First Rotary outting.... (NO 56K)
- Thread starter kleraudio
- Start date
ConglomrationAL
New member
I would suggest Edge wool they're awesome, but then again i've never used the LC foamed wool.
The door looks great, I think it's funny that you taped off the trim!!
~Albert
The door looks great, I think it's funny that you taped off the trim!!
~Albert
HAHA, yea I never even thought of that AL. LOL, that is pretty funny. I guess its just habit.
I am actually going to order the 6" edge wool from autogeek tomorrow.
I take it you have used the Edge wool before, are they pretty smooth and do they work well with SIP?? Correction is fast as well right?
Thanks AL
Jim
I am actually going to order the 6" edge wool from autogeek tomorrow.
I take it you have used the Edge wool before, are they pretty smooth and do they work well with SIP?? Correction is fast as well right?
Thanks AL
Jim
imported_rydawg1
New member
Hey Jim, I sent you a PM back. I will post the info on here as well to help others too.
SIP works best on the orange lc pad and will also work on the white polish pad too. If the orange pad is too stiff then rinse it out very good and spin dry it on the rotary very good. Once the pad becomes used it will soften very nicely and perfect.
Place 4 small drops at 12/3/6/9 O'clock on the pad 1 inch from the edge around. Place the rotary on the panel and start at 600rpm and work in the polish at a medium pace in a 2x2 section to disperse the polish evenly. You will see it start to break down and turn into a film. This is to make sure the polish all starts at 2000 grit and the lube is all even.
Work your way back to where you started and start at 1200-1500 and work it in at a slower constant motion pace, but do not sit on one area. Move it around slowly like 1 to 2 inches per second. You will get the hang of it when you get familar with the rotary and the polish. Watch your technique and learn it and watch how it reacts and observe it's break down process. This will help you understand and know how it works and you will become better at it as time goes on. A rotary is serious and watch what you are doing at ALL times.
Always tape off trim and plastic lights. NEVER hit anything with the sidewall of the pad and this will result in a burn FAST! If you are working on softer paint, use 106ff on a white LC pad first, if that does not work then use the SIP and the Orange pad at 1200 rpm max.
As for wool pads I do not see it neccasary unless the paint is beat. As much as I love wool and use it for faster details, foam and SIP will correct alot. I have tried the edge wool pads with the SIP and it will dust a bit and micro-marr a tad bit. An orange foam pad is the way to go. Last month another member came to my house with his new black vette and he had a foamed wool so we tried it out on it and under 1500 watt halogens it still marred, but removed the defects much faster. For wool I still use and suggest Presta polishes as they are the best for wool. For foam SIP is the best correction polish.
Follow that with 106ff on a white LC pad at 1200 to 1500 and the finish will jump from great to amazing. When finishing with 106, after working the polish into the finish, slow the speed down to 800 rpm and this will give you a 100% swirl free surface with no buffer trails at all.
Always use clean pads and never mix any polishes together!
When you pick you buffer off of the ground make sure there is no dirt on the handle from the ground and wipe it before you put it on the car.
Always use precaution with everything you do and you will never have any problems.
Hope this helps alot!!!!!!!!
Ryan
SIP works best on the orange lc pad and will also work on the white polish pad too. If the orange pad is too stiff then rinse it out very good and spin dry it on the rotary very good. Once the pad becomes used it will soften very nicely and perfect.
Place 4 small drops at 12/3/6/9 O'clock on the pad 1 inch from the edge around. Place the rotary on the panel and start at 600rpm and work in the polish at a medium pace in a 2x2 section to disperse the polish evenly. You will see it start to break down and turn into a film. This is to make sure the polish all starts at 2000 grit and the lube is all even.
Work your way back to where you started and start at 1200-1500 and work it in at a slower constant motion pace, but do not sit on one area. Move it around slowly like 1 to 2 inches per second. You will get the hang of it when you get familar with the rotary and the polish. Watch your technique and learn it and watch how it reacts and observe it's break down process. This will help you understand and know how it works and you will become better at it as time goes on. A rotary is serious and watch what you are doing at ALL times.
