FK1000p Questions

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pwaug

New member
Taking advantage of the 25% off and free shipping today and plan to order a tub of FK1000p.


 


I know if I put it on thin I shouldn't have problems buffing off after hazing, but should I order some FK425 just in case??


 


Also, will the 1000p stain trim?  Can I just wipe of immediately if I should get it on the pebble grain trim that runs compeletely around the bottom of my car?  How about smooth plastic trim??
 
425 is a nice detail spray.


 


Keep off of grained trim with it.


 


I just finished my second coat for winter.  
 
Bought the 1000p mainly for my next full detail in the spring, but couldn't resist trying it out so gave the hood a coat the other day.   There is a month old coat of DG105/601 on the car.  Applied a thin coat by hand with a B&S Red hand applicator, allowed it to sit for about 90 minutes since it was only 55 in the garage and then buffed off.  Very easy to remove so I don't understand reports of it being a bear to get off.   Didn't notice much difference in the look compared to the DG105. 
 
One thing I noticed was the 1000p has lost its beading in 6 weeks .. mostly after I used CG car wash at the prescribed mtce ratio .. dunno if I point at the 1000p or the wash.
 
pwaug said:
Bought the 1000p mainly for my next full detail in the spring, but couldn't resist trying it out so gave the hood a coat the other day.   There is a month old coat of DG105/601 on the car.  Applied a thin coat by hand with a B&S Red hand applicator, allowed it to sit for about 90 minutes since it was only 55 in the garage and then buffed off.  Very easy to remove so I don't understand reports of it being a bear to get off.   Didn't notice much difference in the look compared to the DG105. 
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No issues here either after 17 + cars
 
Jesstzn- Aw man, after my hard-sell I'll feel bad if it isn't durable for you!  Six weeks?!? 


 


Funny how experiences with FK1000P differ.  I get months and months of beading...over a year isn't uncommon by any means and I'm talking a used-hard daily driver (winter/etc.) and having small/tight/spherical beads too.  I generally go for three layers, applying after each of a series of washes and maybe that helps with the durability.


 


Note that I wash with Griot's Car Wash, in a pretty strong mix and I basically "wash the car three or more times" each time I wash (given my wash method).  The Griot's seems to have basically zero effect on the FK1000P.  I think I'll try the HD Pink shampoo soon, we'll see if that's any different in this regard (sure hope not!).


 


I find the look sometimes changes a day or three after application, but the diff is subtle.


 


I've used it on textured trim (yeah, intentionally!) but "Don't try this at home, kids!" because when it goes wrong you'll have a real issue on your hands.


 


I simply love FK425 as a QD for FK1000P, but I also like FK146 (used it on the FK1000P'ed Tahoe yesterday).  Note that Ron Ketcham, who knows a lot more about FK stuff than I do, does *NOT* like FK146, so opinions about it certainly differ.
 
Accumulator said:
  I think I'll try the HD Pink shampoo soon,


 


 


 
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Will be interested in your opinion so let us know what you think after you give it a try!!!!
 
Well, it might be a little while as I still have a few gallons of the Griot's.  But then I wash more frequently in the Winter and doing the Tahoe (my way) does use a *LOT* of shampoo (maybe a pint or more!).
 
Funny thing is is for years I have used , yes believe it " Turtle Wax " wash soap in the gal for $5 bottles . Maybe the beading is a little different after a CG wash . I use a 2.5 gal pail and not even a cap of concentrate. Our water isn't very hard up here and I find the CG sudses but not thick suds. BTW I bought 2 different gallon jugs of the CG soap. Neither seem to have the lubricity of the TW soap either. I am hoping for a semi warm day and I'll reseal the roof .. 1/2 with 1000P and the other with #21 just to see if its the soap either removing it or maybe it was the TW soap wax content helping the beading ... that make sense?
 
Jesstzn- Is it just a diff in beading?  My FK1000P is also slick/etc. after lots of washes.


 


I used the TW "Zip" wash back before I got all nutty about this stuff, and its lubricity wasn't even close to stuff like Griot's or M62.  But that was a *long* time ago...


 


Heh heh, every time I start thinking seriously about trying something other than the GG (such as the Pink) I wonder about stripping the FK1000P; sure don't want to do that!  I do think the GG must be contributing to how long my LSPs last, it sure seems easy on 'em.
 
I just hosed off the FK1000P/FK146'ed Tahoe yesterday.  It was *coated* with salt/dirt/yuck, but a regular hosing off (softened water, no powerwasher) followed by a DI rinse has it looking incredibly good for a few-minutes effort.
 
I like to use the FK2180 over the 1000. I use the FK2180 in the winter months because of it's ability to go on and come off nice in lower temps. It is easy to apply and easy to remove. Although, not as durable as the 1000, I think it leaves a slightly slicker and glossier finish. 2180 is also easy to apply in direct sunlight if needed. Did a test on it, and it worked in direct sunlight just as good as the Gloss-It products work in direct sunlight. Although, that being said, my go to product for durability and looks is still  Autoglym EGP and SRP. Excellent durability and amazing looks, especially on metallic paints, IMO.
 
Street5927- I was a *big* fan of the AutoGlym SRP for a long time, yeah, good stuff all right and it's still the base-layer product for my Jag.  I never tried their EGP though. 
 
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