FK1000P--How Do I Use This Stuff?--Any advice, tips, etc?

[globe9]

I got some Finish Kare 1000P based on the advice and recommendations of some of the more experienced board members here. Well it came in yesterday and I plan on applying it this weekend.

I'm not familiar with this paste wax and was hoping I could get some instructions, advice, and tips.



I have a Black Nissan Rogue. I've only used AG HD Wax on it for the year I've had it.



I also got some Griot's Car Wash. So I plan on washing with the Griot's Car Wash first. Normally I use Aquawax when drying the car to help eliminate the water spots(the car dries faster than I can dry it down here in NOLA). I'm assuming I shouldn't use Aquawax this time, since I plan on applying the FK1000P after the wash.



Also, should I strip the AG HD wax that may still be on there(I last waxed it around the end of February). If so, should I just use Dawn soap? Will this be necessary?



Ok, so onto applying the FK1000P. Am I correct in thinking that I should apply this VERY thin. Like as thin as I can get? Also, do I do one panel at a time? Bascially apply a thin coat to one section, allow to haze, and then buff off? Or do I apply to the entire car first and then buff off?

Will it remove easily? I know it stains trim, so I have to be VERY careful around the black trim pieces, silver emblems, etc.



Any advice on application? I will be applying by hand. Should I apply in small circular motion while applying some pressure?



Also, I jave to apply in direct sunlight. I don't have a garage, carport, or any kind of cover. I was planning on either doing this very early in the morning or more likely, late in the afternoon when the sun isn't too bad. It's already in the 80's here.



Sorry for the long post. Just want to make sure I do this right and to the best of my ability and I trust and appreciate ya'lls advice.



Anything else, please mention it. Thanks!

 

[Accumulator]

I also got some Griot's Car Wash. So I plan on washing with the Griot's Car Wash first. Normally I use Aquawax when drying the car to help eliminate the water spots(the car dries faster than I can dry it down here in NOLA). I'm assuming I shouldn't use Aquawax this time, since I plan on applying the FK1000P after the wash...

I think that's a safe assumption; don't risk messing with the FK1000P's bonding. BUT...see below for more on this.

Also, should I strip the AG HD wax that may still be on there(I last waxed it around the end of February). If so, should I just use Dawn soap? Will this be necessary?

I would strip it. I dunno if I'd do a Dawn wash for that, but if you do I'd do a regular wash first (Dawn lacks lubricity and that makes it risky marring-wise as grit might scratch that otherwise wouldn't).



But what I'd really do is some kind of paint cleaning. Yeah, I know...one more step and what a PIA, but I really would. Something quick, easy, and sealant-friendly like KAIO. That'll make the whole thing go a lot better IMO.

Ok, so onto applying the FK1000P. Am I correct in thinking that I should apply this VERY thin. Like as thin as I can get? Also, do I do one panel at a time? Bascially apply a thin coat to one section, allow to haze, and then buff off? Or do I apply to the entire car first and then buff off?...Any advice on application? I will be applying by hand. Should I apply in small circular motion while applying some pressure?

I've done it both ways with no problems. Yeah, thin as you can get it, but FK1000P is sometimes a "hard paste product" so the uber-thin thing can be easier said than done. My last tin was softer, so maybe it just varies :nixweiss



If it's really hard, consider slightly dampening your applicator with FK425 (if you have it). No, it doesn't compromise the durability IME.



Circular motions with a bit of pressure oughta work fine. It's not a product I wipe on *SUPER* lightly like a liquid, that's for sure.

Will it remove easily? I know it stains trim, so I have to be VERY careful around the black trim pieces, silver emblems, etc.

I think it buffs off easily, but maybe that's just me :think: I've also used it on trim without staining, but a) you gotta be *really* thin so there's no residue stuck in the texture, and b) you gotta wipe-on-wipe-off pretty fast. There's not much margin for error so maybe you oughta just keep it off it after all.

Sorry for the long post. Just want to make sure I do this right and to the best of my ability and I trust and appreciate ya'lls advice.

