First try with Collinite 845

Accumulator said:
4u2nvinmtl- You really do need a work platform...I can't imagine trying to inspect/correct the roof without one. But then I wouldn't even want to wash/dry the roof without a few platforms.
Click to expand...

My trick is that I never corrected the roof (very un-autopian of me, I know). The Orange Peel is so bad on the roof it looks like a textured glass shower door and it serves as a reminder to how far my paint has come since I started.

Sorry to get off topic... 845 rocks regardless of finish/paint texture. I car pooled with my mother to work today and took the opportunity to inspect the paint on her 2015 Ford Fusion (daily driven and outdoor parked). I was really impressed by 845's ability to bead water even when the paint is dirty (most LSP look like they've failed when the car is dirty/road film). I applied the 845 late June (3 months ago) and the car has only been washed once.

Note: I applied 845 from head to toe on the Ford Fusion and it's even holding up on the trim, exhaust, wheels, grills, and windows (didn't apply to front windshield).

MHO of Collinite 845: It's versatile, cheap, durable, looks good, and beads fantastically - what more could you ask of a LSP?
 
4u2nvinmtl said:
... 845 rocks regardless of finish/paint texture...
Click to expand...

That's a big reason why I'm still using it on the '93 Audi's very rough-textured rocker panels, and it's just so easy to do the adjacent rubber strips at the same time. So quick and easy that I don't mind redoing it when needed.
 
FYI... Anyone planning on using 845 on their trim might be reminded that you do not leave the product to dry before wiping it off. Also, as thin a layer as possible.
I'm glad it worked great for some people, but I just gave myself another 2 hours of product removal ( 845 is not the easiest to remove ).
I left the product too long and by the time I went back to whip it off my trim had turned white, not pretty.
So now I'm using IPA to try to remove the 845 and follow up with my Ultima tire and trim guard +.
It's taking time but in slowly getting my trim back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
marinesoup-That's a good point! I'll try to remember to keep repeating that whenever we discuss 845 on trim. I'm using both 845 and UTTG+ on the '93 Audi's trim, finding reasons why both products have their pros/cons for this application, even on the same vehicle.

I'd use something better than IPA to remove the 845. Some have argued that you can *clean* durable waxes with IPA, that IPA doesn't really strip certain waxes much at all. Missing member PiPUK once challenged me to do his "IPA and wax" test to prove it to myself but I never got around to it so I decided to just take his word for it.
 
I would really like feedback from anyone that has personal knowledge of a product(s) that work well in removing a durable wax like 845 off porous trim. It would be a great help for me.
Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
marinesoup the Mother's trim restore cleaner is a very good deep trim cleaner. Clean your trim a few times with that to try to remove the I845. 1Z Deep plastic cleaner might remove it too. Never tried to remove LSP an entire piece of trim with it before.

The water spot removers are also pretty good at removing wax from trim also.
 
[Accumulator is a *BIG* fan of B&B :D ...hence my frequent "heh heh heh" ]

marinesoup- I've removed wax from [you-name-it] with:

-3M Adhesive Remover
-VlauGard new Car Prep
-Hi-Temp's Akyra-Clean/PrepWash/RemoveAll
-Griot's Dried Wax Remover
-GR8 (think that's the name, it's a trim-cleaning product)
-various APCs
 
Accumulator:
You can add Pittsburg Paint and Glass's (PPG) DX 330 Acryli-Clean wax and grease remover. It's a pre-VOC-compliant solvent cleaner that paint shops used to prep vehicles before painting.


Also, another "hint" from the now-mostly-absent Scottwax about using 845 is that it tends to get hard and clumpy and does not stay in suspension as a liquid, as many of you have found out. His trick is to stick a long screw-driver shaft (flat end works better than a Phillips ) into the bottle and stirring vigorously, like you are mixing paint, until it become more liquid. THEN you can shake up the bottle to get it back the way it should be before applying it. Just make sure to KEEP A THUMB or INDEX FINGER ON TOP OF THE CAP while shaking it. Collinite screw-on caps to not have the ability to tighten completely, for some reason. Yes, I have first-hand experience slinging 845 all over a basement floor by not doing this. The floor was a mess to clean-up , not to mention the slippery hazard it created on the floor walking with stocking feet.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top