Flying Blind

A

AquaHawk

New member
On my grandparents van there are some pretty hefty scratches (looks like key scratches) I don't have proper tools (like a paint depth gauge) but I just want to make it look better. So I was going to wet-sand it for them to improve the look because it is bad. The van isn't worth much considering how old it is, and it has rust and mechanical problems. So if I mess it up, which I really don't want to that is why I am here, it won't be a huge deal. (They are going to get rid of it in a year or so anyways.) But do you have any tips so I don't screw it up wet-sanding? I got about 2500 and 3000 grit paper which should work pretty good on the scratches present. Any tips would be appreciated. I will probably start working on it Friday. (Will post pics)


Thank you!
 
Just make a couple light passes with the sandpaper. Don't go overboard. Then, <u>AVOID OVER-HEATING AND OVER-BUFFING THE SURFACE</u>. That goes for the cutting and polishing steps. Otherwise, have fun. 
 
Are you doing wet sanding as a last resort,

Or as a first option?


I understand that you want the training,

but have you exhausted every other alternative?


I am not a wet sanding expert by any means,

But there are some great threads here....

Iirc, one suggested soaking the paper first
 
I was going to soak the paper for about a day. Some may be able to come out with just compounding and polishing, but most are pretty deep scratches.
 
Wet sanding is not some deep secret wizarding thing, and especially with 2-3000 grit paper. There's some good write ups if you search but the reader's digest version is:


clean the area


make sure the paper is wet - dip in a cup of warm water for a few minutes


make light, even passes and use a rubber pad as a backing device, just using your figures could cause uneven removal of paint


check your work often with a spray of clean water


don't freak when the paint starts to look dull and cloudy - that's normal


buff with something like M101/105 or HD Cut or Adapt


 


I use to sand cars for a bodyshop when I was back in high school, we had to deal with those old lacquer (GM) and acrylic (Ford) paints and I would start with 320 grit, finish with 400 and then it would be sprayed with primer, sanded with 400 again and painted - you ok? I figured a few of ya'll just fainted after reading that. But, these were single stage paints, totally different from that stuff now. If the scratches are deep, the best you do is lessen there appearce, you wll be bringing the rest of the area around them closer to their level - ie you be thinning yo paint , Should you? That's the question only you can decide. I have a couple cat scratch fever marks on my rear bumper, red Toyota, they are not fingernail catching and I know I "could" get them out, will I? I haven't decided, but yeah - probably!
 
AquaHauk- I *would not recommend that you do it*.  It's just a "ratty old van" but if you cause clearcoat failure your grandparents are gonna be up a creek looking for a $2000 paddle.  They don't park it outside in the  sun do they?  Oh, they do?!?  Am I making my heavy-handed point? ;)


 


Some "vans" (e.g. my old Mazda MPV) come with clear that's so thin you simply *cannot* wetsand it without precipitating failure.  Cheap, cheap paintjobs.  If it's a "conversion van" it might be even worse as many of those were badly converted.  Oh man, just don't do it to those old folks, they don't need problems.


 


Don't go so far that you obviously "fix" the oe orangepeel and you might be OK.  Stop before you think there's *any chance* that you should stop.


 


Dont underestimate how hard it is to correct 2K sanding scratches, and yeah I mean with stuff like M105 for the initial passes.


 


Did I remember to suggest that you *not* wetsand it?  OK, just checking...
 
Wow, what great reasons to not proceed without a paint gauge. I remember a thread where David pointed out that you need a gauge that differentiates between clear coat and paint thickness. That it sounds expensive.


I am conflicted with this thread. Part off me says to go for it, but the other part is scared.


Even though it is a ratty van, you should get some pieces from the junk yard and practice there first. I would especially practice on rounded portions, or just don't touch the edges at all.


I can understand that you want to learn, which is why the other side of me says to get practice. Ultimately, I think Accumulator is right, what if you give them something worse to worry about. The title sums it up. If you really think that you are flying blind, don't do it. Practice, then have some comfort, then try.
 
Thanks for all the replies.


I actually found out they were scratches by a plastic spoon?! (they had a party for my cousin, so guessing that is where it happened) and most of the imperfections came out. I wanted to do it and half of me didn't too. Because I actually don't know how much CC there is without a tool to determine otherwise. I watched enough videos and felt confident I wouldn't screw up, but at the same time know it's different from just watching. Anybody can watch. I was actually going to patch up the deep scratches with bondo/putty and a paint pen, then sand off and buff.



Again thanks for the replies.
 
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