FK1000p Beginner questions

What I did when I coated my wheels is to use blue paper shop towels. The towels never go back in the tin (at least not parts of it that have been in contact with the wheel).
 
If applicator contamination is a concern, given the tiny amount of FK1000P that needs to be transferred to the applicator I`d just use something (plastic razor blade, fingernail) to get it from the tin to the applicator. Something that`s easily wiped clean.

This also has me thinking how I sure go through a *LOT* of swabs when FK1000Ping/coating wheels! Mine have lots of tight spots that can only be accessed that way, takes forever.

I too would spritz (most) WWMFs with something before using them to dry, and FK425 is indeed very good, still my #2 choice for use on FK1000P. I quit using it on other LSPs after it *REALLY* messed with some Collinite 476S...like, so bad I had to redo the car that I was about to return to its owner (my `93 Audi before I bought it) :o
 
Hi, Why do you spritz before rubbing off the 1000p ? I find it rubs off really easy when it is dry - so i don`t understand why you would want to wet it again ?

BTW, I just love this stuff - I even put it over Opticoat as it seems to enhance the protection a bit and cleans up any dirty marks the washing didn`t get to. In theory it shouldn`t last over Opticoat - but the Opticoat is 5 years old so i am bored with not waxing my car.

It really is the simplest to apply and then rub off with no dust residual. I use the standard Meguiar type Yellow Foam Pads to apply and it works a treat.
 
Digger11- It`s funny how some guys like you and me find it so easy while others don`t! Seems like some people really do struggle with it a bit though.

jester7677 said:
Accumulator likes Gary Dean`s... but anyone that says a few swirls is ok, disqualifies it for me. :D
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I don`t consider all Ad Hominem arguments to be rhetorical fallacies, but in this case I don`t let the Man disqualify the Product. And in this case that "the Man" might oughta be in scare-quotes.

Noting that I like Garry almost in spite of myself, keep in mind that everything he says/posts/etc. is calculated towards selling his stuff...so of course a Rinseless Wash Guy would say some marring is OK. His, uhm..."Garry Dean Persona" might be genuinely *who he is*, or not...I don`t know, but it`s also a shtick that he trots out to promote his business. Smart tactic too, IMO...IMO he does the whole thing very well.

BTW, my experiences with Garry stand in stark contrast to my experiences with Optimum. Garry gives *great* customer service and doesn`t try to, uhm... blame the victim.


Anyhoo...the IUDJ is indeed quickly replacing all my QDs and I think it`s so great that the stuff I disagree with Garry about doesn`t dissuade me from using/recommending it

Oh, sorta related to Garry saying some marring is OK, here`s other "you oughta lower those standards" stuff I didn`t let put me off:

-Ron K said that a "little micromarring on the rocker panels" doesn`t matter
-Mike P teased me (good-naturedly) that I`m too extreme because nobody (else) inspects my daily driver with the kind of lighting I use

Those guys are still credible IMO, even though I disagree with them about some things I consider significant.

Heh heh...if Garry`s Customer Service and products weren`t All That, I sure wouldn`t have bothered keying in the above :D
 
I was following the wipe off of FK1000p with a FK425 wipe to make sure there were no dry remains. Applying it so thin in a Med lit garage made it seem like a good idea.

Wow, that`s a lot to say on a detail spay.
 
jester7677- Yeah, when applied (properly) thin, to the point where it`s hard to see, it can take a bit of doing to make sure you don`t miss anything. I seem to avoid any problems by fogging the surface with my breath and working very deliberately/systematically.

And yeah...I do go on about the IUDJ :o Guess it`s in part because of how I`m generally, uhm....negatively predisposed towards Rinseless Washes, or at least the idea of using them all by themselves to wash the vehicle. When something *really* impresses me, either +/- I`m gonna post about it :D
 
Accumulator said:
jester7677- Yeah, when applied (properly) thin, to the point where it`s hard to see, it can take a bit of doing to make sure you don`t miss anything. I seem to avoid any problems by fogging the surface with my breath and working very deliberately/systematically.

And yeah...I do go on about the IUDJ :o Guess it`s in part because of how I`m generally, uhm....negatively predisposed towards Rinseless Washes, or at least the idea of using them all by themselves to wash the vehicle. When something *really* impresses me, either +/- I`m gonna post about it :D
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Well, I`ll see how you feel when I finish the 1/2 gallon of FK425 that I have... if I feel the itch to try something else. You`ll have to tell me how it differs. :)
 
jester7677 said:
Well, I`ll see how you feel when I finish the 1/2 gallon of FK425 that I have... if I feel the itch to try something else. You`ll have to tell me how it differs. :)
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Hope you use it up faster than I do or I might be dead by then! I`ve been working my way through may gallons of QD for years now, sheesh...gotta watch that, uhm...accumulating!

But yeah, just never know when some New Shiny Thing will become the New Hotness, huh? I sure never thought I`d be singing the praises of either Garry or his rinseless wash, so who knows...

