Flex 3401 and Audi paint

G

Goleafsgo

New member
I've searched for a few opinions on the Flex 3401 results on Audi paint and I've seen a few different opinions. I'd like to get a few more though. I'm considering buying the Flex but I'll pass on it if I still have to sit there working all day to get the paint in decent shape on my Audi. Last spring I went over my car with the PC and 4" pads.. it still took a long time and it wasn't anywhere near the results I can get with the PC on my Ford.



Is the Flex worth a try? I was looking at picking up that and I've heard good things about the Menzerna 3.02 polish for tough clear coats. My Audi is pretty beat up again after winter.. I'm not looking forward to a day of listening to the PC and still not being able to get great results either
 
I had the same concerns, went with Flex 3403 (rotary polisher from DetailersDomain/phil).

I will let you know how it goes, he still hasn't received my 4" bp yet that I ordered (Lake Country Version) Which means I have my flex, and don't have anything to try it out with!



I think the lesson hear is, Audi paint (A6 2005 IME) is Frozen Diamonds hard. I can barely get the PC after a half hour, to correct a 2x2 section, using VERY aggressive polish. So I am thinking we need more heat to let the polish correct the way it was designed.



As soon as I can try it out, I will be posting reviews etc. As far as the 3401, I have basically given up on all DA, and have gone to a true correcting 'tool', the rotary.



IB
 
I don't think you'll have a problem, search the Click & Brag section, I'm sure you'll come up with something. The flex has MUCH more correction ability than the PC.
 
I'll be interested to hear how the Flex works on Audi clear :think:



I *can* correct it via PC (*with a 4" pad*) and I've even done it by hand (areas behind door handles), but the rotaries make the whole thing reasonable. Even then it can be slow going with foam (even foam cutting pads) and I'm leaning towards using wool the next time.



Based on what I've done by hand/PC-4", I don't *think* heat is the necessary factor. Unless the *product* needs heat to break down....
 
I'm with Accumulator.....waiting to hear how this works. I can't expand my weekend business much due to being unable to tackle hard clears in a reasonable time. Trying to debate whether to take the "feared" rotary jump (though I don't think I'd have much trouble), or play it safe with the flex. Hopefully someone can chime in on how it does on the stupidly hard clears.
 
I have an 07 Audi A3 a Flex 3401 and a Hitachi rotary. My suggestion is that if you already have a lot of experience with the PC, try a rotary on a beater to get experience and confidence. Once you have those, rotary on an Audi and other hard clear is a godsend.



I tried out my Flex DA/LC Orange/SIP on my Audi and it took a long time to get a significant level of correction (about 80%). Whereas my rotary/light cutting wool/SIP combo did a better job in much less time. One thing though, the rotary left some holograms and i admit it probably was my inexperience. However, my Flex DA/Ultrafina/LC Gray pad took out the holograms easily.



In the beginning i was afraid of the rotary, but sooner or later we all have to face our fears in order to advance. I was glad i did.
 
I had the same concerns, went with Flex 3403 (rotary polisher from DetailersDomain/phil).

I will let you know how it goes, he still hasn't received my 4" bp yet that I ordered (Lake Country Version) Which means I have my flex, and don't have anything to try it out with!
Click to expand...



Trust me I know what you are going through. I have been waiting for Phil to get the LC BP in so that I can use it with my 4 inch pads :(
 
kkjv1 said:
I have an 07 Audi A3 a Flex 3401 and a Hitachi rotary. My suggestion is that if you already have a lot of experience with the PC, try a rotary on a beater to get experience and confidence. Once you have those, rotary on an Audi and other hard clear is a godsend.



I tried out my Flex DA/LC Orange/SIP on my Audi and it took a long time to get a significant level of correction (about 80%). Whereas my rotary/light cutting wool/SIP combo did a better job in much less time. One thing though, the rotary left some holograms and i admit it probably was my inexperience. However, my Flex DA/Ultrafina/LC Gray pad took out the holograms easily.



In the beginning i was afraid of the rotary, but sooner or later we all have to face our fears in order to advance. I was glad i did.
Click to expand...



Yeah, this is the same thinking I have really. I could pick up a rotary and only bust it out to get the tough stuff out and finish with the PC. My results would be quicker and better. Plus I think I have enough experience and spent enough time on here that I know what precautions to take and the basics of how to operate a rotary (from all the great vids from Megs and everywhere else). Plus, many of my family members have some older trucks that I could practice on to get my technique down. As soon as I save up enough money, I'll probably make the inevitable jump.
 
CleanGSR- That's *exactly* how I view/use my rotaries :xyxthumbs And yeah, IMO you have the right mindset to be able to do as I did- I took the new Makita right out of the box and corrected my beloved S8 with it, no problems at all. Hadn't touched a rotary in over 20 years and I'd *never* used one on b/c paint before.
 
goleafsgo- As I've probably posted a zillion times...the whole rotary-trepidation thing is a matter of the individual user. If you have the right mindset and knowledge base, thn there's simply nothing to worry about. If you *don't* then any and all fears are well-founded.



Once you understand what's going to be happening, and you're paying attention, and you're not fighting the machine....then I truly think that one of the greatest potential problems is simply the "just a little bit more..." temptation, where things are going so much better than by PC that an "Autopian personality" starts thinking that maybe 100% perfection isn't unreasonable after all.
 
Accumulator said:
CleanGSR- That's *exactly* how I view/use my rotaries :xyxthumbs And yeah, IMO you have the right mindset to be able to do as I did- I took the new Makita right out of the box and corrected my beloved S8 with it, no problems at all. Hadn't touched a rotary in over 20 years and I'd *never* used one on b/c paint before.
Click to expand...



You have an audi S8? :drool: Well, if you grabbed the rotary for the first time in 20 years and went to town on your S8, then I feel a little better about my first "test" vehicle being my wife's Chevy Prism.
 
CleanGSR said:
You have an audi S8?
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Yeah, an '01, I traded my Mallett 'vette for it. Deered it in '03 (recounted in the Car & Driver forum "Audi S8 vs. Deer" thread), and other than the quality of the deer-incident repairs it's pretty nice (~14K miles, and I keep the undercarriage about as nice as the hood). It was the post-deer-incident condition that I used the rotary to correct, before that it was literally nicer than showroom new.



Using the rotary on it was all a matter of keeping my head screwed on right. You oughta do fine.
 
Accumulator said:
Yeah, an '01, I traded my Mallett 'vette for it. Deered it in '03 (recounted in the Car & Driver forum "Audi S8 vs. Deer" thread), and other than the quality of the deer-incident repairs it's pretty nice (~14K miles, and I keep the undercarriage about as nice as the hood). It was the post-deer-incident condition that I used the rotary to correct, before that it was literally nicer than showroom new.



Using the rotary on it was all a matter of keeping my head screwed on right. You oughta do fine.
Click to expand...



Very cool (not the deer part). I'm gonna go search for that thread now.
 
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