First polishing experience - Black swirled car

Xcessiv

New member
Hi!

My 4 years old black paint is getting pretty swirled after all these years without a complete polish. I wax it 2-3 times per summer, but now I think it really needs some serious care.

Here's the paint under 2x 250w bulbs:
Polish01.jpg

Polish02.jpg


Here's what I plan on buying:
- PC 7424
- 5" Backing Plate
- Lake Country 6.5" CCS pads: 1x orange, 1x white, 1x blue. 1st question: should I buy more than one? Especially for the white one?
- Tornado Buffing Towel. 2nd question: how many?
- 1x 100% Sheepskin Mitt
- 1x cheap mitt for the dirty areas
- 2x buckets (1 for soap, 1 to rinse)

Products and steps:
- Poorboy's Super Slick & Suds Wash. 3rd question: does it need to be clayed or if I can go directly to SSR2.5?
- Poorboy's SSR2.5 with white pad first. With orange pad if white isn't mild enough.
- Poorboy's SSR1 with white pad. 4th question: or should I replace SSR1 by Poorboy's Professional Polish?
- Poorboy's EX-P with white pad
- Poorboy's Natty's Paste Wax with blue pad

5th question: do I forget anything (tool, material, product)? Do you suggest replacing products or adding ones?

Thank you.
 
1st- Yes buy a couple of each. You will find that your pad will get a buildup of product on it and it will be nice to put a new one on.

2nd- at least 10

3rd- I would probably do a clay job on it. Always good to clay and it doesn't take very long.

4th- Nope stick with the SSR1 it will clear up the remaining haze from the 2.5 w/ orange pad

5th- Maybe some painters tape to tape off the trim and some sort of trim dressing. Clay too i don't see that on your list. I'm sure others will give you some other tips.

Lastly i would like to welcome you to DC. :howdy

P.S.- I would just start with 2.5 on the orange pad those are some pretty bad swirls. Make sure you go with the Natty's Blue on the black paint ;).

-Chris (aka Pockets :cool:)
 
Welcome to the group:howdy

Everything that Pockets said is spot on...

I would clay first, get rid of that surface contamination before you start into he polishing...

my only suggestion would be work slowly over the area, let the buffer do the work, you've got some good swirls there, but if you take your time you should get most of them down.

can't wait to see the results
 
First off welcome to the family.:welcome: Pockets and Stephan definitely hit the nail on the head just take your time if you have any questions get back to us there are plenty of members more than happy to help you out.:D
 
Welcome to DC ... also remember that it will take at least a few passes with the orange pad to remove most of the shown problems ;)
 
Some people told me that the PC couldn't handle that kind of bad swirls and that 6.5" pads were too big for such heavy correction. Is it true? :(
 
I agree with all the previous posters. Before you do anything to this car first examine what has caused this problem.

What were you washing the vehicle with?

Were you drying it after wash..I see hard water spots on bumper?

What kind of soap where you using?

What kind of towel were you drying with?

I think what you did is more important than what you do on a 4 year old vehicle.

I would also recommend that for the first polish that you not use the halogens because they show way too much at times. Especially for your first attempt at polishing...
 
I guess it depends on what level of quality you are looking to get to...Remember that most cars 4 years old no matter how good they are polished under strong halogen lamps will show missed defects.

Since you have a PC start with that and see how you do, the best thing about the PC is that its safe, you would really have to work at it to damage the paint. The PC may not get them all out but will do a very nice job in making the paint 100 times better then it looks now, under normal lighting conditions...
 
You may also want to consider using PB's Black Hole glaze after polishing and prior applying the EX-P and Natty's. It will help cover up some of the imperfections that don't come out from the polishing and give the paint an even deeper, wetter shine.
 
Some people told me that the PC couldn't handle that kind of bad swirls and that 6.5" pads were too big for such heavy correction. Is it true? :(

The 6.5 pads will work, but the 5.5 pads would make the correction easier. Good luck and post some pics when you are done.
 
Xcessiv Mentioned something that I have read a hundred times on various forums.
You must use a rotary to remove serious swirls a PC will not do it :confused:

Now everyone knows the PC WILL remove minor swirls so that means it is capable of removing the clear coat so why is it that some miss guided people believe that you can not remove serious swirls with a PC.

Now I understand why pros want a rotary it is much faster but this BS that keeps circulating on forums that a PC will not remove swirls like in those photos is just plain wrong.

If anyone who doubts me if you furnish the car and I will show you that I can completely remove ALL the clear coat with a PC.

The only difference is it will require much longer with a PC than with a rotary :rant:
 
Black Bart what it boils down to is simply patience. Most professional base there opinions on time multiplied by dollars...

The PC will accomplish pristine results but it will take a bit of patience. A lot of patience which is absolutely necessary when detailing personal vehicle. I use rotary on customers and PC on my own for the most part.

I don't recommend the rotary for a first time user even though it is not that difficult, BUT and this is a big but, a rotary in a novice hands can leave you scratching your head and rubbing your brow the second you catch something improperly with it.
 
Black Bart what it boils down to is simply patience. Most professional base there opinions on time multiplied by dollars...

The PC will accomplish pristine results but it will take a bit of patience. A lot of patience which is absolutely necessary when detailing personal vehicle. I use rotary on customers and PC on my own for the most part.

I don't recommend the rotary for a first time user even though it is not that difficult, BUT and this is a big but, a rotary in a novice hands can leave you scratching your head and rubbing your brow the second you catch something improperly with it.
Yes I understand why the pros use a rotary.
I have and occasionally use a rotary but what I'm talking about is those who will tell you that you can not remove serious swirls with a PC.
It will take a Looooong time but it CAN be done
 
After reading about the Flex, I'll order it!

1) Should I change anything in my order? Less aggressive polishes? Other pads?
2) Approx. how many polishing jobs can I do with 32oz bottles of each polish?
3) I guess the Sonus pads won't work with the Flex? Too small?
 
After reading about the Flex, I'll order it!

1) Should I change anything in my order? Less aggressive polishes? Other pads?
2) Approx. how many polishing jobs can I do with 32oz bottles of each polish?
3) I guess the Sonus pads won't work with the Flex? Too small?

1: I wouldn't change anything here, you still want to have a nice compliment of pads and polishes to tackle anytype of finish thats presented to you.

2: Not sure but it should last you awhile, I am not sure if there is a number you can put on it.

3: I use the 6.5" LC pads, I am not sure how small the Sonus pads are that you are describing, but you want to make sure the backing plate isn't overlapping exposing it to the paint surface.
 
Here's the final decision. Will I need anything else? Will I get a good finish with this selection? Is pad lubricant necessary?

1x Flex 3401
2x Grit Guard Bucket Insert
1x Riccardo Clay Lubricant
2x Lake Country CCS 6.5" Blue
2x Lake Country CCS 6.5" Orange
2x Lake Country CCS 6.5" White
10x Tornado Buffing Towel
2x 100% Sheepskin Mitt
1x Poorboy's Super Slick & Suds Wash
2x Snappy Clean Foam Pad Cleaner
1x Trim Tape

1x Riccardo Clay
1x Menzerna SIP
1x Menzerna Nano
1x Poorboy's EX-P
1x Poorboy's Natty Blue

Big total: VERY EXPENSIVE :( :( :(
 
Looks good and expensive, you can use a light mist of water as pad lubricant. I tend not to use it unless I am with the rotary as I feel it helps reduce hopping, but with my Flex I have not had to condition the pad.
 
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