Hey, that's not too long, good Qs and you explained your situation well. I don't expect any problems, but do a section and then inspect the [heck] out of it to make sure everything's OK.

Anything else, please mention it.

I wouldn't try to do another coat until after the next (regularly scheduled) wash lest you risk pseudo-holograms.

 

[globe9]

Thanks so much for the advice and tips Accumulator! I really do appreciate it.



KAIO is Klasse all in one right? I'm not sure I can get this locally. Does anyone know a national retailer(Pep Boys, CarQuest, Advance Auto, Autozone, Napa, etc) that might sell that?



In the absence of getting that(If I have to order it, I probably won't be able to do this this coming weekend)....is there another product I can use(more easily found locally) that will also accomplish stripping any AG HD wax that may be left on the car.



Also, if I do get my hands on KAIO, this means I can use the Griots wash, then dry, then apply the KAIO and then apply the FK1000P?



Thanks again, just making sure. Since I'm going to be doing so much work to the car, I want to make sure I'm doing it right.



Oh and Accumulator I don't have any FK425, but I do have Meg's Ultimate Detailer and DG Aquawax. Would either of those work?



LOL, now that I'm thinking about it. Maybe I should clay too. I've never worked with clay before. From what I understand, I spray a quick detailer(would the Meg's work here?) on the area to be clayed. This would be a smallish area right? Then how do I apply the clay? Just rub it on the car? Or do I do more of a dab on the paint, push down hard and lift up? Which clay would be best(again found locally) Meg's, etc?



Thanks!!!!!

 

[akimel]

If you can't find KAIO, you might try looking for Duragloss 501. Like KAIO, it too is a cleaner sealant and should work well with FK 1000p. But I imagine that claying the car would effectively remove any remaining wax on the paint and well prepare it for the 1000p.



I have found 1000p to be easy to apply and buff off. It is a hard wax, but I don't think you will find it difficult to get it onto the foam applicator and then onto the paint. I apply it to the entire car and allow it to dry to a haze and then buff off. I had no problems whatsoever. On the advice of both Bence and the manufacturer, I waited 18+ hours before applying the second coat.



Don't make a quick judgment about the looks. It takes a couple of days for the sealant to take on its signature look.



And I think you'll be very pleased with its durability.

 

[Accumulator]

Also, if I do get my hands on KAIO, this means I can use the Griots wash, then dry, then apply the KAIO and then apply the FK1000P?

Right. You'd do the same if you go with the DuraGloss stuff.

Oh and Accumulator I don't have any FK425, but I do have Meg's Ultimate Detailer and DG Aquawax. Would either of those work?

I wouldn't use either of those for the "dampen the applicator" thing. But I doubt you'll need to do that anyhow.

LOL, now that I'm thinking about it. Maybe I should clay too. I've never worked with clay before. From what I understand, I spray a quick detailer(would the Meg's work here?) on the area to be clayed. This would be a smallish area right? Then how do I apply the clay? Just rub it on the car? Or do I do more of a dab on the paint, push down hard and lift up? Which clay would be best(again found locally) Meg's, etc?

Noting that I'm (usually) a big proponent of claying, since you've already polished I.m not sure whether you oughta clay at this time. It's quite possible that you will instill some (hopefully mild) marring. Eh...I guess it's more of my Autopian Heresy, but I'd say to skip the claying this time. It's not like we didn't get by just fine without clay for decades, and this is a new black vehicle, and...eh, it'd just be opening a potential can of worms.



Claying in a nutshell:

-tear claybar into a few smaller pieces, use one at a time

-spritz on QD/clay lube

-flatten clay and then rub gently on the lubed area, letting the clay glide along on a film of lube (clay shouldn't actually contact the paint)

-stop to inspect/knead/replace clay frequently; as it picks up contaminants it basically turns into sandpaper (!)

-wash clayed area to remove residual clay and lube.

If you can't find KAIO, you might try looking for Duragloss 501...

