First Impressions of Finish Kare 1000p

SuperBee364 said:
Rob, I hate to speak for Accumulator...



Heh heh, you and I are always saying that about each other yet it's always a pretty safe bet that we'll be on the same wavelength :xyxthumbs



That said, Rob Tomlin might find a few diffs to consider on this particular topic.




Rob Tomlin said:
Accumulator: you've used Collinite 845 IW and FK 1000p correct? Do you have any opinions on how these two products compare to each other? Things like ability to shed dirt, protection from the elements, longevity, and looks?



Basically, what SuperBee364 said, with a few additions and minor differences in experience.



The 845 can do a *tiny bit* of concealing, just enough that I can say it does more than the FK1000P, which is sealant-like in its "show every flaw quite clearly". No biggie, use something like DWG/etc. before the FK1000P (I read here that it works OK over stuff like the P21s GEPC too, never woulda thunk it but that's what somebody said).



The 845 is one of the most trim-friendly products ever, as if it were made for that use. Perfect on anything, even rubber. While I have better luck with FK1000P on such surfaces than SuperBee364, it can be tricky and [insert whole host of caveats here].



Looks-wise, 845 is pretty much a "regular bright, reflective wax". Sorta in the #16/P21S camp. FK1000P is simply unique, very sealant-like but not really a Zaino-look. Yeah, also bright and reflective and if you want lots of depth you'd better top it with something like FK's Pink Wax. Still, I like it better on the Yukon's Carbon Metallic than I thought I would, especially now that I've lived with it for a while. It really does have a unique, signature look.



Protection- as noted, FK1000P creams 845 and most anything else. The one exception is heavily layered KSG, which I've even had resist mechanical/abrasive marring! Nothing's quite the same as getting a thick acrylic coating of KSG on there, it really is like having a protective plastic coating. The (now sold, and good riddance!) MPV had *MUCH* softer paint than any of my other drivers, yet it stayed much more marring free even though it took far more abuse (both in use and in washing); the KSG simply protected it so well that it never got as marred up (relatively speaking ;) ) as the pampered vehicles with much harder clear. No way for me to exaggerate how well that KSG worked out on that vehicle, never experienced anything like it. The FK1000P is just a thinner sacrificial coating and the paint can be marred just as easily as when protected by any other normal LSP.
 
Thanks Accumulator.



I'd like to address one comment that you make. You say "Protection- as noted, FK1000P creams 845 and most anything else". You then go on to talk about KSG as being the exception, but you don't explain the differences in protection and dirt shedding ability between FK1000p and 845. I find 845 IW to shed dirt very well thus far, so I have a hard time with the concept that FK1000p "creams 845" regarding protection.



Thanks!
 
Rob Tomlin said:
Thanks Accumulator.



I'd like to address one comment that you make. You say "Protection- as noted, FK1000P creams 845 and most anything else". You then go on to talk about KSG as being the exception, but you don't explain the differences in protection and dirt shedding ability between FK1000p and 845. I find 845 IW to shed dirt very well thus far, so I have a hard time with the concept that FK1000p "creams 845" regarding protection.



Thanks!



Sorry, poor response on my part.



The FK1000P really does shed dirt better than 845, and it keeps on doing so for a long time whereas, IME, 845 gradually loses that ability to some extent. You know how 845 sheds dirt when it's nice and fresh? It's like FK1000P is at least that good for a lot longer. I first noticed this on wheels, where one application of FK1000P kept them "LSPed" longer than multiple applications of 845 (FWIW, I was never impressed with 845's longevity/durability until I started layering it, which did make a diff).



With regard to the actual "protection", I can still get etching from bugs/birds/etc. with 845, especially if I let such stuff stay on there for a long time. Zero such etching with FK1000P, and I'd be embarrassed to say how long I've let some nasty stuff remain on the paint before finally washing the vehicle. And yeah, baked on nasty stuff simply washes away even with my oh-so-gentle wash techniques, which isn't always the case with 845.



Note that I sure don't think 845 is lacking, so for me to say "FK1000P creams 845" is pretty significant.
 
