FNG, What do you think of my plan? Auto Glym SRP>NXT
- Thread starter kdrchuck
- Start date
Accumulator
Well-known member
kdrchuck said:
Yeah, sounds good. As long as a) nothing goes wrong (e.g., pad falling on floor) and b) you don't use too much product, that should be enough pads.
Heh heh....yeah, it's *not* exactly easy
"Can?" as in possible or "can" as in likely? If you do a test spot (representative area, from compound to polish, *rigorously inspected*) you shouldn't be able to mess up more that that one small area. And I honestly think this stuff is easy enough that a significant screw-up should be *VERY* unlikely.
BUT, people do stuff I'd never expect (even though I can be pretty imaginative
) and you just never know. Work carefully. Think about what you're about to do at each step and why. Pay attention. Check your progress. Don't do a whole bunch of stuff and *then* discover that something looks bad in, say....natural sunlight, something that you didn't see in the garage.
You oughta be fine.
Less will get done. Greater chance that you'll end up frustrated and think it wasn't worth the time/effort. FWIW, I'm not a big fan of trying to get by without the compound step (note that others like to "push" their polishes to outperfrom by using aggressive pads, not me). The Optimum Hyper Compound isn't all *that* aggressive by random orbital. More like a super-swirl-remover. And it *IS* user-friendly, you can even make mistakes and it's so forgiving you'll probably never know you messed up! It leaves a nice finish too, not some "ugh, that looks *compounded!" result by any means.
Note that the approach I'm advocating is pretty gentle. Probably so gentle that it'll fall far short of "Autopian Perfection" but *will* make it look a whole lot better. Trying to dial it back even more would probably be a mistake. If you're paying for the polishe, and putting in the time and effort, you might as well at least get results that'll justify all that.
BTW, I really do think you oughta go with the Optimum stuff. Their compound is a lot easier to use than M105, and while I haven't tried their new spray polish yet, the oils in M205 might be a headache on black. Barry Theal and I were just talking about those oils yesterday...
I haven't used either and know nothing about the Solo. The UC is a good alternative to M105 but I'd *MUCH* rather go through the hassle of ordering Optimum's spray compound than buy UC OTC. I really do think you oughta set this whole thing up so that it's as easy as possible. Much less likely that something will go haywire that way.
THanks, ACC
Yeah, I finished up the tailgate today with some Meg UC and I am defintily going to get a machine before I do any more. I may go with the Edge pads though. Still reading and at least a payday away from the order.
I ended up getting the Meg's repair kit today at Advance Auto. (Went after the Ulttmate Compound, which is in the kit.)
Before looked like this plus scratches from debadging:
I did 3-5 hits with UC in the bad spots and 1 hit on the entire tailgate.
After Meg UC and Meg Canuaba Plus (in the kit).
Outside. This is where th Chevy Bowtie used to be.
Yeah, I finished up the tailgate today with some Meg UC and I am defintily going to get a machine before I do any more. I may go with the Edge pads though. Still reading and at least a payday away from the order.
I ended up getting the Meg's repair kit today at Advance Auto. (Went after the Ulttmate Compound, which is in the kit.)
Before looked like this plus scratches from debadging:
I did 3-5 hits with UC in the bad spots and 1 hit on the entire tailgate.
After Meg UC and Meg Canuaba Plus (in the kit).
Outside. This is where th Chevy Bowtie used to be.
Accumulator
Well-known member
kdrchuck- Sounds/looks like you made enough headway with the UC by hand to see that this stuff is doable :xyxthumbs
I use the Edge pads on rotaries and my Cyclos, but not on "regular" random orbitals; IMO (and that's all it is, *my opinion*) the motions of that type of machine aren't really well-suited to the Edge adaptor....just too much of the wrong kind of stress. I sure wouldn't want to break off the threaded spindle.
I use the Edge pads on rotaries and my Cyclos, but not on "regular" random orbitals; IMO (and that's all it is, *my opinion*) the motions of that type of machine aren't really well-suited to the Edge adaptor....just too much of the wrong kind of stress. I sure wouldn't want to break off the threaded spindle.
