Fk1000p two thumbs up

S

ShawnF350

New member
Well, after selling my home in early December, I made settlements two weeks ago on a new home.
With no attention to my vehicles lately , I can't believe how my cars are holding up.
After the blizzard, I sprayed some diluted PB bugsquash on each car And just power washed (high press soap then rinse) them at the local carwash .
Clean and still beading . No salt residue at all.
One coat on two vehicles and two coats on my third. (Done in Sept/Oct)
The snow we had today just slid right off with my Snowbrum.

Hands down the best winter wax I've ever used.

Great Suggestion Accumulator...
Hoping to do some rinseless washes this weekend.
 
Should be warm enough this weekend for a full blown wash job, snow foam and all..........................
 
425 isn't too bad. I had some issues with foggy spots that would appear the next morning. I've personally had better results topping FK with BFWD polymer spray. The shine is wetter and it beads/protects nicely.

- Patrick
 
Great stuff, my current favorite Sealant. I do a rinseless on one of my vehicles that's topped with FK1000P every single week and the dirt comes off so easily, especially behind the tires(rocker panel/rear bumper skirts) where all the road junk and tar stick to, all it takes is a quick wipe down and it looks new again.
 
awesome...another member was kind enough to send me some

very excited to use it on my hellcat replica wheels once I get time to polish them out
 
512detail said:
anyone ever apply this in the sun?
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Not me yet since i've only been messing with it during the "cold" months here in TX. The real test will be during the summer down here right? At this point, my assumption would be that it might not be much of a pain, since every time I've applied and let it cure for several minutes or over an hr, it has come off pretty effortlessly IME. I have it on my wheels as well and they clean right away with a MF towel and wheel woolie soaked in rinseless solution.
 
shawnF350- Glad it's working out so well.

On the FK425 (and FK146 too for that matter), while I do really like FK's QDs on FK1000P, I get pretty much the same effect (looks/slickness/ you name it) by using IUDJ at a sorta-strong concentration. MUCH cheaper and does a better job of cleaning up anything I'd missed during the regular part of the wash (I know, shouldn't happen, especially the way I wash, but it does..).

Note that not *everybody* has had such steller results with the FK1000P in the winter..."YMMV!" always applies. But it's the reason I'm selling off my stash of M16 and 476S.
 
I've been using FK1000p as my go-to wheel sealant for years, but with all the comments recently, I gave it a shot as my winter sealant this year, layered over DG105/601, replacing the Collinite products I've used in winters past. So far, I'm well pleased, but I noticed a few incompatibility issues I'll pass along just as an FYI. My normal cold weather routine is an indoor rinseless wash every Saturday morning before I start work. Two weeks ago, I used UWW+ for both a presoak spray and wash solution. My presoak left white waterspots on my black paint that the wash didn't dissolve. Scared me a bit. Fortunately, I had some UWW+ in WW dilution and that cleaned it up fine. Other washes have been with DG Rinseless and Meg's D114. No problem with either. It also doesn't like all my drying aids. Meg's UQW, DG Aquawax, DG FCS all work fine, but Britemax Spray n' Shine had a nasty streaking problem. I still like the FK, but sometimes it takes a little trial and error to find out what plays well with what.
I'm so accustomed to the Collinites being compatible with about anything that it took me by surprise.

Bill
 
just picked up some 1000p as wheel wax, it was voted 2nd on a german forum this year. of course a wheel coating placed in 1st

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Billy Jack said:
I've been using FK1000p as my go-to wheel sealant for years, but with all the comments recently, I gave it a shot as my winter sealant this year, layered over DG105/601, replacing the Collinite products I've used in winters past. So far, I'm well pleased, but I noticed a few incompatibility issues I'll pass along just as an FYI. My normal cold weather routine is an indoor rinseless wash every Saturday morning before I start work. Two weeks ago, I used UWW+ for both a presoak spray and wash solution. My presoak left white waterspots on my black paint that the wash didn't dissolve. Scared me a bit. Fortunately, I had some UWW+ in WW dilution and that cleaned it up fine. Other washes have been with DG Rinseless and Meg's D114. No problem with either. It also doesn't like all my drying aids. Meg's UQW, DG Aquawax, DG FCS all work fine, but Britemax Spray n' Shine had a nasty streaking problem. I still like the FK, but sometimes it takes a little trial and error to find out what plays well with what.
I'm so accustomed to the Collinites being compatible with about anything that it took me by surprise.

