Question: What changes to optimum rotary technique would you experienced users recommend to a beginner?
I recently used my Makita 9227C for the first time – other than practice on test panels. Although I was satisfied with the outcome, I didn’t get hologram-free results immediately. As I made adjustments to my technique, I realized that I didn’t know what the trade-offs were. What’s the result of using high speed with very light pressure? I had no idea. Keep in mind that I didn’t care about efficiency, cost, or the amount of work involved; I only cared about acceptable results (no damage, adequate defect removal, and shiny paint). What advice would you give a beginner with such basic goals?
Here’s how it played out:
Car: Black 1994 BMW 325is
I started with Lake Country foamed wool pads and Megs 105. I used 900 rpm on the Makita and planned to do 4 passes on each section. In practice, I often lost track and did 3 – 6 passes and sometimes overlapped previously buffed sections. I have the “new” Megs 105 and working time was not a problem. I expected holograms at this stage and I got them.
I found the foamed wool pads very easy to use. I’m new at this and the foamed wool was easier to keep flat, followed contours better, reached difficult places easier, and cut better than the foam pads I had experimented with for correction (Edge yellow and orange with Megs 105). I found that one application of Megs 105 gave me the correction I wanted. To stay on the safe side, I didn’t go for max correction, even though there is plenty of clearcoat.
I followed the Megs 105 with Megs 205 on a blue Edge foam pad at 1500 rpm per the directions on the container. I was pretty confident when working on the flat surfaces, but I knew that I was doing a poor job on the on the vertical surfaces. When I pulled the car out into the sun to check results after an IPA wipedown, I was disappointed to find substantial holograms; less than from 105, but still more than I expected.
Hoping that the holograms at this stage were typical – rather than crappy work –I broke out the Ultrafina and an Edge white pad and did the hood at 1500 rpm. When I checked for holograms, they were improved, but undeniably still there.
I concluded that the second stage needed to be done again using better technique. When I re-applied the Megs 205 on an Edge blue pad I reduced the speed to 900 rpm, reduced the size of each area, concentrated on keeping the pad flat, and further reduced speed if I necessary to prevent “chatter”. I also took more care to do exactly 4 passes on each section. The results were adequate. There was still some minor hologramming, but I thought it would be corrected by the Ultrafina.
I made some further changes to my technique when doing the 3rd stage with Ultrafina and an Edge white pad. First, I did one complete pass at low speed, then two passes at 900 rpm, and then finished with a final pass at low speed. I also reduced speed and transit time anytime I wasn’t getting the smooth buffer movement that I sought. When I checked in the bright sun, I was pleased – and relieved - to find no holograms. Someone with more experience, or higher standards, may be able to find grams where I didn’t, but I was satisfied. I finished the car with KAIO and 2 coats of KSG. It looks OK for a 15 year old daily driver.
I recently used my Makita 9227C for the first time – other than practice on test panels. Although I was satisfied with the outcome, I didn’t get hologram-free results immediately. As I made adjustments to my technique, I realized that I didn’t know what the trade-offs were. What’s the result of using high speed with very light pressure? I had no idea. Keep in mind that I didn’t care about efficiency, cost, or the amount of work involved; I only cared about acceptable results (no damage, adequate defect removal, and shiny paint). What advice would you give a beginner with such basic goals?
Here’s how it played out:
Car: Black 1994 BMW 325is
I started with Lake Country foamed wool pads and Megs 105. I used 900 rpm on the Makita and planned to do 4 passes on each section. In practice, I often lost track and did 3 – 6 passes and sometimes overlapped previously buffed sections. I have the “new” Megs 105 and working time was not a problem. I expected holograms at this stage and I got them.
I found the foamed wool pads very easy to use. I’m new at this and the foamed wool was easier to keep flat, followed contours better, reached difficult places easier, and cut better than the foam pads I had experimented with for correction (Edge yellow and orange with Megs 105). I found that one application of Megs 105 gave me the correction I wanted. To stay on the safe side, I didn’t go for max correction, even though there is plenty of clearcoat.
I followed the Megs 105 with Megs 205 on a blue Edge foam pad at 1500 rpm per the directions on the container. I was pretty confident when working on the flat surfaces, but I knew that I was doing a poor job on the on the vertical surfaces. When I pulled the car out into the sun to check results after an IPA wipedown, I was disappointed to find substantial holograms; less than from 105, but still more than I expected.
Hoping that the holograms at this stage were typical – rather than crappy work –I broke out the Ultrafina and an Edge white pad and did the hood at 1500 rpm. When I checked for holograms, they were improved, but undeniably still there.
I concluded that the second stage needed to be done again using better technique. When I re-applied the Megs 205 on an Edge blue pad I reduced the speed to 900 rpm, reduced the size of each area, concentrated on keeping the pad flat, and further reduced speed if I necessary to prevent “chatter”. I also took more care to do exactly 4 passes on each section. The results were adequate. There was still some minor hologramming, but I thought it would be corrected by the Ultrafina.
I made some further changes to my technique when doing the 3rd stage with Ultrafina and an Edge white pad. First, I did one complete pass at low speed, then two passes at 900 rpm, and then finished with a final pass at low speed. I also reduced speed and transit time anytime I wasn’t getting the smooth buffer movement that I sought. When I checked in the bright sun, I was pleased – and relieved - to find no holograms. Someone with more experience, or higher standards, may be able to find grams where I didn’t, but I was satisfied. I finished the car with KAIO and 2 coats of KSG. It looks OK for a 15 year old daily driver.
