Fk1000

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fstb88

New member
I've been lurking for a looooooong time and now I have a question that I can not find an answer for. I have a Meteoric Silver Toyota Yaris; After reading various threads and searching for the "best" lsp for silver paint I settled on Fk1000. Now after trying to apply by hand with my German Applicators I must ask, is there a simpler way to apply with those applicators? I read that I may be able to get the wax in its solid form out and get it on the pad that way but there is a rim that prevents this. Any suggestions? I can't find the words right now to properly ask this question so bare with me please, I'll edit when it comes to me.
 
I haven't used FK1000, but for other hard paste waxes that my applicator won't fit in I use a small plastic putty knife and lightly "butter" my pad. For almost all of my waxes or sealants I use the PC to apply...... I find I can get a thinner application that way.



I know what you mean about sliding the wax out of the container, but if you have an inside lip that prevents it I guess you'll have to try another way. I'd suggest a smaller foam pad that will fit easier in the container or try the method I mentioned above:



Foam Wax Applicator, Pkg/1



Handi-Grip Applicator



Hopefully a member more familiar with FK1000 and the container it comes will have some suggestions.
 
I use 4" round ccs apps.



Squish your applicator into the can and turn a few times. A little goes a long way with 1000p. Make sure to let it set up for 15 min.

IME, 1000p is no different than most waxes as far application from the tin to the pad.



Try a different applicator, one with rounded edges.
 
I use a plastic spoon to pick up a little dab (of wax) to put on my UDM pads. Use the back of the spoon to pull up a lit bit of wax and then spread it on your applicator. After waxing with a machine I might never go back to waxing by hand.
 
I think it was Bence who recommended just squishing up a four inch PC pad until you can get it to fit inside the 1000p tin. Crazy Hungarian. :) But if I remember right, someone said that they tried it, and it worked well.



I just apply 1000p by hand with a foam applicator. It's easy to apply and remove, but I bet using a PC to apply would make it much easier.
 
I used FK1000 yesterday. The tin sat in the sun and slightly softened. I used a traditional yellow foam applicator which fit perfectly in the tin without squishing it. It was if the pad were made for the tin. A couple of twists of the pad and it was loaded up. I spritz a little QD on the panel as I apply the wax to thin it out more.
 
I haven't done anything with my FK1000 yet except for some wheels, but I found that spritzing either the FK1000 iteself or the applicator with FK425 makes the whole thing go a bit easier. Guess it shouldn't be a surprise as the instructions say to do that...



How finicky is FK1000 regarding underlying products? It went on over KAIO just fine, but I'm wondering if other penultimate products might cause issues :confused:
 
SuperBee364 said:
I think it was Bence who recommended just squishing up a four inch PC pad until you can get it to fit inside the 1000p tin. Crazy Hungarian. :) But if I remember right, someone said that they tried it, and it worked well.



I just apply 1000p by hand with a foam applicator. It's easy to apply and remove, but I bet using a PC to apply would make it much easier.
Click to expand...



Ohh, it was me... :D



Yep, stuffing any oversized applicator or pad into the (pretty wide) opening of the 1000P jar is always a good method. Simple, quick and effective.
 
I just tried 1000P and I don't care for it. It was easy enough to apply, but taking it off was the biggest be-otch I've had in a long time. Also, the look was ok, nothing really wow. Of the recent LSP's I've tried - 1Z and Megs 26 were far easiesr to work with and looked better - at least on my car IMHO.
 
JuneBug said:
I just tried 1000P and I don't care for it. It was easy enough to apply, but taking it off was the biggest be-otch I've had in a long time. Also, the look was ok, nothing really wow. Of the recent LSP's I've tried - 1Z and Megs 26 were far easiesr to work with and looked better - at least on my car IMHO.
Click to expand...





Use a pc to apply an even thin layer. wait 30 minutes. Comes off like butter. Longer protection then anything out there.
 
JuneBug said:
I just tried 1000P and I don't care for it. It was easy enough to apply, but taking it off was the biggest be-otch I've had in a long time. Also, the look was ok, nothing really wow. Of the recent LSP's I've tried - 1Z and Megs 26 were far easiesr to work with and looked better - at least on my car IMHO.
Click to expand...





You can send it to me.
 
Bence said:
Ohh, it was me... :D



Yep, stuffing any oversized applicator or pad into the (pretty wide) opening of the 1000P jar is always a good method. Simple, quick and effective.
Click to expand...



Bence



which colour 4 inch pad did you use ?

and wat speed on the pc/udm did you use it for application ?
 
JuneBug said:
I just tried 1000P and I don't care for it. It was easy enough to apply, but taking it off was the biggest be-otch I've had in a long time. Also, the look was ok, nothing really wow. Of the recent LSP's I've tried - 1Z and Megs 26 were far easiesr to work with and looked better - at least on my car IMHO.
Click to expand...



Sounds like you put it on too thick. FK1000P always comes off nice for me. The first time I used it was a little tricky however (too thick and high humidity). And two coats of 1000P 20 min apart is key, then lock the car up in the garage and pull it out the next day, for whatever reason FK products need some time to "cure" and really shine after a day or two.



IMO nothing beats 1000P topped with Pink Wax.
 
Yep, 1000P comes off very easily.



Buja, I don't have any 4 inch pads. The smallest ones are my 13.5 cm Menzernas. I usually grab my thicker 6.5 or 7 inch pads, squeeze them into the jar, twist them once or twice, slap them on the machine and go. Speed doesn't matter basically; but I'm using 3 and 4 in most cases.



I always apply my LSPs with finishing and finessing pads.
 
Bence said:
Ohh, it was me... :D



Yep, stuffing any oversized applicator or pad into the (pretty wide) opening of the 1000P jar is always a good method. Simple, quick and effective.
Click to expand...



I agree with that. I now use it for interior shiny parts. Or lacquered wood trim.
 
I spent over a hour and a half taking the wax off a 4 door Accord, and I still saw streaks of wax on it this morning, maybe if I had PC'd it in and got it barely visable, then I'd love it too. But I didn't and I don't - I swear I put marring in my soft asre Honda paint trying to get it off. And once I decide I don't like something - that's it, going back to "bubba" proof stuff.
 
I completely agree that it is my fault - technique, conditions, I don't know. It sure went on easy - just turned to concrete afterwards. By streaks - I mean there were traces of wax after you think you have wiped it all off. Now, looks - no matter how the application went, the results should be the same, maybe better in my case since I must have used too much and it sure got rubbed and shined, the look is nothing special. If it was I'd try really hard to try it again. One thing I believe, it sure ought to last a long while. Probably polish it off and use something else long before it gives up.
 
There are certain colors which are not good companions to 1000P. Certain dark shades won't cooperate with it too well and produce an uninspiring look. BUT! Wait 2-3 days and check the look. If you see gains in definition and overall clarity, apply a second and a third layer a day apart. Then wait again 2-3 days to see if the 1000P can show its true potential or it is not that suitable for that color.



The concrete thingy is really surprising because this stuff is very forgiving - but of course you have to apply it correctly, thinly. Try it again with whisper thin coats.
 
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