FK Decontamination Kit

Eisen Hulk

New member
What are your thoughts about this?



Do you need to purchase all four products to do the complete cycle? I'm a complete newbie when it comes to decon. kits, but it seems like something that could be beneficial.



If not the FK kit, what brand would you suggest?



Thanks in advance.
 
I've used the FK kit, and if I had it to do over again, I would get this one: ValuGard Neutralization System



Auto International/Valugard just redid their site (just saw it when I went to get you the link) and I don't see the store anymore :think: , but I believe their kit was $55, which may give you a lot more product than the FK kit. You should be able to order by phone, and I also think Winner's Circle Detailing sells it. (www.wcddetail.com) It's funny the Valugard store seems to be gone as I just used it for the first time a few weeks ago, and they shipped the same day, only gripe was they didn't show the shipping online (thought I got free shipping until the box came with the invoice).



There have been several other threads on this exact same question which you may find by searching.
 
Thank you so much, Setec. I'll check out the ValuGard.



I'll also run a search to see what I can dig up. Sorry about that.
 
Good to know. Thanks, Bryan.



So, do you see actual value in using a decon. kit? I really don't want to waste money on something I really don't need.



gmblack3a said:
I have the ValuGard kit. You still might have to do some light claying after using the system.
 
EisenHulk said:
...........I really don't want to waste money on something I really don't need.
How many cases of severe contamination have you run into around here Casey? I really haven't see that much of a problem locally with rail dust and other contamination that would warrant a decon kit. I'm not saying there aren't cases where they would be very handy to have, but I think around here we can get by 99% of the time with a good clay.



If you had a detail scheduled that needed a decon then I'd go ahead and order it, but I wouldn't do it just to have around, at least not where we live.



I can give you a list of other things I think you'll need first if you want :chuckle:
 
Also note that the kit will not work on tree sap. A plus is that I have never polished paint that was so smooth then I have after using the kit.
 
gmblack3a said:
Also note that the kit will not work on tree sap. A plus is that I have never polished paint that was so smooth then I have after using the kit.



Someone else mentioned that paint that has been decontaminated is much easier to polish. I think they said for the first time ever, SIP did not give them buffer hop.



I know Accumulator has used AutoInternational's ABC system and I believe he has said once you use the system, you are pretty much set for the next 5 years or more so long as you properly maintain your car afterwards (weekly washes, frequent claying, etc.). I am still planning on coming down to Lexington Nov 1st. Maybe we could split the system between the two of us and save some money. My car is 9 years old and the person who owned it before me did very little to protect it so maybe it could use a decontamination??? Who knows. Just let me know if you are interested.
 
I have ValuGard's ABC system, and I like it, for occasional use.



Regarding the ValuGard Store, order by phone. or, by email: treyh@autoint.com, if you have an account with them.



You'll get a 25% 'detailer' discount.




just a heads up, they are OUT of Odor Terminator until the end of September...



Jim
 
bert31 said:
My car is 9 years old and the person who owned it before me did very little to protect it so maybe it could use a decontamination??? Who knows.



One of the things to keep in mind is that if you read the "literature" at the AutoInt site, one of the "purposes" of the ABC system is to neutralize acid rain and bird droppings which they claim penetrate the matrix of the paint and continue to damage it unless they are neutralized.



I'm not entirely sure I buy that, because if the paint is porous enough to let the Step A alkaline wash penetrate to neutralize the acids...then isn't the Step B acid (which is primarily used for dissolving metallic contamination i.e. rail dust) going to penetrate also? And if regular car washing is not enough to neutralize the acids, then how is the Step C going to neutralize the Step B that has penetrated the porous paint?
 
That's a good point, John.



I think I just feel like throwing money away. Hahaha.





Eliot Ness said:
How many cases of severe contamination have you run into around here Casey? I really haven't see that much of a problem locally with rail dust and other contamination that would warrant a decon kit. I'm not saying there aren't cases where they would be very handy to have, but I think around here we can get by 99% of the time with a good clay.



