FK1000p Beginner questions

Accumulator said:
Eh, I never LSP glass and couldn`t care less if my glass beads or not so I wouldn`t/don`t do it either. But then I do my glass very frequently even though my vehicles are all garaged and basically pampered. Doubt I ever go a week without cleaning at least the windshield and might do it daily. But that`s just me...if you don`t care, and if your vision isn`t compromised, then why bother?

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No question, those areas can be a challenge to do, takes some time and effort. That said, I can`t imagine why you`d get LSP on surfaces where you don`t want it nor why there would be any "wearing down of the paint". Some vehicles are more prone to rust than others, but IME keeping everything clean and well-LSPed helps to significantly minimize that; note that my vehicles are OK in this regard despite being pretty old and subjected to Ohio winters. Yeah, doing some stuff can take a *LONG* time but IME it doesn`t need done very often.
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I only applied on glass to prevent water marks/spots. It does absolutely nothing, they still appear. Only drying properly prevents water marks.

Applying this sealant in door jams always gets some in the tight gaps where the metal of door skin folds. It`s hard to remove & constant wiping away will probably wear down clear coat there. Some areas it looks pretty thin, ya know factory paint jobs.
 
Manix- Yeah, many jambs/etc. aren`t even clearcoated...but I`ve never had any issues from rubbing/etc. as long as I wasn`t using an abrasive polish. Eh, I suspect we`re just on different wavelengths as when I get a vehicle I`ll spend *days* (and I mean literally multiples of 24 hours) getting all those areas as good as I can *one time* and then I just maintain them basically forever. But as I keep posting, that`s just me.

Tip anyway: For the crimped/folded areas, use less product and if it`s still a problem them buff off before it fully dries. No no no..you won`t wear through the thin paint as long as 1) it`s clean, 2) you use nonabrasive products like KAIO and FK1000P, and 3) you use a good (and clean) MF. Get two-four coats of FK1000P on there and then just maintain with something like IUDJ and you oughta be good for years.
 
One week update:

Slickness and beads - oh my. The car saw some rain today for the first time since the procedure last Friday. At 25mph all the water flew off the hood - cool.

Washed it with PB SSS and applied another thin coat of FK1000p. More applicator dragging than the first application. I would almost say uncomfortably so at times. Hopefully there was no marring. Removal was a breeze again. Cure time around 10 minutes (apply to whole car, putz around with something for a minute, start buffing off).
 
Surly- Ah, interesting about the increased applicator drag, I would`ve thought it`d drag *less* since there`s already a coat on there. Hmmm...wonder if the PB SSS somehow factors in. Glad it buffed off easily enough, sounds like you`re doing it nice and thin.

And yeah, the hydrophobic/self-cleaning/etc. stuff is pretty nice all right, lets me get by with fewer washes.
 
Surly said:
One week update:

Slickness and beads - oh my. The car saw some rain today for the first time since the procedure last Friday. At 25mph all the water flew off the hood - cool.

Washed it with PB SSS and applied another thin coat of FK1000p. More applicator dragging than the first application. I would almost say uncomfortably so at times. Hopefully there was no marring. Removal was a breeze again. Cure time around 10 minutes (apply to whole car, putz around with something for a minute, start buffing off).
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The first time I applied a second coat of 1000 it also felt the applicator was dragging on the paint. After a little investigation and experimentation it turns out it wasn`t really dragging, but if the applicator didn`t have an even coating of 1000 on it the applicator was actually skipping sections on the paint. Once I spread an even/thin layer of 1000 on the entire surface of the applicator pad the feeling of dragging stopped.
 
pwaug- Ah, maybe that was it. Heh heh, maybe I oughta dial back my "thin thin thin" rants lest people not even prime the applicator sufficiently!
 
Accumulator said:
Surly- Ah, interesting about the increased applicator drag, I would`ve thought it`d drag *less* since there`s already a coat on there. Hmmm...wonder if the PB SSS somehow factors in. Glad it buffed off easily enough, sounds like you`re doing it nice and thin.

And yeah, the hydrophobic/self-cleaning/etc. stuff is pretty nice all right, lets me get by with fewer washes.
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I was also wondering about the PB SSS - it`s supposed to rinse clean, not contain any gloss enhancers etc... I admit it`s the first time I`ve used it. I used to use Meguiar`s Gold Class, and have used CG Citrus Wash`n`Gloss a few times but obviously I didn`t want gloss enhancers on this wash.

There was definitely considerably more drag. I used the same applicator as the first coat which was sealed in a zip lock. I know we`re all about "applying thin" but it was still primed from the first application. It`s a black applicator and product was visible on it. I unexpectedly didn`t end up driving my car anywhere this weekend so I haven`t seen it outside and in the sunlight yet to see if there`s any marring. Hope not. FWIW it was significantly cooler than on my big detail day a week before.

Might try for a third coat this upcoming weekend. My plan is for this to make it through most of the winter.
 
Surly- As long as the surface was clean, I wouldn`t worry about marring from the wax application.