Is DG 501 trim-friendly the way KAIO is?

On the advice of both Bence and the manufacturer, I waited 18+ hours before applying the second coat.

That wasn't long enough for me (nice warm shop too :think: ), I got those pseudo-holograms even when I waited more than a day. The experience has made me awfully nervous about the whole layering interval thing; now I wait for at least a week, or at least until after it's done its "change as it cures" that you alluded to. Fortunately, one coat of FK1000P protects just fine, so IMO it's not like you're cutting corners by not layering right away.

 

[akimel]

Is DG 501 trim-friendly the way KAIO is?

I don't know. Except for UPGP and UQW, I don't apply my waxes and sealants on my trim. I don't have your boldness.

That wasn't long enough for me (nice warm shop too :think: ), I got those pseudo-holograms even when I waited more than a day. The experience has made me awfully nervous about the whole layering interval thing; now I wait for at least a week, or at least until after it's done its "change as it cures" that you alluded to. Fortunately, one coat of FK1000P protects just fine, so IMO it's not like you're cutting corners by not layering right away.

I have begun to wonder whether waiting until the next wash might not be a good practice for most waxes and sealants, especially on my black car. Just a wondering.

 

[Accumulator]

I don't know. Except for UPGP and UQW, I don't apply my waxes and sealants on my trim. I don't have your boldness.

Heh heh, "boldness" is a nice, polite way to put it :chuckle: I can think of other words when it comes to applying such stuff to black trim!



Imagine how I felt when I put 476S on the Volvo's rubber and plastic trim :nervous2: ....hey, "live to tell", right?



I took the black plastic grille off my Crown Vic (wanted a chrome one) and I plan to use it for such testing in the future, at least if I mess that up it won't be a biggie.

I have begun to wonder whether waiting until the next wash might not be a good practice for most waxes and sealants, especially on my black car. Just a wondering.

Yeah, it was on the Carbon Metallic Yukon XLD that I got those pseudo-holograms, and sorting out something that big wasn't fun. Other than KSG and my 845/476S combo, I *always* wait for the subsequent layers/applications. Once bitten and all that...

 

[Striker]

Accumulator,



How much prep work would I need with the following scenario, assuming I wanna apply some 1000P:



Brand new car, previously clayed and currently has two coats of Zaino (Z2,Z5) Would I compromise the FK by simply applying it over the Zaino?

 

[imported_Bert]

Accumulator,



How much prep work would I need with the following scenario, assuming I wanna apply some 1000P:



Brand new car, previously clayed and currently has two coats of Zaino (Z2,Z5) Would I compromise the FK by simply applying it over the Zaino?

You could apply it over the Z2, Z5 without problems. I generally like to strip the former LSP off and work on a fresh surface but that is not mandatory, just my personal preference.

 

[globe9]

Ok, so I just bought some KAIO from autogeek. I won't be able to detail the Rogue this weekend, but thats ok. I read about the KAIO and it sounds super easy to use. Seemed worth it to me

Unfortunately, I bought about 5 other things too LOL My GF who would still be using Dawn on her 2010 Dark Blue F-150(and NOT drying when its done, but just taking it for a spin around the block) if I didn't teach her a thing or two about detailing, thinks I'm CRAZY. I told her she should read some of the posts on here and she'd see what crazy about detailing a car is LOL



1. So I got the KAIO(the small size for now...if I like it, I'll get the next bigger size b/c the GF who makes fun of me, will all of a sudden be using my stuff I know).

2. A Grit Guard---never did pick one of these up

3. A lambswool mitt--the MF one I have now is about done and I figured it was time for a new one. I really wanted that Dodo Juice Wookie's Fist, but for $35, I figured maybe I'll ask the GF for that for Xmas and she'll really think I'm nuts.

4. Some Griot's Garage New Car Scent

5. A couple of new MF's

6. Free Sample of Wolfgang Deep Gloss Spritz(unfortunately I didn't know about their free sample with every order and missed out on last week's order



Will be planning a long day of detailing next weekend. I can't wait!