If you had a detail scheduled that needed a decon then I'd go ahead and order it, but I wouldn't do it just to have around, at least not where we live.



I can give you a list of other things I think you'll need first if you want :chuckle:
 
gmblack3a said:
I have the ValuGard kit. You still might have to do some light claying after using the system.



If you don't mind going through clay sorta fast, try claying while the second/acidic/"B" step is dwelling. Works super for me but man does it dissolve the clay!
 
Accumulator said:
If you don't mind going through clay sorta fast, try claying while the second/acidic/"B" step is dwelling. Works super for me but man does it dissolve the clay!



I used an older used up piece of clay the other day on the hood of a durango during the B step. It really ate the clay up and I marred the surface pretty well. I think I just prefer to do a seperate claying step after. Have you ever used the white scotch brite pad that comes with the kit? I have not tried it yet.
 
gmblack3a said:
I used an older used up piece of clay the other day on the hood of a durango during the B step. It really ate the clay up and I marred the surface pretty well. ... Have you ever used the white scotch brite pad that comes with the kit? I have not tried it yet.



Hmm...guess the "B"'s lack of lubricity didn't help regarding the marring. I've only done this with clay that generally won't mar and now I'm gonna be *extra* careful.



Nah, I didn't try that white pad, it looked kinda scary :nervous:
 
:doh: Sorry if this post went to the wrong person. It was meant for Elliot Ness. [/B] Sorry for butting into your post but I am new on here, just joined tonight after reading the long but fantastic article on claying. You mentioned to Casey that you could give him a list of other things he would need first. THAT is my biggest problem. Having been with a detailing company for two years and now quitting them, I don't have a single clue as to what all the products do or how to apply which ones first, etc. So I can use all the help I can get. I do have the PC and Flex buffers, more double and single Microfiber towels than I will use in my lifetime plus other M/F towels for other things. I have plenty (gobs) of foam applicating pads, tire, wheel and engine cleaning brushes. Gallons of what I call Detail Spray, window cleaner and window sealer. Product to keep UV rays off of tires, making them black as if new but does not leave a bright shine on them which I like. I have two different buffing type pads. Flat surfaced and the new, what is called Generation 4 buffing pads. Have the smaller 4" buffing pads ~ all are for different products. Three new cans of Americana Paste wax (Carnuba). Two different types of sealants that go on the paint first, after having done a thorough stripping of the car. Gallons of washing soap. 8 wash buckets with two different sized washing pads. A detail cart, etc. It's your products that I need to quickly learn because I have a new Mercedes which is "Black" and a new RAM diesel truck that is a dark silver with metal flake. The Mercedes needs to be taken care of first. Not sure if you have a "hand detailing kit" or products for that and also need to know what is used for buffing the entire vehicles. My buffing pads are bigger than what I have seen under the products so it would be great if I could use them ~ but if I have to buy a new backing plate and pads then so be it.



I apologize for rambling on but am more than Happy that I found this detailing site. Again, I need to know where to buy the best Decon. kit. Live in a small city ~ population 17,500 with 65,000 living in the County. No really big companies that put out junk that might hurt the paint so I may only have to use the kit once or twice a year at the most. Still, want it on hand in case I do need it or a buddy is in need of immediately using it.



Many thanks for putting up with this reply and am really looking forward to meeting all the members I can. Which by the way, how many members are there on the forum?



Just a FYI but I live in Southen Oregon, twenty miles from the Northern California Border where they use tons of that rotten salt spray during the winter months so if there are any products that may help reduce any left over salt after pressure washing, I'd appreciate learning about them. I just barely drive the Mercedes during the winter, using mostly the new RAM diesel HD2500. If the salt spray doesn't get me, the so called red cinders (more like big rocks) they put on the slick roads will do a number if not careful with oncoming traffic. OH, sorry but what is good for bugs. We have small ones called Midges. They mate in the air and live only three days during the summer months. These little green suckers will do a number on you ride if not immediately removed once the vehicles are parked. I also have what is called a "Waterless Wash" product. With just light dust on the vehicles, you spray this on a panel at a time and taking one of the Waterless Wash towels to remove the dust. Is there a product like that I can buy. I have 9 bottles of that however I go through it pretty fast due to a lot of dust in the air.



