Fixing an Open Clinic Mistake- HORROR!!

Is this question for me? How could you be so certain I'd have a better experience? Did I say somewhere that I was having problems with Meguiar's products being effective? Just curious.



re: M80

#80 is a cleaner polish and it's not an LSP. It removes swirls. It's been proven time and time again. You can buff out a panel with M80, and use a 50/50 isopropyl alcohol/water mix and wipe it down, and the swirls will still be gone. Then you need to seal it with a wax or sealent.



Richard





G35stilez said:
Have you thought about switching to Menzerna polishes? I am certain you will have a better experience with them.





Also, doesn't #80 have filler in it?
 
I am sure Sean only meant to help.



IMO, when I first saw the process that you used on the test panel, the first thing that I thought is "wow, this guy should get his hands on some Hi-Temp Extreme Cut." I used the Meguiars 80's series for years by hand, rotarty, and PC--they are my baseline polishes. I learned on the 80's series line and still use them, but the HTEC, optimum line of polishes, as well as the Menzerna line simply blow them out of the water--especially when used via rotary. Make no mistake, I am not trying to knock your work, but I really think these products could save you time--as in trips around the vehicle. There was a time when I thought different, but experience has taught me otherwise.



HTEC can cut like #85, yet finish better than #80.



About the fillers in #80. I always assume that the trade secret oils in the Meguiars line will fill to some degree. I do believe that #80 *will* remove defects, I know that for a fact. As long you know the limits of a polish, the fillers typically aren't a problem. By the time I reach for #80, the paint is close to perfect (if the paint is soft #80 won't finish out well enough anyway).



Octaneguy, wasn't your Mini one that Mike applied NXT over Zaino on at a clinic "back in the day?"
 
I agree with ebpcivicsi; I use 80 relatively often but only when it's time to remove very light marring. I know that it will remove them and leave a great LSP ready finish. That said, is used on deeper marring the trade secret oils will do some filling. It's a great one-step product for lightly swirled cars, just have to be sure you're getting all the marring with it (which 90% of the time you are. :) )
 
yea.. richard did a great job on my car...



thanks man.. yea i was a little annoyed that the swirl was left there. I mean my swirls were bad but not that bad..



anyways... he'll probably detail my whole car next month or so...
 
ebpcivicsi said:
I am sure Sean only meant to help.



IMO, when I first saw the process that you used on the test panel, the first thing that I thought is "wow, this guy should get his hands on some Hi-Temp Extreme Cut." I used the Meguiars 80's series for years by hand, rotarty, and PC--they are my baseline polishes. I learned on the 80's series line and still use them, but the HTEC, optimum line of polishes, as well as the Menzerna line simply blow them out of the water--especially when used via rotary. Make no mistake, I am not trying to knock your work, but I really think these products could save you time--as in trips around the vehicle. There was a time when I thought different, but experience has taught me otherwise.



HTEC can cut like #85, yet finish better than #80.



About the fillers in #80. I always assume that the trade secret oils in the Meguiars line will fill to some degree. I do believe that #80 *will* remove defects, I know that for a fact. As long you know the limits of a polish, the fillers typically aren't a problem. By the time I reach for #80, the paint is close to perfect (if the paint is soft #80 won't finish out well enough anyway).



Octaneguy, wasn't your Mini one that Mike applied NXT over Zaino on at a clinic "back in the day?"





Yep, thank you.





Richard: Relax...I know you and Meguiar's are like this :hifive:, but it doesn't mean you have to be close-minded about other products. I have been using a rotary exclusively for years.



I started with Meguiar's as well. I then moved to PB, Gliptone, 3M, Poorboy's, and now rest with Menzerna, Optimum, and HTEC. There are some really good polishes/compounds out there and I would hate to see a job take 13 hours when it could be done in 6...To me, it's so much wasted time.
 
G35stilez

Oh I didn't mean to come off excited...though I know I did now that I've read it a few times. I'm certainly not against learning new products or using anything that will save me time as long as quality isn't compromised.



I appreciate your insight in all of this.



ebpcivicsi

Yep that was my MINI. What's significant about it is that not only was my "12 layers of Zaino" being replaced with NXT, but it was the first point in my life where I realized that detailing cars was pretty fun. LOL.



Richard



G35stilez said:
Yep, thank you.





Richard: Relax...I know you and Meguiar's are like this :hifive:, but it doesn't mean you have to be close-minded about other products. I have been using a rotary exclusively for years.



I started with Meguiar's as well. I then moved to PB, Gliptone, 3M, Poorboy's, and now rest with Menzerna, Optimum, and HTEC. There are some really good polishes/compounds out there and I would hate to see a job take 13 hours when it could be done in 6...To me, it's so much wasted time.
 
Great restore richard. Paint looks a million times better



How do you like the Meguiars pads? I was thinking about ordering their Burgundy, and Yellow pad. Not sure if the yellow pad would cut it with the swirls I have, as I am working with SSR2.5. So im thinking of just ordering the Burgundy pad for the 2.5, and finishing up with a white polishing pad and OP.
 
Well under the Meguiar's system, it's more about chemical choices rather than pad choices. With the pads, you've got 3 choices.



1.) W7006 cutting pad

2.) W8006 polishing pad which is the general purpose do everything with this pad

3.) W9006 finishing pad



90% of the work can be done with just the yellow W8006 pad with the rotary. For the PC, your only choice is the W8006. The 7006 and 9006 are used in special cases only.



I've worked on a variety of paints and have used the yellow pad for removing the top layer of paint off old SS paints, as well as for buffing out buffer swirls and scratches in clear coat systems.



The variable was whether I was using a mild abrasive like M82 or something aggressive like M84. Unfortunately I'm really not experienced with other brands of products to be able to make any kind of suggestion for you. Sorry.



Richard





evenflow said:
Great restore richard. Paint looks a million times better



How do you like the Meguiars pads? I was thinking about ordering their Burgundy, and Yellow pad. Not sure if the yellow pad would cut it with the swirls I have, as I am working with SSR2.5. So im thinking of just ordering the Burgundy pad for the 2.5, and finishing up with a white polishing pad and OP.
 
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