Truthfully I didnt know what I was getting into. THe owner of the car happens to be the person who painted it and a source for advice during the process. He suggested I use 1200 and a rubber squeegee block to sand which worked out just perfect. This of course followed by a compound, polish (swirl remover), and a glaze to bring up the shine.
I kept the sand paper flat working straight lines in two directions. Basically back and forth, until the finish was chalky and there were no visible spots where I may have missed with the paper.
To get the paint down to where it needs to be takes more work than I first realised. I mean, 4 passes with light pressure and the job was only about 10% done. To get the job done quicker I used more pressure on the block and shorter strokes. This way is more effective IMO.
Most body shops will use a wool pad and a good cutting compound. In my case, I started with a "1000 grit" leveler and a YELLOW FOAM cutting pad with a high speed. I wouldnt even dream of using a PC work in this case. Expect, if you are using a foam pad, to make a few passes (instead of 1 or 2 with a wool pad) in order to remove the swirls.
Finally, the shine is all that counts. If it takes a few more seconds of sanding it all worth it. If for some reason you do not like the finish after you first attempt, try repeating the process. For instance, the second picture are results i was able to get after one attempt. I should be very satisfied. However, I believe it could get better. Notice the reflection of the building. The half that is in shadow and the other is in direct sunlight. I'd like to make the finish as deep as the shadowed part, when in direct sunlight. Am I crazy?