Have a good one,



Corners
 
Corners- Welcome to Autopia!



For a decontamination system, order the "ABC" system from these folks: http://www.autoint.com . Don't let the "professional" tone of the site put you off, you can order by calling Beth at (800) 543-7156 Mon.-Fri.



I'd also buy their "bug pad" (she'll know what you mean), which you can use for gentle scrubbing (do be gentle with it!) while the "B" is dwelling. Not saying you'll need it, but since you're ordering anyhow I'd get one.



I'm not a big fan of the Porter Cable polishers (never use mine any more). Is your Flex their 3401? If so, you should be OK using that even though it takes 6-6.5" pads.
 
Not to siderail this post- [Is your Flex their 3401? If so, you should be OK using that even though it takes 6-6.5" pads]





The success generated by the Flex Polisher, XC 3401 VR, that was launched over 3 years ago was marred by only one thing; the ability to use smaller pads with this unit. Flex 3401 Dual Action set of Backing Plates. The new Lake Country designed plates are 4” for small pads and 6” for bigger pads. Now you can polish smaller areas with the Flex machine. The new system consists of a gear plate, 4” plate and a 6” plate. When assembled, the gear plate stays on the machine and the 4” and 6” plates can be quickly removed.





See article http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopi...42-valugard-paint-decontamination-system.html
 
I've used the FK kit for a few years and love step 1 to death. man that one removes alot of stuff

The step 2 is pretty powerful but works well



There is a massive improvement in ease of polishing after using the FK kit and same would be for the Valugard one



I am however moving to the following decontamination process



Wash

FK step 1

Wolfs Deironiser gel

Nanoskin auto scrub



Washing and claying a vehicles paint and starting polishing is pretty good but no match for doing a complete decon process prior to polishing. the paint after a decon process will respond to polishing much more and it will be easier to do as well. as soon as you turn on a rotary and move it, the paint's finish will already start to improve. A red hyundai I30 that I did this process on buffed like a dream afterwards. went from lightly dull to glossy with the first movement of the machine in two seconds.
 


Research what each product (chemical) contains and how they will react to each other (synergistic compatibility).Just remember that anytime two chemicals with completely different formulas and / or functions are combined, at best the effectiveness of each chemical is reduced, and/or the chemicals may not be compatible



Don't haphazardly mix chemicals; pay attention to the order in which chemicals are to be added to each other and do not deviate from the instructions. Even chemicals that mix to produce seemingly safe products should be handled carefully. For example, hydrochloric acid and sodium hydroxide will give you salt water, but the reaction could break your glassware or splash the reactants onto you if you aren't careful. Some rules are NOT made to be broken. That is true of the rules used for chemicals. They are established for your safety and those of other’s



These two products (FK # 1119 Soil Coating Remover and FK # 883 Steel / Iron Rust Remover) come with very strong warnings for good reasons; so they should only be used if needed. There is no reason to subject paint to harsh chemicals unless it is necessary.



I'm not sure how these chemicals (FK and Wolf's) will interact between each other and I would be interested to know how well the surface prep towels polymerized rubber surface holds up agaist such strong chemicals as highly alkaline detergents or solvents will break down the polymers making the towel surface soft, brittle, and it will eventually disintegrate.
 
SVR said:
I've used the FK kit for a few years and love step 1 to death. man that one removes alot of stuff...





Yeah, I too like that FK1119, enough so that I keep it on-hand all the time. Bet I'd like the FK883 too since I consider "B" a bit too mild.



But Ron's caveats have made me leery of recommending the FK stuff to people I don't know well. The "ABC" is sooo user-friendly, I just can't imagine anything going wrong no matter how badly someone might ignore the directions.
 
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