This has been an instructive thread. I for one am looking forward to watching 1000p's performance this winter. I hope it proves as durable and dirt-releasing as everyone says. As already mentioned, I do plan to return to UPGP in the late spring, no matter how well 1000p performs, as I love both UPGP's WOWA dimension and its applicability to paint, trim, and cladding. Durability doesn't mean as much to me during the non-winter months, since it's so easy to apply a fresh coat of UPGP. But that being said, I must acknowledge that special look (I cant' really find the words to describe it) that 1000p seems to bestow. I hope I'm not being persuaded by the testimony of Bence and Accumulator. I think I really do see it. I think ... :bolt
 
Accumulator said:
Sorry, poor response on my part.



The FK1000P really does shed dirt better than 845, and it keeps on doing so for a long time whereas, IME, 845 gradually loses that ability to some extent. You know how 845 sheds dirt when it's nice and fresh? It's like FK1000P is at least that good for a lot longer. I first noticed this on wheels, where one application of FK1000P kept them "LSPed" longer than multiple applications of 845 (FWIW, I was never impressed with 845's longevity/durability until I started layering it, which did make a diff).



With regard to the actual "protection", I can still get etching from bugs/birds/etc. with 845, especially if I let such stuff stay on there for a long time. Zero such etching with FK1000P, and I'd be embarrassed to say how long I've let some nasty stuff remain on the paint before finally washing the vehicle. And yeah, baked on nasty stuff simply washes away even with my oh-so-gentle wash techniques, which isn't always the case with 845.



Note that I sure don't think 845 is lacking, so for me to say "FK1000P creams 845" is pretty significant.



Thanks for the follow up, I appreciate it!



akimel said:
This has been an instructive thread. I for one am looking forward to watching 1000p's performance this winter. I hope it proves as durable and dirt-releasing as everyone says. As already mentioned, I do plan to return to UPGP in the late spring, no matter how well 1000p performs, as I love both UPGP's WOWA dimension and its applicability to paint, trim, and cladding. Durability doesn't mean as much to me during the non-winter months, since it's so easy to apply a fresh coat of UPGP. But that being said, I must acknowledge that special look (I cant' really find the words to describe it) that 1000p seems to bestow. I hope I'm not being persuaded by the testimony of Bence and Accumulator. I think I really do see it. I think ... :bolt



I think it was last year that FK 1000p was named "Detailing Product of the Year" at Detailing World?
 
Rob Tomlin said:
I think it was last year that FK 1000p was named "Detailing Product of the Year" at Detailing World?



Thats correct. And it's Bences fault that I am using 1000P as well :D
 
Bence said:
Wow, this thread is like from the old days!!! I LOVE IT!



Supe, great to see ya here again!



Thanks, Bence! :) Glad to see you're here, as well. I have a list of Autopians that have taught me a ton about detailing, and yours is right there at the top.
 
Hey SuperBee, our family vacation this summer was in Utah. Drove right through St. George.



I came home with 1100 pictures on my 32GB flash memory card! :eek:



Amazingly beautiful state that you live in!



4881337564_bae2b0a47e_o.jpg




4916300959_898bd51324_o.jpg




4867915686_6a2a3067a5_o.jpg
 
Wow, Rob, those are some amazing pictures....



Yes, the view out of my windows in the morning is absolutely stunning. The summers here are quite hot; we stay about the same as Las Vegas, through the summer, at least. Winters are fairly mild, no snow but a few cold days. My wife was born and raised in St. George, so after I got based out of Las Vegas we moved back to her home town last fall. We've moved twice in the last year. :( Since i'm based in Vegas, it means I drive a long way to work. We're considering moving to vegas, but with two young kids, it's tough. Not a lot of detailing work here in St. George, and there's already one really good detailer here. In fact, he's on Autopia (Renu is his Autopia name) every now and again. So I kinda hate to barge in on his territory as it's his main source of income, for me it's (just?) an obsession. So I'm not really trying to build up a clientele like I had in Salt Lake, but I still manage to do a few cars here and there. :)



Next time you pass through St. George, you darn well better look me up! :D I really need some help unpacking all these detailing supplies... ;)
 
Accumulator said:
FK1000P is simply unique, very sealant-like but not really a Zaino-look. Yeah, also bright and reflective and if you want lots of depth you'd better top it with something like FK's Pink Wax. Still, I like it better on the Yukon's Carbon Metallic than I thought I would, especially now that I've lived with it for a while. It really does have a unique, signature look.