I guess i am satisfied with what I got out of the hour or so working on the tailgate. I was pretty happy with the results from the UC and am very curious what it would do in my hands with a machine. I have seen some good results out of it searching around the forum (but they know what they are doing).
For now i guess I am thinking get the machine, Some pads???, and the optimum stuff. Test the UC beside the Optimum and go from there.
Another Question: What, If anything, should be done to recently (within a month or 2) waxed paint before correcting?
BTW, Thank you Accumulator and others for hanging in there with me. Hopefully someday I can throw up some "after" pictures showing how your advice has been helpful.
For now i guess I am thinking get the machine, Some pads???, and the optimum stuff. Test the UC beside the Optimum and go from there.
Another Question: What, If anything, should be done to recently (within a month or 2) waxed paint before correcting?
BTW, Thank you Accumulator and others for hanging in there with me. Hopefully someday I can throw up some "after" pictures showing how your advice has been helpful.
After UC you may as well go straight to NXT2. Don't worry about SRP if most of the swirls are gone. NXT is perfect after UC.
IMO, NXT looks great on black if you like the reflective look. It really darkens and deepens it nicely too.
As for comments on it's cleaning ability, as they say over at MOL, the applicator cleans more than NXT wax. It's cleaners are very mild.
IMO, NXT looks great on black if you like the reflective look. It really darkens and deepens it nicely too.
As for comments on it's cleaning ability, as they say over at MOL, the applicator cleans more than NXT wax. It's cleaners are very mild.
Accumulator
Well-known member
kdrchuck- The compound will almost always just cut right through any existing wax, no problem. Especially if you clay it. You could always use some IPA or something to compromise said wax first, and/or do the wash with a *really* potent shampoo solution.
Alfisti,
That sounds great. That is one thing i liked about the UC. Seems like a one step and wax. (hopefully). If Iwere to do that; UC-NXT. I imagine i would use a polishing pad rather than a cutting pad. (If that diminished the swirls enough). If not then maybe two steps with the UC on a cutter first and then the polishing pad, then wax.
ACC,
Thanks.
That sounds great. That is one thing i liked about the UC. Seems like a one step and wax. (hopefully). If Iwere to do that; UC-NXT. I imagine i would use a polishing pad rather than a cutting pad. (If that diminished the swirls enough). If not then maybe two steps with the UC on a cutter first and then the polishing pad, then wax.
ACC,
Thanks.
I have prepared shopping carts a ADS and Autogeek. Items include:
GG DA
Buff and Shine Cutting and polishing pads with appropriate backing plate
(I can get 12 pads for the price of 6 meg's pads. If you think i should get more than just 2 types (for this simple man) please tell me. I am considering getting 12 anyway.)
OSP/OHP
Some pad cleaning products
a Clay kit
Will i need a cleaner broduct between Polish and Wax?
I also have the UC and SRP. I will Use the NXT on top of the UC if that is sufficient. I will have the Optimum stuff if i need it. After talking to my neighbor we are planning on tackling his old landrover if everything goes well. I think i have realistic expectations. And am willing to proceed. I am man enough to stay away from things that i think i can't handle. I've watched lots of videos and read lots of posts here and on other forums.
GG DA
Buff and Shine Cutting and polishing pads with appropriate backing plate
(I can get 12 pads for the price of 6 meg's pads. If you think i should get more than just 2 types (for this simple man) please tell me. I am considering getting 12 anyway.)
OSP/OHP
Some pad cleaning products
a Clay kit
Will i need a cleaner broduct between Polish and Wax?
I also have the UC and SRP. I will Use the NXT on top of the UC if that is sufficient. I will have the Optimum stuff if i need it. After talking to my neighbor we are planning on tackling his old landrover if everything goes well. I think i have realistic expectations. And am willing to proceed. I am man enough to stay away from things that i think i can't handle. I've watched lots of videos and read lots of posts here and on other forums.
Accumulator
Well-known member
kdrchuck- This response is mighty late, considering you had your shopping cart all figured out yesterday...but I think you'll be OK.
Until/unless you get a strong preference for a certain type of pad, I'd rather you have plenty on hand. I do think that a light cutting pad and a polishing pad are a sufficient range (unless your situation turns out to be one of those problematic ones).