 

[Accumulator]

globe9- Since you have the KAIO I'd go ahead and use it. But I'll defer to Bert's opinion that the FK1000P would be OK over top of the Zaino. FK1000P works OK over stuff like Kaio/Zaio/SRP so I guess it oughta work fine over Zaino's "regular polishes" (i.e., sealants) too.



Heh heh, if you detail that monster of a pickup for her, maybe your GF will better appreciate the whole detailing thing I know my wife has come to appreciate such stuff; she's almost as nutty about her A8 as I am about my vehicles!

 

[globe9]

globe9- Since you have the KAIO I'd go ahead and use it. But I'll defer to Bert's opinion that the FK1000P would be OK over top of the Zaino. FK1000P works OK over stuff like Kaio/Zaio/SRP so I guess it oughta work fine over Zaino's "regular polishes" (i.e., sealants) too.



I'm a little confused...I don't have any Zaino. I have a coat of AG HD on the Rogue now...I put it on around the end of February

My plan is to wash with the Griot's Wash. Dry it. Apply the KAIO. Then apply the FK1000P. Is this ok? Thanks again!



.Heh heh, if you detail that monster of a pickup for her, maybe your GF will better appreciate the whole detailing thing I know my wife has come to appreciate such stuff; she's almost as nutty about her A8 as I am about my vehicles!

Thanks again! I really appreciate all of the advice and tips. It really can get quite confusing and with all of the products out there, I was making myself nuts!

 

[Accumulator]

globe9- Sorry, I was getting you mixed up with Sriker Sheesh....but the KAIO will work fine as a base for FK1000P and so will most "not too slick" sealants. I only added that "not too slick" bit because I could imagine it not bonding well to something like fresh UPP, but I can't say for sure.



And yeah, it's easy to get overwhelmed, between all the products on the market and all the opinions/advice here and elsewhere on the net!

 

[nyakerz]

Accumulator, do you consider Megs NXT Tech Wax 2.0 as a slick wax? =D

 

[Accumulator]

Accumulator, do you consider Megs NXT Tech Wax 2.0 as a slick wax? =D

I can't *really* say as I've only used it once (pal from the Jag Club who wanted it on his car), so :nixweiss



But probably not, at least in this context.

 

[jr_mints1]

I have used FK1000p and I was totally underwhelmed. Application was easy but it did not last anywhere near as long as people have stated on this site. I used the the FK2180 as a sealer and then applied the 1000 and it quit beading withing six weeks in moderate Texas fall weather. For me, any Collinite product will blow away the FK1000p, thats been my experience. Don't mean to rain on your parade as you will probably get better results but I'm not a believer.

 

[Accumulator]

jr_mints- No worries, I don't take your experience as an :argue or anything, I'm just really



Hey, what you exerienced first-hand is what counts, it's just *so* 100% opposite of my experiences that I'm really surprised. Well, maybe not 100% opposite after all, see below...



On my Tahoe, I did one coat back in December, and added a second one in January, and it's still in just-LSPed condition. Maybe your experience is similar to mine on that vehicle...it did seem to need that second coat kinda soon, but since then it's been wearing like iron. I generally do at least two coats of any sealant (spaced well apart in the case of FK1000P), and/but yeah...for one-coat protection Collinite is really good.

 

[globe9]

Alright, the KAIO came in the mail yesterday.



I have a couple more questions:



What's the best way to apply the KAIO? From reading the directions, it seems pretty easy. It seems to be a basic wipe on, wipe off application. Am I correct in this? Will it really remove small scratches and swirls? Do I need to do any buffing for this? Or is it still wipe on and off? Should I use a circular pattern when applying to the paint and then buffing off, or more of a side to side? I always tend to do side to side to help minimize swirls with almost anything that touches my paint(i go side to side when washing and when applying wax).



Is this also one of those, the thinner the better type of products? I got the smallest size at about $15.00....how long should that last? Do I need a lot of product...I have a mid-size crossover(Nissan Rogue in Wicked Black).



