First car with DA

Try some Poorboy's Pro Polish.
I find chemical polishes work better for water spots.
Meguiars also makes a product which you might be able to pick up locally.
I've never used it but if you try it let us know if it worked for you.
Maybe a white or orange pad. I wouldn't suggest using the yellow one on a newer car.

Meguiar's : Water Spot Remover : Product
 
kenny.bacon said:
Water spots can be a tricky thing. Sometimes they come off with a simple DA, sometimes they are more difficult. It seems to me it really depends on what's underneath them. For instance Some cars that roll through my work have been waxed and such. Therefore the water spots are just on the outside of the LSP and come off rather reasonably. Cars that have rarely been well taken care of or maintained those water spots will fuse directly onto the paint and are considerably more difficult to get out. It also depends greatly on the quality of water and such. High mineral content = really hard water spots. Where I live I couldn't care less if it rains on my car. Those water spots come off when I wash it. However the underground sprinklers I tend to worry about.
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I have been taking care of this car from the mile 2 on the odometer - the issue is that we have a very high mineral content in our water, which has obviously been transferred to the paint.

pwaug said:
Probably need a heavier compound, but don't go with 105 as it's not beginner friendly. HD Cut is very easy to use as it has a long working time, little to no dust and removes easily. Megs Ultimate Compound would also be a better choice (not as much cut as 105) and you can get it OTC.

Are you doing test spots before doing the entire car? You should get your technique, product and pad combo set with test spots producing the final look you want before embarking on the whole car.
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I did a couple test spots (hood and roof) and when I wasn't able to remove them with the products I had on hand, I moved on. Would Menzerna be a "better" product to use (for user friendliness)?
 
ShawnF350 said:
Try some Poorboy's Pro Polish.
I find chemical polishes work better for water spots.
Meguiars also makes a product which you might be able to pick up locally.
I've never used it but if you try it let us know if it worked for you.
Maybe a white or orange pad. I wouldn't suggest using the yellow one on a newer car.

Meguiar's : Water Spot Remover : Product
Click to expand...


I'm not stuck on Meg's products.

The car was a 2008 Nissan Altima (graphite) that has seen car-wash washes for its entire life. What would you suggest using the yellow pad for?
 
I just looked back at your first post.
If you have the Gold jeweling pad, which is very soft, it won't be firm enough to polish out those water spots.
Use it for applying wax.

Just to double check. Do you have yellow heavy cutting pads or the yellow(gold) jeweling pad?
 
ShawnF350 said:
I just looked back at your first post.
If you have the Gold jeweling pad, which is very soft, it won't be firm enough to polish out those water spots.
Use it for applying wax.
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Facepalm!!!

I am an idiot. I have my pad reference guide on the wall in my garage and saw that yellow was a cutting pad and didn't even think that they were gold in color. No wonder the water spots weren't affected by the products!
 
If the pads you listed above are what you have. Then your Pink is the heaviest cut pad you own currently. Correct?
Good luck on your next polishing session..lol
 
"Waterspots" can be interpreted different ways...are we talking about mineral deposits that're stuck to the paint, or etched clearcoat from nasty water drying on the vehicle (if that's an issue you need a better LSP), or both?
 
Accumulator said:
"Waterspots" can be interpreted different ways...are we talking about mineral deposits that're stuck to the paint, or etched clearcoat from nasty water drying on the vehicle (if that's an issue you need a better LSP), or both?
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Mineral deposits stuck to the paint. I will take some pictures this weekend.
 
I think the biggest thing to remember with the DA (I've been using a PC 7424 for years) is to let the machine do the work. I believe there's a natural tendency to move the arms too much, too fast (much like using a vacuum as if it was a manual floor sweeper). Go slow and let the machine do it's job.
Also along with product is the selection of pad density. I think all these different pad densities are more a way to get us to buy more pads. Frankly, I don't use the softer pads much at all and prefer the orange or yellow pad for most compounding and polishing (I just might not apply as much pressure). Speaking of pressure, I mark my pad backing with a sharpie line to better ensure against too much pressure which could slow or even stop the spin.
 
MiVor said:
I think the biggest thing to remember with the DA (I've been using a PC 7424 for years) is to let the machine do the work. I believe there's a natural tendency to move the arms too much, too fast (much like using a vacuum as if it was a manual floor sweeper). Go slow and let the machine do it's job.
Also along with product is the selection of pad density. I think all these different pad densities are more a way to get us to buy more pads. Frankly, I don't use the softer pads much at all and prefer the orange or yellow pad for most compounding and polishing (I just might not apply as much pressure). Speaking of pressure, I mark my pad backing with a sharpie line to better ensure against too much pressure which could slow or even stop the spin.
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I only applied pressure when I wasn't getting the results I was looking for. Also, my backing plates are marked with a sharpie (something I learned here!).
 
Here are the water spots I am speaking of -

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axfa0y.jpg
 
ShakingHorizons- Those are nasty looking!

I'd do a chemical decontamination both to remove the obvious issue and to neutralize anything that's in the pores of the paint.

Then I'd correct it with something a lot more aggressive than M205 (M101, M105 (which I find easy enough to use), or Ultimate Compound). Then final polish with something like the M205.

Then I'd figure out a LSP that will prevent it from just getting that bad all over again.
 
Accumulator said:
ShakingHorizons- Those are nasty looking!

I'd do a chemical decontamination both to remove the obvious issue and to neutralize anything that's in the pores of the paint.

Then I'd correct it with something a lot more aggressive than M205 (M101, M105 (which I find easy enough to use), or Ultimate Compound). Then final polish with something like the M205.

Then I'd figure out a LSP that will prevent it from just getting that bad all over again.
Click to expand...

I saw previously in this thread to use Valugard "B", but I am only finding that in a 3 piece set (A, B, C). Also, while searching water spots on this forum, I saw mention of using diluted white vinegar - will that work? Otherwise, what do you suggest?
 
ShakingHorizons said:
I saw previously in this thread to use Valugard "B", but I am only finding that in a 3 piece set (A, B, C). Also, while searching water spots on this forum, I saw mention of using diluted white vinegar - will that work? Otherwise, what do you suggest?
Click to expand...

I haven't ordered from ValuGard for a while, but I thought that the three components of their decon. system were available separately. Maybe not..

Other companies are selling "waterspot removal" products these days, but I haven't tried any except the FinishKare one (and that stuff can be nasty, I wouldn't recommend it).

IMO the Distilled White Vinegar won't be potent enough.

And no, I wouldn't wash the car with CLR from the hardware store either ;)
 
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