If you want a cleaner between the Polish and wax you could probably just use IPA, plenty of people swear by it and even those of us who prefer PrepWash (buy it here: Top of the Line Auto Detailing Supplies ) used IPA initially with at least pretty-OK results.
BTW, I'm glad you're inclined to keep it simple :xyxthumbs
Until/unless you get a strong preference for a certain type of pad, I'd rather you have plenty on hand. I do think that a light cutting pad and a polishing pad are a sufficient range (unless your situation turns out to be one of those problematic ones).
If you want a cleaner between the Polish and wax you could probably just use IPA, plenty of people swear by it and even those of us who prefer PrepWash (buy it here: Top of the Line Auto Detailing Supplies ) used IPA initially with at least pretty-OK results.
BTW, I'm glad you're inclined to keep it simple :xyxthumbs
Actually Acc you are right on target.
I ordered 4 med cutting, 4 Green polishing, one of each of the rest. looks like you might have picked more of the "white heavy polishing" and "blue soft Polishing" As you might expect: "the check is in the mail" I guess we will see what happens. Even if the more aggresive pads are more than i want, The Rover i was talking about is a neglected 10 years old and i have heard their paint is "hard". That doesn't mean much to me in my newb ignorance so more research will be required for that task. Thanks
I ordered 4 med cutting, 4 Green polishing, one of each of the rest. looks like you might have picked more of the "white heavy polishing" and "blue soft Polishing" As you might expect: "the check is in the mail" I guess we will see what happens. Even if the more aggresive pads are more than i want, The Rover i was talking about is a neglected 10 years old and i have heard their paint is "hard". That doesn't mean much to me in my newb ignorance so more research will be required for that task. Thanks
Accumulator
Well-known member
kdrchuck- I think that people usually find that things need *more* aggressive work than expected, so I bet you'll be fine. FWIW, I don't have all that much use for *very* gentle polishing pads so your choices probably mirror what I woulda bought.
Just remember to do a test spot and inspect it *thoroughly* in all kinds of light so you know for certain whether you're on the right track or not. Don't do the whole vehicle only to find that you needed to tweak your technique.
Just remember to do a test spot and inspect it *thoroughly* in all kinds of light so you know for certain whether you're on the right track or not. Don't do the whole vehicle only to find that you needed to tweak your technique.
Accumulator
Well-known member
kdrchuck said:
No, nothing wrong with it at all. The 845 will almost certainly last longer than the NXT (alone) would have, and you can compare the before/after looks to see if you discern a significant diff. Just try to apply the 845 gently so it's less likely to affect a solvent action on the underlying NXT.
Thanks guys, good info. BUT
I just saw a black Silverado on the "trail Rash" thread and that is exactly what I want out of my black silverado. Not super wet, but crystal clear and deep reflections. I checked out the Z2 a little more and it sounds like it might be a little complicated for a newb (but not doable). Is there a simpler product that would give me similar results. (I know a lot depends on the correction, I am simply talking LSP).
I just saw a black Silverado on the "trail Rash" thread and that is exactly what I want out of my black silverado. Not super wet, but crystal clear and deep reflections. I checked out the Z2 a little more and it sounds like it might be a little complicated for a newb (but not doable). Is there a simpler product that would give me similar results. (I know a lot depends on the correction, I am simply talking LSP).
Accumulator
Well-known member
kdrchuck- I for one wouldn't put *ANY* real stock in how something looked with a particular LSP in some internet pix.
NO, that's *NOT* a slam at the read you mentioned, or anybody, or anything. It's just how I see it.
But FWIW, I wouldn't go the Zaino/etc. route unless you can get the paint pretty close to 100%...IMO that one *is* all about correction. And I'd check out some Z'ed cars in person before you try it, that's one LSP that *does* have a real "signature look".
NO, that's *NOT* a slam at the read you mentioned, or anybody, or anything. It's just how I see it.
But FWIW, I wouldn't go the Zaino/etc. route unless you can get the paint pretty close to 100%...IMO that one *is* all about correction. And I'd check out some Z'ed cars in person before you try it, that's one LSP that *does* have a real "signature look".
Accumulator
Well-known member
kdrchuck- Heh heh, copy that...easy to go right off the deep end, huh