First polishing experience with the Flex 3401

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Xcessiv

New member
Hi,



I'm very new to the detailing world and just bought a Flex 3401 (dual action). Here's the paint under 2x 250w bulbs:



Polish01.jpg


Polish02.jpg




Here's what I bought:

1x Flex 3401

2x Grit Guard Bucket Insert

1x Riccardo Clay Lubricant

2x Lake Country CCS 6.5" Blue

2x Lake Country CCS 6.5" Orange

2x Lake Country CCS 6.5" White

10x Tornado Buffing Towel

2x 100% Sheepskin Mitt

1x Poorboy's Super Slick & Suds Wash

2x Snappy Clean Foam Pad Cleaner

Trim tape



1x Riccardo Clay

1x Menzerna SIP

1x Menzerna Nano

1x Poorboy's EX-P

1x Poorboy's Natty Blue



I was wondering...

1) With the SIP, what speed/pad should I start with? My initial plan was speed 5 and white pad, followed by speed 5 and orange pad if it doesn't work, followed by speed 6 and orange pad with slightly more pressure if it doesn't work.

2) With the Nano, what speed/pad should I start with? My initial plan was speed 5 and white pad.

3) What about the sealant & wax? With the 3401 or by hand?

4) I saw some videos on youtube with the PC, they suggest making reallllly slow movements up-down-left-right to ensure that the polish breaks down. Since the 3401 is different, I guess the rule is also different? What's the optimal movement speed for each phase?



Thank you!

Regards,

Yan
 
IMHO, *all* of your product choices are top notch.



As for speed, don't worry about using max, max speed is your friend. That applies for the SIP and the Nano. For max shine, do two seperate applications of the Nano polish. One using the white pad, the second using the blue.



My personal preference is to apply sealants and waxes by hand. It's much easier to control where the stuff is going by hand than by DA.



Don't stress too much about what kind of pattern you use to polish. Just make sure you are consistent in the number of passes over each area, and keep the buffer head moving at all times.



Let's see some pics when you're done! :)
 
Great choice of products, I use pretty much all the pads you bought w/ my flex and im happy with it. Now im guessing these pads are all new so you might want to run them under hot water first and then dry them to loosen them up a bit, especially the orange ccs it can get a little grabby sometimes. Also if your flex came with a side "soft vib" handle, use it! I just started using mine a few weeks ago and it makes polishing side panels and lowers areas so much less difficult compared to the overhead bale handle. Enjoy and post some pics when you finish.
 
I did my first test tonight on a small area... WOW, the Flex really rockz. :worship2:



1) Clay. I'm not too convinced of this step, the paint felt the same before and after. I'm not sure if I did it properly.

2) SIP. I started with the white pad at speed 4.5. The results weren't very good, still 30% scratches remaining.

3) SIP try #2. I used the orange pad at speed 6, with a bit more polish. WOW! 0% scratch remaining.

4) Nano polish. I used the white pad at speed 6 with a decent amount of polish. It came out really nice.



Here's the result before the sealant and the wax:

Polish.jpg




Not bad for a first polishing experience ever!



Some questions...

1) Is there a video on how-to clay?

2) I don't have pad cleaner yet. What's the best "home solution" to clean pads?



Thank you.
 
Results look awesome, especially with no LSP. With clay sometimes your shocked by how much surface contaminants you pick up and sometimes your shocked by how little get picked up. Im not familiar w. riccardo clay but it might be a very fine grade and its harder to pick up contaminants w. a fine clay, I found this out using Sonus green. If you want a video on how to clay check this one out see if it helps, again great job on the correction.



How to Video - Pinnacle Car detailing video from wash to wax
 
Thank you guys!



One more question. Can I:

- polish this weekend

- leave the car in a garage 1 week

- then seal / wax 1 week later?



Will the job be as good or if I should avoid leaving the car polished without any protection?
 
Excellent results!



On a side note, that "before" pic has got to be one of the WORST swirl jobs that I've ever seen. Looks absolutely horrible!
 
Here's the result of the first side of my supercharged Stang:

AfterPolish01.jpg


AfterPolish02.jpg




I'm not 100% satisfied yet. Still some scratches remaining and I wasn't able to remove 100% of the Natty's Blue wax. When looking at the paint with 500w of halogens, there are some barely noticable clouds. Any tips, except elbow grease?
 
That looks great!



I just bought a Flex and am waiting for it to arrive. I am a little nervous as this will be my first attempt at machine polishing. Your post has really eased that.



How easy was it around the smaller areas (fender flares, side air intakes) ?



I am going to use it on my Porsche 996 and am wondering how it will be on all the curves. Did you just carefully use the outer edge of pad?



How much pressure did you need?
 
Flyer007 said:
That looks great!



I just bought a Flex and am waiting for it to arrive. I am a little nervous as this will be my first attempt at machine polishing. Your post has really eased that.



How easy was it around the smaller areas (fender flares, side air intakes) ?



I am going to use it on my Porsche 996 and am wondering how it will be on all the curves. Did you just carefully use the outer edge of pad?



How much pressure did you need?
Click to expand...

You'll really like the Flex. :drool:



The 6.5" pads aren't too big for smaller areas, yes I carefully used the outer edge of the pad on the side air intakes and similar parts.



You shouldn't have problems with the curves of your 996. It'll take more time than a perfectly flat car, but it's not a show stopper. The pads are smooth enough for this.



I let the Flex do the job (no pressure) on swirled areas and put around 20 pounds of pressure on scratched areas.



Have fun!
 
superchargedg said:
Nice stang but do you want to race........................................j/k.
Click to expand...

Hehehehe! The only way to race remotely would be by comparing our 1/4 mile time and trap speed. :chuckle:



BTW guys, here's a shot until stronger sunlight.



Sunlight01.jpg
 
I have to send my supercharger to Vortech so the car will be useless for 1 month. I've decided to give M105 a try in order to get rid of the post-polish scratches.



Is it a good idea?



Is it dangerous for the paint?



Which pad should I use? LC Foamed Wool 6.5"?



How should I proceed?



Thank you.
 
Xcessiv said:
I have to send my supercharger to Vortech so the car will be useless for 1 month. I've decided to give M105 a try in order to get rid of the post-polish scratches.



Is it a good idea?



Is it dangerous for the paint?



Which pad should I use? LC Foamed Wool 6.5"?



How should I proceed?



Thank you.
Click to expand...



Honestly, I think you'd be better off/happier with M95 than M105. M95 is much easier to use. It works just like any other polish. Apply it, break it down til it's gone totally clear, then remove the residue. It also (arguably) leaves a better finish. It has just as much cutting power as 105 does, too. And did I mention it's about half the price? :)



Yes, you would use the LC Foamed Wool 6.5" with your Flex. You would then want to follow that up with something like UF, PO106FF, etc. with a white (or softer. Even a grey/black would probably work) foam pad. Then if you *really* want to go gloss-crazy, follow *that* up with PO85RD or FPII on a grey/black, blue, or red finishing foam pad.



Since you have black paint, I'd follow that up with a good glaze and a nuba.



Beautiful car, btw.. Sorry to hear you're having blower problems. That sucks. :(
 
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