I use 1000P exclusively - does topping it with Pink Wax make that much of a difference? I got some samples with my original FK order, but they gave me glass cleaner and 2180, which I didn't see much difference with. I have tried DWG with 1000P, but DWG (1st gen) looks terrible on my paint.
 
mhuie said:
I use 1000P exclusively - does topping it with Pink Wax make that much of a difference? ..I have tried DWG with 1000P, but DWG (1st gen) looks terrible on my paint.



Dunno about the Pink Wax, I don't top sealants myself :nixweiss



Interesting that you didn't like the DWG, I haven't tried mine yet.
 
Accumulator said:
Interesting that you didn't like the DWG, I haven't tried mine yet.



I can't wait for your opinion on it. I too found it to be less than the hype. It does fill ok, but on well polished paint, does nothing for me.
 
yakky said:
I..on well polished paint, [DWG] does nothing for me.



Eh, that's been my experience with most glazes. But then I'm working on less-than-fascinating colors these days.



I am sorta looking forward to trying it on my pal's Jag MKII next year. I had to thin the clear *SO* much last time that it simply cannot be corrected again, and it's picked up the invitable marring after two years' worth of show seasons. The DWG oughta be just the thing for that one, and probably for my Yukon as well. Who knows, I might even like it on *my* Jag (if I ever get it out of mothballs).
 
I put on a third coat of 1000p today. I want to reiterate how easy this wax is to apply. The wax is hard, but all it takes is a few spins of the applicator within the tin--I love tins that are large enough to spin the entire applicator--and I was good to go. I think I may have applied the wax a little too thick on the hood (no matter how hard I try, I can't seem to achieve Accumulator's whisper-thin application) but the wax was very forgiving. After allowing it to haze, I had no problem removing it. If 1000p proves as durable as billed, I will be very happy. What an outstanding value this wax is--$16 for a 15 oz. tin!
 
akimel- Sounds like you waited long enough between coats to avoid the dreaded pseudo-holograms :xyxthumbs



And, heh heh...I guess my applications of FK1000P weren't quite that "whisper thin" after all, looking at the product residue along certain edges of my PPF :o
 
This is a great thread, a lot of good info (as usual on this forum). I ordered some 1000p this week, hoping it will be here by this weekend so I can do a full detail on my truck. I have a silver 2003 Tacoma. Being silver, it's always hard for me to do really thin applications since it's so hard to see the product on the paint. I'm thinking of applying the first layer via my PC and then other layers at least a week a part by hand. I think applying it via PC may ensure it's on pretty thin and give me better coverage, we'll see!
 
wtownsend81 said:
... Being silver, it's always hard for me to do really thin applications since it's so hard to see the product on the paint. I'm thinking of applying the first layer via my PC and then other layers at least a week a part by hand. I think applying it via PC may ensure it's on pretty thin and give me better coverage, we'll see!



I actually find it *harder* to apply most things as thinly by machine as I can by hand (never tried the LC Gold pad though). See how it goes, but be prepared to do it by hand; to me, the FK1000P seemed a bit "hard" for PC application.
 
....I finally applied a 2nd coat to the wife's car this past weekend. This was my second wash with 1 coat of FK1k on the car and it may just be the power of suggestion but it seems to me that dirt does appear to release easier now. ....and the couple of bug remnants I had to contend with came off with some gentle coaxing of my wash mitt.
 
Accumulator said:
I actually find it *harder* to apply most things as thinly by machine as I can by hand (never tried the LC Gold pad though). See how it goes, but be prepared to do it by hand; to me, the FK1000P seemed a bit "hard" for PC application.



Thanks for the info. I'm going to be doing some polishing with the PC as well, so I'll probably try it since I'll have it out just to see. I picked up some plastic puddy knifes today, I'm thinking maybe I can use them to spread the 1000p onto the pad. But, I've never used 1000p before and mine hasn't arrived yet, so maybe it is even too hard to do spread it that way. If all else fails, a good appicator and an arm always works!
 
Back
Top