Fk1000p two thumbs up

anyone ever apply this in the sun?

512- gave this a shot today, with no complaints on my end. It was 78 and sunny outside, applied it and left it on for about 15 minutes,came off pretty much the same way as applied in shade and just to be safe since it's on black paint i just did a 2nd wipe down with some QD. Did a Maintenance wash today on this black metallic CRV i maintain on a monthly or so basis and has had a coat of FK1kp since Nov. 13th 2015. that was the last time it got cleaned until today so it's had junk sitting on it plus the weather since then has been all over the place.

After i washed everything up, i noticed the FK was still doing its thing and water was still beading/sheeting off which was pleasing to see.


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After wash:
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FK1kp Applied(light session of HD Polish on hood only beforehand):

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And removed:
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Accumulator:

If I understand correctly, you were a fan of Collinite products, but have switched to FK 1000

Why, what have you found to be advantageous with FK? I love Collinite products and have never tried FK.
Thanks
 
Accumulator:

If I understand correctly, you were a fan of Collinite products, but have switched to FK 1000

Why, what have you found to be advantageous with FK? I love Collinite products and have never tried FK.
Thanks

If you like Collinite then IMO you oughta just stick with it.

I did like how the 476S looks on some colors, the FK1000P isn't as nice when you want depth/jetting/etc. It's more of a bright/reflective/sealanty look.

But the Fk1000P lasts longer and protects better. Nothing wrong with the performance of the Collinite, but in my case the difference was enough to prompt me to switch. Note that on the (dark blue pearl, really trashed paint) '93 Audi, while I've switched to FK1000P overall, I'm still using 845 on the rubber trim at the bottom of the doors and the textured (but body-color) paint on the rockers and the underneath. IMO that car looked better with 476S on it, but the 476S didn't provide the degree of protection I need on *that* car due to specific issues that probably wouldn't apply to any other vehicle. I switched the Tahoe to FK1000P just so I could, uhm....neglect it more/worse than I could with 476S and yes it absolutely worked out that way.

Also, sorta on the same topic, on shiny black plastic exterior trim, I'm still using the Klasse twins (very heavy on the KSG) instead of other LSPs.

In some ways, the FK1000P and KSG both provide unique protection IME. Different from each other and from other LSPs. And for some applications the 845 still seems to work out the best for me and I can sure understand why somebody would find the 476S (or 915, which I've never used) to be the best choice. Not a better/worse or right/wrong kind of thing IMO.

And hey, I'm still using M16 on my wife's A8, sometimes going with the old 3M Showcar Paste Wax instead.
 
210d0cc2ae08d97ca9cb4067a23f8d06.jpg

thinking about putting some fk on my neighbors new wheels. ..have 2 of them now..thinking about fk on one, black label on another,
Then the other two once he buys them with poorboys wheel sealant, and bf crystal seal.
Would be a cool comparison once he gets them installed next month.
fk up front against pb wheel sealant wss my thought
 
512detail- Remember to account for the diffs between front/rear with regard to dusting ;)
Yep. Thats why i figure fk vs pb up front. Wouldn't be fare to do one against a coating...coat all barrels with bf cs of course...gonna try the paint sprayer method previously illustrated on my bf cs application thread.
Will do my old srt wheels at the same time since theyre all polished up too
 
If you like Collinite then IMO you oughta just stick with it.

I did like how the 476S looks on some colors, the FK1000P isn't as nice when you want depth/jetting/etc. It's more of a bright/reflective/sealanty look.

But the Fk1000P lasts longer and protects better. Nothing wrong with the performance of the Collinite, but in my case the difference was enough to prompt me to switch. Note that on the (dark blue pearl, really trashed paint) '93 Audi, while I've switched to FK1000P overall, I'm still using 845 on the rubber trim at the bottom of the doors and the textured (but body-color) paint on the rockers and the underneath. IMO that car looked better with 476S on it, but the 476S didn't provide the degree of protection I need on *that* car due to specific issues that probably wouldn't apply to any other vehicle. I switched the Tahoe to FK1000P just so I could, uhm....neglect it more/worse than I could with 476S and yes it absolutely worked out that way.

Also, sorta on the same topic, on shiny black plastic exterior trim, I'm still using the Klasse twins (very heavy on the KSG) instead of other LSPs.