Always tape off trim and plastic lights. NEVER hit anything with the sidewall of the pad and this will result in a burn FAST! If you are working on softer paint, use 106ff on a white LC pad first, if that does not work then use the SIP and the Orange pad at 1200 rpm max.
As for wool pads I do not see it neccasary unless the paint is beat. As much as I love wool and use it for faster details, foam and SIP will correct alot. I have tried the edge wool pads with the SIP and it will dust a bit and micro-marr a tad bit. An orange foam pad is the way to go. Last month another member came to my house with his new black vette and he had a foamed wool so we tried it out on it and under 1500 watt halogens it still marred, but removed the defects much faster. For wool I still use and suggest Presta polishes as they are the best for wool. For foam SIP is the best correction polish.
Follow that with 106ff on a white LC pad at 1200 to 1500 and the finish will jump from great to amazing. When finishing with 106, after working the polish into the finish, slow the speed down to 800 rpm and this will give you a 100% swirl free surface with no buffer trails at all.
Always use clean pads and never mix any polishes together!
When you pick you buffer off of the ground make sure there is no dirt on the handle from the ground and wipe it before you put it on the car.
Always use precaution with everything you do and you will never have any problems.
Hope this helps alot!!!!!!!!
Ryan
Ryan, you have no idea how much that just helped, I was going to get wool pads today but now I think I will stick with orange LC. I have a bunch of orange LC already, but they are the low profile 5.5" pads as well as 5.25" ccs from danase.
I had a hell of a time working with the orange pad though on the rotary, I couldnt control it at all. They tell me wool is *alot* easier to control.
Jim
I had a hell of a time working with the orange pad though on the rotary, I couldnt control it at all. They tell me wool is *alot* easier to control.
Jim
imported_rydawg1
New member
kleraudio said:
That is 100 hours of intensive research on 30 different cars along with all kinds of techniques. With these easy techniques you should have it come out perfect and hopefully no issues.
Good luck and hope all goes well.
imported_rydawg1
New member
As for wool, yes they do cut better. I remember when I stated I used wool on here, everyone looked at me wierd until they started seeing my results. I think it was me and David Fermani who really pushed the wool along with Anthony Orosco. After that everyone started using the wool and found it to be very easy. I am glad the wool myth is behind us now and most people here are having excellent correction results with it.
I did try the SIP with wool and noticed some dusting a bit. I think Bryan (gmback3a) had the same problem too with it. If you want to use wool, I would also pick up some Presta Swirl remover as it is an excellent wool pad products that is super easy to use or even OP if you have it. I still use wool all the time on all the used cars I do.
Either way you will finish off with 106ff on a foam polish pad. 106ff is amazing on a polish pad via rotary.
SIP on an orange pad replicates the look of wool and is the closest you can get. It just will not cut as fast. SIP as a one step without a finish polish is a 3.5 level shine. Most brand new cars are a 3.5 level shine when new. The 106ff will bring it to a level 5 shine.
I did try the SIP with wool and noticed some dusting a bit. I think Bryan (gmback3a) had the same problem too with it. If you want to use wool, I would also pick up some Presta Swirl remover as it is an excellent wool pad products that is super easy to use or even OP if you have it. I still use wool all the time on all the used cars I do.
Either way you will finish off with 106ff on a foam polish pad. 106ff is amazing on a polish pad via rotary.
SIP on an orange pad replicates the look of wool and is the closest you can get. It just will not cut as fast. SIP as a one step without a finish polish is a 3.5 level shine. Most brand new cars are a 3.5 level shine when new. The 106ff will bring it to a level 5 shine.
Todd@RUPES
Just a regular guy
Ryan is truely a master on one of the best in the world behind a rotary, IMO.
ConglomrationAL
New member
I've never used SIP before, but I can usually get great correction with OP and yellow presta/edge wool pad. Never have to use OC anymore as my goto.
