Finishing with a DA vs Rotary

Lonnie- Some might call the Cyclo a "long throw" machine, and that's what I've used for jeweling/burnishing with great results.

IMO there are a number of Finishing Polishes that'll work fine for this. All we're *really* doing is ramping up the level of finish beyond the step where we leave the finish basically marring-free. I've been happy with 1Z High Gloss and HD Polish. Depending on how hard/soft the paint is, lots of different products/pads would work fine for this.

Cyclo?; now there's a machine that has fallen into the back pages Autopia history. Seems to me much respected Autopian Scottwax's Avatar picture was of him polishing with a Cyclo.
Like you say, Accumulator, experience, and I am sure some experimentation, has taught you which polishes and pads combinations and techniques work on what paints and colors.
I guess there is no "magic formula" for jeweling.

That's one of the reason's I subscribe to this forum and read these post from fellow Autopians who are will to share their experience for my benefit.
 
Like you say, Accumulator, experience, and I am sure some experimentation, has taught you which polishes and pads combinations and techniques work on what paints and colors.
I guess there is no "magic formula" for jeweling.

That's one of the reason's I subscribe to this forum and read these post from fellow Autopians who are will to share their experience for my benefit.

Yep! And one of the reasons why we need shelves full of different products. Some days I'll run into paint that my "go-to" products just flat out don't work on.
 
I don't have shelves of different polishes, I have 15 products all up or everything as a pro and that's it. Liquid wise anyway
3 abrasive polishes, two toppings
 
Yep! And one of the reasons why we need shelves full of different products..... .

Don't tell that to my wife who does not 'understand" the concept of " there's a right tool for every job" (or in this case a car-care chemical). In her defense, however, to use a $25.00 tool ONCE (or not at all, like many of my tools) is a waste of money. I must admit, I am not the most mechanically-inclined person, BUT I do have the tools (and car-care chemical collection).

I quote Phyllis Diller's statement about her husband Fang: "If you put a hammer in Fang's hands, you have roughly two objects with the same IQ!"
 
I like rotaries because of how smoothly they can operate, but as always, the threat of burn through is greater if you don't keep the pad flat and moving. slower speeds work best for me. dan did make a typo above in that rotaries actually turn faster towards the center of the pad, not slower. that area will definitely heat up and burn through faster if you're not careful.
 
Cyclo?; now there's a machine that has fallen into the back pages Autopia history. Seems to me much respected Autopian Scottwax's Avatar picture was of him polishing with a Cyclo

Yeah, Scott used one for a while.

I'd thought that with Rupes buying Cyclo Toolmakers the good ol' Cyclo might get more attention..but no, doesn't look that way.

Other than not accomodating certain contours and not being the most aggressive thing for *serious* correction, the Cyclo is simply superb. Best built electric tool I've ever had of any kind, period. Easy as can be to use, even one-handed (I once recommended the Cyclo for a guy who only had one arm).
 
I use my rotary as a first pass on every detail I do and 9 times out of 10 I will use it to finish,although I do use the rupes 15 to get real close to things,the trick with the rotary is the heat and how you control it, for example in the depths of winter when you have no heater in the work area,your best friend is your rotary to heat up the clear enough to get it to a working temp and keep it there,as for the best shine at the finish,i have used both and couldn't call it,all I would say is that the rotary gets there a damm site quicker than the da,
and just as a side note every time rotary is mentioned here the word burn is used,well I have been using a rotary since 1985 and have yet to burn ANY paint,yes you have to take care but its like anything once you are used to it,having said all of that if I was doing cars that only have a few swirls and general dealer damage I would probably be more inclined to go the da route,but alas I don't have that luxury as my bread and butter work is scratch removal on very tired cars,to each their own
 
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