Just FWIW, thinking about your not wanting any gloss enhancers/etc. on there when you did the second coat...I had wondered whether using IUDJ before applying FK1000P might somehow mess with it. So far so good, no evidence that it causes any problems at all.

If there are any such things in my Griot`s + 3D mix, they don`t cause issues either. Just sayin`...in part I guess because the only one of your shampoos that I`ve used (the Gold Class) is something I don`t care for.
 
Just another data point out there. My roof was needing some claying, so I did a quick clay using Last Touch as lube. As usual, I threw on a coat of something on top. This time it was FK1000P. I applied on 8/28, today it was completely dead when I washed it. The water just did that ugly flat sheeting. Guess FK does not like Meguiars! The hood which has had FK on it since early August (and no clay) was doing just fine.
 
Dan- Ah, interesting! That`s a good comparison between the roof and the hood...does lend credence to the Last Touch messing with it somehow.
 
Hopefully I`ll be working on my Dads white Dodge Ram in the next couple of weeks, minor paint correction and going to top with 2 coats of FK1000 that should help against Northeast Ohio winter. Looking forward to seeing results of FK1000 on white. Might try using my pc or rupes mini on such large vehicle.
 
Hi. Been pretty much keeping my car up with help from the forum. Thanks! I bought FK1000p for winter and plan on first claying and polishing with some Total Polish and Seal that I have sitting around. My question is how long should I wait after applying the Total Polish and Seal before I can apply the FK1000p. My gut tells me to wait at least 12 hours. Thanks for your help.:)
 
basicT said:
how long should I wait after applying the Total Polish and Seal before I can apply the FK1000p. My gut tells me to wait at least 12 hours...
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Noting that I don`t know from TP&S. I`d wait about 24 hours but eh...that`s probably just the inclination to go with what appeals emotionally..."wait a day between coats" and all that.

I haven`t found the solvents/etc. in FK1000P to be all that much of an issue with regard to underlying products, but I always wait a day or so too.
 
Thank you Mr. Accumulator. I have learned alot over the years from your posts as I am sure many others have too.
 
Just following up. I guess I`m at about 6 weeks since first application, 4 weeks since the second application. The car has seen very little rain (uncharacteristically little) and I`ve only washed it 2-3 times too. Parked outside at a commuter train lot 3-4 out of 5 days per week for work, garaged otherwise.

It stays looking pretty clean, but that`s probably more the colour than the LSP ;)

I`ve noticed a reduction in slickness and change in beading behaviour. When I first encountered rain, it took almost nothing (15-20mph or light braking) and the water became a giant single blob on the hood and rolled off. Beads were prominent. Paint felt slick. This past week, the beads seem small, stay put and go nowhere when driving in the rain and the paint doesn`t feel as slick.

I haven`t done anything but hand wash in my driveway - once or twice with CG Citrus wash-n-gloss, one with PB SSS. I would be shocked if the FK1000p was "going away" already. P21S Concours lasted way longer than this, and I haven`t exposed the paint to hardly anything but sun and dust (and it`s almost November on top of being in Canada - so that`s not a challenge for an LSP).

I have a theory that perhaps when I first encountered rain the car was spotless, and last week it was dirty underneath the rain. Perhaps that eliminated the one-giant-bead behaviour on the hood. Not feeling as slick after a wash would have to mean fallout? It doesn`t feel rough, just not slick.

Anyways - I`m hoping to throw one more coat on in the next week or so and hopefully make it through winter. My winter wheels have GTechniq C5 (and new Hakkapeliitta R2s) on them and the windshield has Forte. Still want to get XPel or similar on my front bumper. Fingers crossed for a good winter.
 
I`ve had similar issues with FK1000P. Sometimes it lasts a long time (3+ months), other times, poof, its gone after a couple of washes. Once the slickness is gone, its pretty much done for.
 
Always interested to hear about experiences with FK1000P, especially when those experiences differ from mine.

I wonder if some shampoos are a lot harder on it than my GG:3D mix, or whether my vehicles are just *that* pampered. I mean...if I only got 3 months out of it (let alone less) I`d be rethinking my advocacy of the stuff and revisiting KSGx6.
 
basicT said:
Hi. Been pretty much keeping my car up with help from the forum. Thanks! I bought FK1000p for winter and plan on first claying and polishing with some Total Polish and Seal that I have sitting around. My question is how long should I wait after applying the Total Polish and Seal before I can apply the FK1000p. My gut tells me to wait at least 12 hours. Thanks for your help.:)
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I thought there was no winter in Florida.
 
Accumulator said:
Always interested to hear about experiences with FK1000P, especially when those experiences differ from mine.

I wonder if some shampoos are a lot harder on it than my GG:3D mix, or whether my vehicles are just *that* pampered. I mean...if I only got 3 months out of it (let alone less) I`d be rethinking my advocacy of the stuff and revisiting KSGx6.
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You`re garaging all those cars thought right?
 
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