In some ways, the FK1000P and KSG both provide unique protection IME. Different from each other and from other LSPs. And for some applications the 845 still seems to work out the best for me and I can sure understand why somebody would find the 476S (or 915, which I've never used) to be the best choice. Not a better/worse or right/wrong kind of thing IMO.

And hey, I'm still using M16 on my wife's A8, sometimes going with the old 3M Showcar Paste Wax instead.

Thanks for the info. I never would have thought that FK would outlast the 476, but if it does, then it must be fantastic. I'll probably try a tin of it next just for the comparison.
 
Thanks for the info. I never would have thought that FK would outlast the 476, but if it does, then it must be fantastic. I'll probably try a tin of it next just for the comparison.

I'd be interested to hear how it goes if you do try that comparison. The whole YMMV thing can make for some interesting study and I'm always curious about how others view the FK1000P's look on various paints, *especially* after they've lived with it for a while (I initially hated it on my GMC but ended up *liking* it after all, liked it right away on my '93 Audi despite not expecting to).
 
I just wanted to toss a few bits into the discussion.
Back on post #11, I had commented about some spotting when using UWW+ as a presoak and rinseless wash on my Black DD Lacrosse, waxed in early December with FK1000 over DG105/601. This past Saturday, I did the same procedure on the same car with the same weekly accumulation of salt spray, but this time used DG Rinseless as both a presoak and wash. Results were much better, no streaking or spotting. I've been touting the benefits of FK as a wheel sealant for quite a few years. Late on Sunday, I did a quickie bucket wash on the wife's Cruze, using my PW rather than a hose. I blew the tires wheels and wheelwells clean, then proceeded to wash the rest of the car. Losing daylight, I hurried to rinse everything, forgetting to wash the wheels in the process. When drying, there was no dirt on my wheel towels! The PW had blown it all clean! I may vary from FK on the paint after the spring cleanups, but it'll stay my go-to on wheels.

Bill
 
Billy Jack- Yeah, the PW can work really well on FK1000P'ed stuff as long as you don't go *too* long between cleanups.

Sounds like the previous issue really might've been related to the UWW+ since the DG Rinseless worked OK..interesting to me as I've never used either rinseless product.
 
Anybody ever use any of the following on a car topped off with FK1000p?

-ONR (just tried this yesterday. no adverse effects, so I'm good here)
-ONRWW
-Optimum Car Wax (spray)
- Megs Ultimate Quick Wax

I'm a little concerned about using some "spray wax" type products over an LSP'd car. (OR ONRWW for rinseless washing, as that's how this particular car is washed) Haven't experimented much in that department, and wouldn't want to screw something up!
 
Anybody ever use any of the following on a car topped off with FK1000p?

-ONR (just tried this yesterday. no adverse effects, so I'm good here)
-ONRWW
-Optimum Car Wax (spray)
- Megs Ultimate Quick Wax

I'm a little concerned about using some "spray wax" type products over an LSP'd car. (OR ONRWW for rinseless washing, as that's how this particular car is washed) Haven't experimented much in that department, and wouldn't want to screw something up!

I've used every one on your list, plus DG Rinseless, DG Aquawax, Meguiar's RFEW and Sonax BSD. All worked just fine. The only issue I had was with Ultima Wash &Wax +, detailed back in post 11.

Bill
 
I had seen that post about UWW+ (post 11) and figured I'd stay away from that one. :)

Cool deal. Thanks Billy Jack

And I know Accumulator has used IUDJ on FK1000p without issue, so that's another one we can add to the list.
 
As I mentioned in Post #13 I've had no issues with UWW+ and FK1000, but I applied the FK1000 to bare paint rather than over another sealant so that may be the difference.
 
As I mentioned in Post #13 I've had no issues with UWW+ and FK1000, but I applied the FK1000 to bare paint rather than over another sealant so that may be the difference.

I agree on applying FK1000 over sealant I do not think it will bound but this is from a weekend detailer :) I have it on my wifes work van which I applied after correcting and it still the Bees Knees .........
 
It kinda surprises me how FK1000P bonds to various underlying products. IMO it's one of those things where you simply have to try the combo in question and see if it works *for you*.

I'd expect it to bond to sealants like KSG, but I wonder about UPP/BF/etc. But then again, BF is gets topped with waxes, and with regard to "what it bonds to" I think FK1000P basically behaves more like a wax than a sealant (gee, FK calls it a wax...). It just *lasts* and looks like a sealant.
 
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