Also, how long after applying the KAIO should I wait before applying the FK1000P? Can I do it immediately after? If I have to wait a considerable amount of time, I may have to wash the car again before applying the FK1000P...would this be ok? The car is kept outside(no garage or cover), so I'd be afraid of dust, etc that easily gets on the car while just sitting there in the driveway.



Again, thanks for all of the advice. I can't wait to begin using these new products on my Rogue.

 

[Accumulator]

Alright, the KAIO came in the mail yesterday.



I have a couple more questions:



What's the best way to apply the KAIO? From reading the directions, it seems pretty easy. It seems to be a basic wipe on, wipe off application. Am I correct in this?

Yes. You can work it longer/more aggressively for better cleaning if needed. Some let it set up before buffing it off but I found it a huge PIA that way. Oh, and use a *slightly* damp (with water) applicator. If you do it by PC I'd use speed 3-4.

Will it really remove small scratches and swirls?

Not on any paint I've used it on.

Do I need to do any buffing for this? Or is it still wipe on and off?

To make it act more aggressive, use it more aggressively. But don't try to force it to do stuff it just won't do.

Should I use a circular pattern when applying to the paint and then buffing off, or more of a side to side? I always tend to do side to side to help minimize swirls with almost anything that touches my paint(i go side to side when washing and when applying wax).

Straight lines just make any marring that happens less obvious because of the lessened "optimal viewing angle" of a straight-line scratch. You shouldn't have *ANY* marring resulting from waxing, AIOing, etc. anyhow. Note that people use PCs/etc. for this stuff and those sure don't move in straight lines I always recommend that people use whatever motion is most comfortable for them as IMO that'll make it less likely that fatigue/etc. will result in a poor job. And circular motions generally result in better overlapping/more uniform application anyhow (at least IMO).

Is this also one of those, the thinner the better type of products?

Excess is just wasted product and effort. Not the same as "gotta apply thin!" products, but why make it hard on yourself

I got the smallest size at about $15.00....how long should that last? Do I need a lot of product...I have a mid-size crossover(Nissan Rogue in Wicked Black).

You could do that Rogue so many times you'll forget how many before you run out, even if you knock it over and spill a lot.

Also, how long after applying the KAIO should I wait before applying the FK1000P? Can I do it immediately after?

No need to wait. If the FK1000P is done "too soon" it might take off whatever the KAIO leaves behind, but that "whatever" is so minimal that it doesn't matter anyhow. Despite the name and ad-copy BS, KAIO is, IME, really just a paint cleaner for all practical purposes.

 

[globe9]

I finally got to use the FK1000P yesterday and all I can say is WOW! I'm impressed. My black car looks amazing! It's VERY windy down here today and after coming out of work, where my car sat for 8 hours outside, across from a gravel lot, there was NO dust on the Rogue at all.

I found applying it and taking it off slightly easier than using my previous wax which was AG HD wax.



I did have some trouble with the KAIO. Maybe I wasn't doing it right though. I dampened a clean MF and applied a small amount of KAIO to the MF and then applied a very small amount to a section of the hood. I probably let it sit for a minute and then when I came back to wipe it off, it didn't seem like it was coming off very well. It seemed very streaky. I just wasn't happy with it and abandoned it after the next hood section and just used the FK1000P without using the KAIO on the rest of the car. I'm sure it was a user error I'll youtube it or something so I can see someone applying it to see what I was doing wrong.



Overall though I'm very happy. That FK1000P is some amazing stuff!!



Oh btw, Accumulator--do you think I should do a 2nd coat of the FK1000P next weekend? Will I gain more slickness, durability etc? Or will 1 coat be fine ya think? I'm hoping to not have to wax again till Sept. or Oct or so(I will if I have to, but the summers are brutal down here and I dread waxing the Rogue in 100+degree heat with 90%humidity.)

Thanks for the recommendations though. I don't think I'll ever use anything else