Bill
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Very strange--I've had FK1000 on since last July (two coats in July and one in October on just a polished surface) and have used UWW+ with no problems what so ever.
 
pwaug said:
Very strange--I've had FK1000 on since last July (two coats in July and one in October on just a polished surface) and have used UWW+ with no problems what so ever.
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Very strange indeed. That's why I posted. My wash routine during the colder months is so consistent, every Saturday morning, presoak with a light mist followed by a rinseless wash using a Meguiar's MF mitt. At first I thought it was due to the warmth of the hood, but the trunk lid had the same white spotted film. I did not presoak the roof and had no spotting there, so it was somehow related to the UWW presoak on the FK. I tried FK previously on both my red metallic cars and didn't like the look, even though it was near bulletproof, so it's been reserved for use as a wheel sealant for the past few years, a role in which it absolutely excels. I've been happy with FK's performance on my black DD this winter, so I'll just avoid UWW+ in my rinseless bucket. It isn't like I have no choices, as I also have ONR, DG and D114 on the rinseless shelf and all have worked fine with the FK.

Bill
 
Bill--do you think the layering over 105/601 could have anything to do with it?? As I mentioned my coats are all pure FK1000--no other products under it. Although I don't pre-soak--if the car is really dirty I'll give it a quick PW before the rinseless, but otherwise I just do a straight rinseless (I do use allot of product in this case with a grout sponge inside of a MF mitt)
 
I hardly ever apply FK1000P to bare paint; there's almost always something else on there first (though I do sometimes apply it to bare wheels).

IME if/when FK1000P bonds OK to an underlying product (and it seems to bond just fine to everything I've tried it over), then the underlying product has zero effect on the FK1000P's performance/durability.

As I do FK1000P on bare/not wheels, I've been able to compare the two approaches and I've never discerned any difference in durability/performance.

I had the same experience with Collinite, even having underlying-product oils dissipate (making for a poor appearance) without compromising the performance of the Collinite in any way.

Sorta goes against the Conventional Wisdom regarding underlying products and LSP performance, but that's how it works for me. But OTOH, YMMV since there are a whole lotta variables in play here, and I've given some thought to what I've been willing to try for my combos.
 
Accumulator, would you mind going a bit more in depth with what you have / like layering on first. (You may have previously and i missed it or just don't remember) I would be intersted to hear what you feel like you are getting out of it? I have to say i have been enjoying my 2 coats of fk so far this winter, thank you for the suggestion. I'm excited for my first nasty winter wash up here this weekend, its supposed to reach the 50s here in ohio.
 
edb- Well, so far the Ohio winter in my area has been awfully mild...though Accumulatorette's A8 seems to need washed pretty often anyhow.

Unless I've done some ultra-Autopian burnishing with the Cyclo and a Finishing Polish, I generally use some kind of AIO or leaves-stuff-behind polish for my penultimate step. That gets topped with a few layers of FK1000P.

Argument: You shouldn't need something like that if you did your Final Polishing correctly!

Response: If I see a visible improvement, and like both the process and the results, then I'll stick with what works for me.

Most recently I finished out *very* well with a finishing pad and HD Polish. Many would say I burnished/jeweled it. Looked great. Looked *better* when I went back over it with 1Z WaxPolishSoft (which I then topped with FK1000P).

It's a fine line between AIO and leaves-stuff-behind Polish, and IMO it's goofy to distinquish between the two in a big way. But anyhow, stuff I've used prior to FK1000P:
-KAIO
-ZAIO
-Autoglym SRP
-1Z Pro MP
-1Z WaxPolishSoft

It's sorta like using M16 over top of M80, which I did a lot of back in the day.
 
pwaug said:
Bill--do you think the layering over 105/601 could have anything to do with it?? As I mentioned my coats are all pure FK1000--no other products under it. Although I don't pre-soak--if the car is really dirty I'll give it a quick PW before the rinseless, but otherwise I just do a straight rinseless (I do use allot of product in this case with a grout sponge inside of a MF mitt)[/QUOTE
It's been my experience that in most cases of layering, the topcoat defines the characteristics. I'm not about to lose any sleep over it. From looking at the spots and film I had, I'll just avoid using Ultima as a presoak or rinseless with FK. As I said, I've got enough other stuff on the shelves that's it's no inconvenience. Once the weather gets better here in the 'Burgh, I'll be doing my spring polish anyway and I'm itching to take a test drive with my new PB Natty's black.

Bill
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