My take on FK425 vs. IUDJ is that the latter has better cleaning (OK, not much of a factor here) and encapsulation (is a factor, less marring if there`s something on the paint) and leaves things at least as slick and shiny as the FK. Zero interference with LSPs, though I generally don`t use it before LSPing. Zero [messing] with my LSPs the way FK425 occasionally (well, rarely..) did. No idea about shelf-life, but I suspect the IUDJ won`t go bad any faster than FK425, which stays OK virtually forever. And, even when mixed with distilled water at a pretty potent strength, the IUDJ is *MUCH* cheaper.

Right off-hand, I can`t think of anything I`d rather use FK425 for other than semi-oddball applications related to FK1000P...such as the "spritz when buffing off" that some use it for or the "rejuvenating dried-out FK1000P" that worked so well for me. Eh, I`ll probably always keep some on the shelf, but only for those kinds of uses.

EDIT: "But what about Fk425`s anti-static properties?" Eh, *what* anti-static properties?!? I simply never experienced that to a discernible degree (people here teased me that I "must be putting it on backwards" :D ), but I *think* I get just a bit of it from the IUDJ...but eh, maybe I`m just imagining that I`m experiencing what I want to experience ;) At any rate, no significant diffs IME.
 
Once again i agree. Antistatic shmushistatic. My black cars still get very dusty. I do use 425 as drying aid when washibg as adds a bit of shine to my Opticoat.
 
Is buffing off the haze after just 5-10mins to early after application? I find it tends to buff off easier than waiting 20-30mins.

Also changed MF cloth & is alot better at buffing & washing up.
 
Manix said:
Is buffing off the haze after just 5-10mins to early after application? I find it tends to buff off easier than waiting 20-30mins.

Also changed MF cloth & is alot better at buffing & washing up.
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I think waiting 30 mins after applying thin to the whole car is good. Then just leave it be until the next wash and focus on something else :)... at that point I will spray FK425 on the waffle weave towel during my drying process. I applied FK1000p again after the second wash, just for that added protection perception.
 
You will know if you buffed off too early, as IME it ends up smearing and takes a bit of effort to get the smearing gone.

I do what Jester does, apply, wait 20-30 mins, do a swipe test, and buff off.

I`ve found that buffing off AS SOON as you get a clean swipe test can save you some extra effort and aggravation down the road. I hear horror stories about this wax being like concrete to get off after waiting too long, but I haven`t experienced this even after going inside for dinner and forgetting I still had wax to buff off. It`s no Nattys wax in terms of easy application, but apply it thin and you will be just fine.

Wait a week, apply a second coat after next wash, and you should be golden for about 4-6 months (I`ve made it June to February, but the wax was all but dead).

Manix said:
Is buffing off the haze after just 5-10mins to early after application? I find it tends to buff off easier than waiting 20-30mins.

Also changed MF cloth & is alot better at buffing & washing up.
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IME most LSPs can be done pretty much wipe-on-wipe-off if you`re really into that, with the caveats to watch for the smearing and for indications of lessened durability. BUT...

IMO FK1000P is in the "the longer it dries the better" category, especially if applied thicker than needed. I figure that if it`s harder to buff off after a longer wait, then something`s wrong as it oughta get *easier*. Probably too thick...sorta the Standard Answer to any FK1000P issues :D

I`d at least wait until it passes the Finger-Swipe Test (which is how I do most any LSP).

Come to think of it, another LSP that has a reputation for being tough to buff off is Klasse Sealant Glaze. And once again, the longer I wait the easier it gets; I`ve even waited until the next day (just to see what`d happen) and it buffed off effortlessly.

The only LSP I can think of that (eventually) gets hard to buff off after an extended wait is M16, and it takes a while...not just a few hours. And even then the thickness of the application is the crucial factor.
 
I`ll soon be applying the FK1000P to my new Edge, and have a question about how heat and humidity affect the drying time of the product. We`re going to be seeing 100+ degree days here soon, and the humidity here in the summer is pretty high, too. Would high temps like this increase the drying time, or decrease it? (I`ll be applying in the garage, but it`s only marginally cooler there than in the driveway).
 
OzzieMike- Gee, I don`t know! Never applied the stuff without climate control....I`d expect it to dry faster, despite the humidity.
 
Ozzie, based on my experiences using it in the Texas summer heat and humidity, I would try to do it early in the morning or late evening when relatively cooler. It will definitely dry faster, but not to the level of "OMG, I JUST put this on there! why is it already concrete?"

I would go a few panels at a time (applying thin) until you get a feel for it. Then just adjust your process accordingly. Watch it, and wait for the swipe test to come up clean. you should be just fine.
 
Thanks guys! Sounds like I`ll have to wash/clay/polish the day before, then apply the FK1000P early morning the next day.

One last question (and I think I saw the answer before, but can`t find it now).....will I need to tape off the plastic, or doesn`t it matter with this stuff?
 
Humidity is the key and not so much the temp I a garage that`s shaded. If the humidity is very high you need not worry about it drying too fast. Do it in the garage in the shade and it should apply just fine.
 
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