get trapped in the paint as it tries to off-gas as it cures. It makes the clear coat look milky.
 
What about tar and bugs, I would imagine leaving tar on the urethane could cause permanent damage, whats the best way to remove tar on fresh urethane?
 
I don't think that it's chemical resistance ability changes as it cures at all. Whatever is clear coat safe will be fine. It's just the off gassing that causes the sealant/wax problem, not any susceptibility to chemicals.
 
I just got my rear bumper re-painted. No wax or sealant for at least 60 days and 90 to be safe according to the owner of the body shop (top notch operation).



However, since the paint is dry, silicone and chemicals are not an issue. Any true QD (no wax or sealers in it) is fine, and he OK'd OID that I am currently using. The paint will still offgas with a QD. You just don't want to seal it in with a wax or sealant until this process is complete.
 
My answers in red





[quote name='Flashtime']Which model/year? 09 Toyota Yaris

What was repainted? Hood, Grill, Rt Door and QP, Rt Fender

How many coats of clear? Which clear? Unknown, they just said it is to factory toyota specs, it was done by the dealer)[/COLOR

]How much was the job?new hood, new fender painted half the car where the dear scratched up the doors and QP, new grill, new rad/condesor support, $5k/QUOTE]
 
tmg19103 said:
I The paint will still offgas with a QD. You just don't want to seal it in with a wax or sealant until this process is complete.
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What is a QD? can you recommend a product. I really want to get the tar off without damaging the paint. I am afraid if I wait 90 days to remove the bugs and tar along the rocker oanels it will stain. Can I just use generic bug and tar remover?
 
regal said:
What is a QD? can you recommend a product. I really want to get the tar off without damaging the paint. I am afraid if I wait 90 days to remove the bugs and tar along the rocker oanels it will stain. Can I just use generic bug and tar remover?
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Before i started detailing my dad's cars, he'd leave bugs, tar and a whole heck of a lot worse on them for 18 to 20months at a time. You'll be fine.



Anyways, why do you want to start polishing a brand new (partial, heh) paint job. It hsould have been wetsanded and buffed properly in the first place - if there's marring or something on the paint when you picked it up, you should have demanded they do it properly.
 
efnfast said:
Before i started detailing my dad's cars, he'd leave bugs, tar and a whole heck of a lot worse on them for 18 to 20months at a time. You'll be fine.



Anyways, why do you want to start polishing a brand new (partial, heh) paint job. It hsould have been wetsanded and buffed properly in the first place - if there's marring or something on the paint when you picked it up, you should have demanded they do it properly.
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First of all no insurance paid body shop will wetsand and polish, that is just crazy talk. Wet sand polish buffing out orange peel is for the $5k paint jobs.

Taking out the parts this paint job was probably $1000 for half the car.



Second I want wax on the paint to protect it, we have a lot of tar on these roads and it can stain the paint without a wax protecting the top layer.
 
regal said:
First of all no insurance paid body shop will wetsand and polish, that is just crazy talk. Wet sand polish buffing out orange peel is for the $5k paint jobs.

Taking out the parts this paint job was probabply $700.



Second I want wax on the paint to protect it, we have a lot of tar on these roads and it can stain the paint without a wax protecting the top layer.
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Find a better shop; mine did for me.
 
efnfast said:
Find a better shop; mine did for me.
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Toyota doesn't wetsand and polish after painting their new Yarii, all the inssurance pays for is factory spec, the rest is up to me and my porter.
 
regal said:
What is a QD? can you recommend a product. I really want to get the tar off without damaging the paint. I am afraid if I wait 90 days to remove the bugs and tar along the rocker oanels it will stain. Can I just use generic bug and tar remover?
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regal said:
Second I want wax on the paint to protect it, we have a lot of tar on these roads and it can stain the paint without a wax protecting the top layer.
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The paint is protected just fine with clearcoat. Not waxing or sealing for 90 days will not harm the new paint. It will actually allow the new paint to improve and to last longer by letting it offgas.



As for bugs, I have never had a problem with them not coming off through hand washing, so perhaps someone can recommend something for that. A chemical bug cleaner that is then washed off and removed from the paint should not be a problem for new paint.



A QD is a quick detailer. Some have more cleaning abilities than others, but I stick to ones that have less cleaning ability and more pop (gloss and depth) as I only use them after hand washing to increase the effect of the carnauba wax I use. My choices for best QD's are OID and FK 425, but everybody has their preferences. I don’t use a QD in between washes even on a car that is not very dirty as it can mar and with the jet black car I have you see every possible swirl.



Thus, with my rear bumper just being re-painted, I will continue my normal routine with the rest of the car (wax with P21S 100% every three weeks) topped with OID after each wash weekly wash and for the newly painted bumper it just gets OID for 90 days with my weekly wash.



In 90 days I will be to my winter prep where I will remove everything, clay, do three coats of UPGP with a day between coats to cure as a sealant and then top with P21S 100% every three weeks plus OID every week when I wash ( I have a heated garage with a drain so I don‘t have to change my routine for the winter).



Repeat process in the spring and do paint correction then if needed. I find this gives a great look to my jet black car.



So, don't worry about the new paint. Just wash it and if you want to apply a QD to the whole car after a wash to give it that pop for 90 days. In the meantime, feel free to wax the rest of the car that is not new paint. After 90 days give your car the whole treatment, including paint correction to the old paint if needed.
 
Most shops do not use heated lamps to bake paint on, unless they have a rush job and want the paint to harden faster. "baking" term is an old skool term that was for the old style lacquer paints. It's all mostly in the hardeners mixed in it and the type of weather.
 
regal said:
First of all no insurance paid body shop will wetsand and polish, that is just crazy talk. Wet sand polish buffing out orange peel is for the $5k paint jobs.

Taking out the parts this paint job was probably $1000 for half the car.



Second I want wax on the paint to protect it, we have a lot of tar on these roads and it can stain the paint without a wax protecting the top layer.
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you have a crappy shop then. don't speak in general terms.
 
The automotive industry uses a 2k (2 part) Urethane. It can both be heated or "air" dried. The drying method does not change the outcome. Most shops "bake" the cars simply because, the faster they can finish a car, the sooner they can start on another thus making more money.



3M is the most popular in the industry for polishing because its made to be safe for newly painted jobs. Do not put a wax on the car. There has been some debate about wheither or not todays sealants are okay. Several people have used them and say they are okay, and then we have some old school people who prefer to stick to the general rules.



Most glazes are safe (like 3M).



If your car is an outdoor car and you are in a hotter climate, I'd say its safe to say it will be cured within 60 days, but if its garaged and in a colder climate, wait the full 90 days.
 
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