tom p.
Active member
I got the sampler pack from FK a few weeks ago and tried out most of the products. I also got a gallon of the wheel cleaner and it’s very good. It leaves a clean and bright surface.
The folks at FK recommended the following sequence: #1119>#118SC>#215>#303>#2180>Pink wax. Now, let’s keep things in perspective: this is my daily driver.
It’s an aging 1995 GM H body car with 150k miles and I’m not willing to commit hours of labor. It’s just not worth it and the good cars need attention, too, which takes priority.
I checked my maintenance log and this car has not had any work since last fall. I have applied OCW, and more recently, Duragloss spray wax (which is appears to have amazing durability and still beading like mad months later). I knew I had to strip off previous products. Te paint still looked great following a weekly washing, but the surface is dirty/rough to the touch.
I used these steps: #1119>#118SC>#215>#2180 on the entire vehicle. I used the #303 on the horizontal surfaces as they are dulled by acid rain and have loads of scratches courtesy of other folks setting their garbage on my car.
The #1119 decontamination/stripper is noteworthy. You mix the stuff up 1:4. I misted it on the car and let it sit for a few minutes. You could clearly see where it cut through layers of previously applied products. I did have a little streaking and that was removed during follow up steps. This product appears to be an excellent find and quickly assists in getting old layers removed and cleaning off much road debris. It almost eliminates the need for claying.
Next step was their #118SC car wash/pH neutralizer. An ounce or two added to wash bucket yields a foamy bath. I guess this product is supposed to help “neutralize� the previous decontamination step.
I think used a coarse foam pad to apply the #215 which appears to be a fine standalone one-step. Easy on/easy off. None of the products I used generate any dust. The #215 did an adequate cleaning job and left the surface reasonably glossy. I probably would have quit here but the fellow at FK suggested a few more steps. Remember, this is a tired daily driver.
I used #303 (foam polishing pad) on the trunk and hood hoping to fill some scratches. While the product didn’t appear to be terribly successful at hiding scratches (see picture), it did add tremendous clarity and gloss to the paint. I found the result very pleasing.
My expectation was high for the #2180 LSP. I was little disappointed to find it added no further gloss to the surfaces treated with #215. In fact, it may have slightly dulled or clouded the cleaned surfaces. So, I was a bit frustrated. Time will tell. With this car my primary focus is longevity through the next six months. If it holds up well, I’ll say the product performed satisfactorily.
I did a coat of Pink wax on the hood. It’s your basic poly/carnauba blend. Very easy to work with, high reflectivity and lots of bright. I suspect it will hold up. Seems comparable to products I’ve used in the past.
I scrubbed the heavy rubber strips on the doors with the #108 protectant and was able to really work it into the grooves. It dramatically improved the appearance. I hope it lasts.
I’ve used the #425 for the past week or two. This is their poly “QD� product. It has tremendous slickness and appears to leave some protection (purists may not like this characteristic from their QD). I love this stuff on glass and black chrome found on newer cars. One of the best products of its type.
Products I like so far and will repeat purchase: #1119, #118SC, #221D (wheel cleaner) and the #425. I like the #303 foam pad glaze a lot…not sure if it’s significantly different compared to other glazes I have sitting on my shelf.
Product not sampled; #121 (APC)
There are no “before� pictures. It was dark when I started.
Aquapel applied to windshield, RAINX applied to all other glass.
This car represents an era where GM was working thru another experimental phase with paintwork
...and guess who's the test pilot. You see these cars on the road with massive areas, primarily horizontal surfaces, having shed their paint. This car has lived outside most of its life. It is garaged now. I try to wash it weekly and it still cleans up pretty good. Acid rain damage to the roof is quite noticeable. I haven't been able to improve it, but will admit I haven't tried that hard. I am at the point where I just try to keep the rust at bay since this car sees all the bad weather and the good car can be kept clean.
The folks at FK recommended the following sequence: #1119>#118SC>#215>#303>#2180>Pink wax. Now, let’s keep things in perspective: this is my daily driver.

I checked my maintenance log and this car has not had any work since last fall. I have applied OCW, and more recently, Duragloss spray wax (which is appears to have amazing durability and still beading like mad months later). I knew I had to strip off previous products. Te paint still looked great following a weekly washing, but the surface is dirty/rough to the touch.
I used these steps: #1119>#118SC>#215>#2180 on the entire vehicle. I used the #303 on the horizontal surfaces as they are dulled by acid rain and have loads of scratches courtesy of other folks setting their garbage on my car.
The #1119 decontamination/stripper is noteworthy. You mix the stuff up 1:4. I misted it on the car and let it sit for a few minutes. You could clearly see where it cut through layers of previously applied products. I did have a little streaking and that was removed during follow up steps. This product appears to be an excellent find and quickly assists in getting old layers removed and cleaning off much road debris. It almost eliminates the need for claying.
Next step was their #118SC car wash/pH neutralizer. An ounce or two added to wash bucket yields a foamy bath. I guess this product is supposed to help “neutralize� the previous decontamination step.
I think used a coarse foam pad to apply the #215 which appears to be a fine standalone one-step. Easy on/easy off. None of the products I used generate any dust. The #215 did an adequate cleaning job and left the surface reasonably glossy. I probably would have quit here but the fellow at FK suggested a few more steps. Remember, this is a tired daily driver.
I used #303 (foam polishing pad) on the trunk and hood hoping to fill some scratches. While the product didn’t appear to be terribly successful at hiding scratches (see picture), it did add tremendous clarity and gloss to the paint. I found the result very pleasing.
My expectation was high for the #2180 LSP. I was little disappointed to find it added no further gloss to the surfaces treated with #215. In fact, it may have slightly dulled or clouded the cleaned surfaces. So, I was a bit frustrated. Time will tell. With this car my primary focus is longevity through the next six months. If it holds up well, I’ll say the product performed satisfactorily.
I did a coat of Pink wax on the hood. It’s your basic poly/carnauba blend. Very easy to work with, high reflectivity and lots of bright. I suspect it will hold up. Seems comparable to products I’ve used in the past.
I scrubbed the heavy rubber strips on the doors with the #108 protectant and was able to really work it into the grooves. It dramatically improved the appearance. I hope it lasts.
I’ve used the #425 for the past week or two. This is their poly “QD� product. It has tremendous slickness and appears to leave some protection (purists may not like this characteristic from their QD). I love this stuff on glass and black chrome found on newer cars. One of the best products of its type.
Products I like so far and will repeat purchase: #1119, #118SC, #221D (wheel cleaner) and the #425. I like the #303 foam pad glaze a lot…not sure if it’s significantly different compared to other glazes I have sitting on my shelf.
Product not sampled; #121 (APC)
There are no “before� pictures. It was dark when I started.





Aquapel applied to windshield, RAINX applied to all other glass.
This car represents an era where GM was working thru another experimental phase with paintwork