I pretty much agree with everything Ryan said, but, I really do like wool as a cutting pad alot better than orange LC pads and I really like Edge ALOT better than LC in terms of pads.
Rydawg is the man though.
~Albert
I pretty much agree with everything Ryan said, but, I really do like wool as a cutting pad alot better than orange LC pads and I really like Edge ALOT better than LC in terms of pads.
Rydawg is the man though.
~Albert
Thanks alot guys for all your help!
I ended up ordering a custom wool pad from Edge, Green on one side, Blue on the other. I want to get comfortable with wool before I start buying more pads and even moving up to the yellow wool.
Ryan, did you have any problems with the Blue Edge pad and 106ff, seems like I had to use *alot* of polish to prime the pad.
If you did have problems with blue edge, what pad would you recommend for 106ff?
I ended up ordering a custom wool pad from Edge, Green on one side, Blue on the other. I want to get comfortable with wool before I start buying more pads and even moving up to the yellow wool.
Ryan, did you have any problems with the Blue Edge pad and 106ff, seems like I had to use *alot* of polish to prime the pad.
If you did have problems with blue edge, what pad would you recommend for 106ff?
countrysquire
New member
It looks like you're well on your way, based on your excellent work on the door. You've really gotten some great advice and I like the idea of 'messing up' your work so that you can try different techniques to correct it. You'll be able to put some NICE swirls and holograms in the paint when you get the wool pad, so you'll know how to fix other guy's crappy work!
Let me add to what has already been suggested. As you gain more experience your comfort level will rise and it's easy to forget that it's not a PC in your hands. Keep your concentration level high and really pay attention when you are near edges. Stay cognizant of the direction the pad is turning when you approach the edges to minimize paint removal. I taught myself to buff in the late '70s with a 5000 RPM "buffer", wool pads, and compound, so I had to learn how to be careful (after more mistakes than I care to remember.) With the products and tools available now as well the first class advice you get here, you will be fine.
Let me add to what has already been suggested. As you gain more experience your comfort level will rise and it's easy to forget that it's not a PC in your hands. Keep your concentration level high and really pay attention when you are near edges. Stay cognizant of the direction the pad is turning when you approach the edges to minimize paint removal. I taught myself to buff in the late '70s with a 5000 RPM "buffer", wool pads, and compound, so I had to learn how to be careful (after more mistakes than I care to remember.) With the products and tools available now as well the first class advice you get here, you will be fine.
thanks countrysquire! Good post, hey one question, when you say to be aware of the direction that the pad is spinning close to edges, which part of the pad has the most tendency to burn, the part coming "off" the paint, or the part of that pad that is coming back "onto" the paint??
Thanks
Jim
Thanks
Jim
countrysquire
New member
Definitely the part coming back on to the paint is where the friction is created.
countrysquire
New member
Coupe said:
That's because you know what you're doing! Drive by a local "detail" shop or a used car dealer and watch some of those guys at work with their wool pad tilted about 30 degrees from the surface. Plus, when wool puts a swirl in the paint, it's in there!
imported_rydawg1
New member
Thanks Todd and Albert for the nice comments!
Todd your excellent with the rotary too.
Todd your excellent with the rotary too.
Like Ryan said the presta polishes work great with the presta/edge wool. I really like the presta 1500 with the green edge wool. I have also used P1500 with the black wool when serious cutting is needed. Bret and I had a red porsche this past friday that had one panel with serious swirls. Went as much as black wool with presta UCC (Ultra Cutting Creme) no luck and even wetsanding with 2500 would not remove the defects. :nervous2:
Anyway the UCC was much thicker and you could really feel the grit in the polish. I think I prefer the strada 1000 compound more. Ryan what is your experience with UCC? Please remember that the UCC and Strada 1000 are very heavy cut compounds, expecially when used with black wool.
Anyway the UCC was much thicker and you could really feel the grit in the polish. I think I prefer the strada 1000 compound more. Ryan what is your experience with UCC? Please remember that the UCC and Strada 1000 are very heavy cut compounds, expecially when used with black wool.