For all you TOUCHLESS washers out there

Oh, you guys.....you get me thinking how I could maybe put up some huge "shower curtains" and start PWing :think:



SuperBee364 said:
A long bristeled BHB "flicks" stuff off the paint like a broom, and if you keep the water flowing, it never gets a chance to stick to the bristles, especially if you keep dunking/rinsing it as often as you should. Properly used, a BHB is darn near as mar-free as not touching the paint...



It's so gentle it doesn't even hurt the dirt :chuckle: Hence SuperBee364's prewash with the PW. And the frequent need for some kind of more-mechanical follow-up wash.




efnfast said:
Btw, I know you really like the BHBs, but how can you safely put them ahead of ONR+mf. Atleast with the ONR+mf you can go panel by panel and examine your cloth - if it has any dirt on it, stick it in the washing solution and rub it out then and there and the cloth is clean. With a brush you really can't see if dirt is adhered to it.......



I'll toss out my $0.02 on BHBs here.



The contact pressure with a BHB is *MUCH* less than that used with ONR. I barely contact the paint at all with a BHB, whereas with any type of MF/mitt/sponge you have to at least apply enough pressure to hold it against the panels, and that's a *lot* more than it takes to barely whisk the tips of the BHB's bristles across the finish.



I spray the BHB/point of contact with the paint with foamgun output. Noting that I have boosted water pressure that might factor in here, that foamgun output (no, it's not really foam IMO) not only provides soap and lubrication, but it also keeps the BHB rinsed clean.



You *can* see dirt on BHB bristles, but if you use it correctly there shouldn't be much of anything to see.



BHBs are *so* free-rinsing that you can pretty much flush away (potentially abrasive) dislodged dirt instantaneously with the foamgun, the moment it gets knocked free from the paint. Used without a foamgun, you just have to keep rinsing/redunking the BHB *very* frequently so it's always fully saturated with shampoo mix (hint: don't use a BHB without a foamgun ;) ).



Moving the BHB (or any wash medium) in an interrupted, jiggling motion will help keep it rinsed out and will also minimize the severity of any marring that does occur. People move their media in long swaths and then wonder why they get foot-long scratches.



When I use ONR, I have to examine/deal with my wash media a lot more often than once-per-panel; it gets contaminated with dirt and I just don't trust the voodoo. Same, to an even greater degree, when using a mitt and conventional shampoo. If the dirt adheres to the wash medium, then marring becomes very likely.



But with the BHB/foamgun combo, no such worries. While I do still dunk the BHB in my rinse bucket as I feel necessary, by the end of the wash that rinse water is still almost entirely dirt-free because the dirt got flushed away rather than trapped in the BHB. IMO the only dirt in my rinse water comes from my follow up wash with the mitts, which don't rinse out nearly as well as a BHB.
 
Turbocress -



You are not missing out.

Build from the bottom up...



Quality wash media and quality drying material for ~your paint~ that works....is a good starting ground. Along with good soap that has great lubricity....
 
SuperBee364 said:
Yes, i do an extremely thorough HP rinse fitst.



The two most important things, IME/O, for the best touch-free results: the LSP and the soap.



You need an LSP that freely gives up whatever is sticking to it. Overall, wax-based LSP's are best at this, as 'nuba swells when it gets wet. Some sealants are good at spitting stuff off, too, like UPGP and 1000P. DWG (touted as a glaze) has a sealant base, and it does well with touch free washs, too. My *least* favorite for touch free use is zaino.



Most car soaps have very little real, detergent-type of action, they concentrate on being a lubrication for your wash mitt. You want a *soap*; something that is meant to chemically clean ( but gentle enough to not take off your LSP in the process). Right now, my fav for this is CG's Citrus Wash N Gloss.



Let us know how it goes for you.

Will Optimum's Car Wash shampoo do the job for this?
 
The only car wash that I've found so far that has adequate (and even then it could be better) detergent action is Chemical Guy's Citrus Wash N Gloss, or Citrus Wash Clear.
 
I've yet to try CQG in my foamer BUT it makes a nice combo with Griots Car Wash soap. Lubricity of Griots with a punch of cleaning action with CGW. Just started playing around with my CWG
 
chefwong said:
Turbocress -



You are not missing out.

Build from the bottom up...



Quality wash media and quality drying material for ~your paint~ that works....is a good starting ground. Along with good soap that has great lubricity....



hah no worries, i do have everything i need right now for a good wash with very minimal scratches going on the paint if any at all. so very little of this :buffing: is going on throughout the year to keep me happy.





but having a foam gun is a must on my list anyway, and so is a pressure washer, they are essentials if you plan to do anything professionaly later on IMHO, but for right now, no need :)
 
SuperBee364 said:
Yes, that's right...



Anytime I find myself in the position of saying anything potentially negative about Zaino, it makes me nervous. Zainoites can be some of the most fanatical, um, "enthusiastic" people I've ever discussed anything with on the internet. So in an attempt to keep them appeased, I do like to point out the positives of the product first. Zaino is one of the best *looking* sealants on the market. It *looks* great, and it *lasts a long time*. But that is all it does. When it comes to protecting your car from dirt, water spots, etc. it falls flat.



So true. I liked the looks and the longtime beading, however a few years of use woke me up to the fact that it doesn't protect your paint. Its sad that so many people are blinded by the looks and beading.
 
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