Finally $*!?%# Up, Questions

About $30 at Home Depot. You'll need one that specifically is for paint spray, that has both organic vapor cartridges and particle filters.
 
dan46n2 said:
For the first coat use a very light coat, wait ten minutes in between coats, the second coat use a little heavier application, then after that you can go fairly heavy as long as it doesn't run. I like to put maybe 6 layers of clear knowing that a lot of it will be knocked down so I can get zero orange peel. If your car already has orange peel on the rest of it you wouldn't want to do this because it won't match the rest of the car. Then wait 48 hours or more before sanding. Be very careful polishing because the paint is still somewhat soft and takes a while to reach full hardness. I would try to polish it only with a PC at first and wait a few weeks or as long as you can before going to a rotary if it's needed. If you sand up to 3000 grit though a rotary won't be necessary.



Also try to overlap the paint about 30-50% of the width of the spray. Hold the can about 10 inches away from the paint, it should say on the can exactly how far away to hold it. Make sure you mask the rest of the car against overspray and wear a respirator because 2 part clear is much worse on your lungs than a one part like the duplicolor clear. Once you activate the can to mix the 2 parts together the can will only last 24 hours.
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Dan, out of curiosity, how does the 2 parts get mixed together in one can?
 
Dan, I used Duplicolor clear on a chip repair. Put on 4 coats, wet sanded with 2000 and 3000 and polished with Menz. Did I just waste my time?
 
Thanks setec. This will be a good learning experience for me too.



Should I wetsand between coats or is that only if I'm going for a completely flat OP free surface? I actually want a little OP to match the rest of the surface.



Again, will the paint flake or something if I just spray the spot and sand it to blend in? Or will there be an uneven surface right there? What the reason for advising against spot spraying?
 
Dsoto87 said:
I'm definitely going to go this route first before I plunk down the cash.



One question, why can't you "spot, spray" it? Will it come ou uneven looking?



Oh, and about how much does a quality respirator run? Thanks guys
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You'll have a ring around the spot repair when you look at it in sunlight or a certain angle. It doesn't matter how well it's sanded or blended you'll be able to see where the spot repair was done.
 
Legacy99 said:
Dan, I used Duplicolor clear on a chip repair. Put on 4 coats, wet sanded with 2000 and 3000 and polished with Menz. Did I just waste my time?
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No, on a chip repair it's not a big deal because even if you wipe it with a chemical that will eat it away all you have to do is reapply the touch up paint. Most touch up paint is done without a clear on top and those can be removed with just alcohol. On a larger area though like you have I wouldn't use Duplicolor clear because you can't just touch it up like a chip repair.
 
Dsoto87 said:
Thanks setec. This will be a good learning experience for me too.



Should I wetsand between coats or is that only if I'm going for a completely flat OP free surface? I actually want a little OP to match the rest of the surface.



Again, will the paint flake or something if I just spray the spot and sand it to blend in? Or will there be an uneven surface right there? What the reason for advising against spot spraying?
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I don't wetsand between coats, I just use a lot of coats and knock it down at the end to get rid of the orange peel. You could sand between coats but you would have to wait about 48 hours after each coat to be able to sand. You may not need to sand it at all if you want a little orange peel. Spray it and see how it comes out, if you want a little less OP then do some anding.



Don't just spray the spot, trust me I've tried this and it won't come out right and fixing it is a lot harder. You are more likely to hit the basecoat trying to fix this mistake because the ring that is made where the new clear coat meets the old clear coat is very hard to remove.
 
dan46n2, great information here, man. Thanks for sharing. Definitely one of the more informative threads we've had in a while.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Were you using a block? I'm not sure a PTG really would have saved you, you can never really be sure how much of the build is clear, unless you have one of those that can read both layers but they only work on non-ferrous and cost a jillion dollars.
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Always assume no more than 1.5 mil clearcoat thickness and never remove more than .3 mil when wetsanding. That gives you .1 mil to remove when polishing out the sanding marks and a .1 mil cushion over the critical 1 mil clearcoat thickness you never want to go under.
 
One other thing I like about SprayMax is that the high glamour gloss version that I used is very glossy and doesnt need any buffing if you want it to have some orange peel to match the rest of the car. If you do sand it to take out the orange peel make sure to use a sanding pad (Meguiars E7200) which the sandpaper is wrapped around. This prevents leaving finger marks because without it your fingers have different amounts of pressure and it will leave indentations in the clear coat. As you go higher in grit you want to increase the stiffness of the sanding plate if you have stiffer ones. This will make sanding the paint as flat as possible easier.



Also the spray pattern is very wide (almost a foot in width) and the paint comes out very fine, this is not your regular rattle can. It's as close to a spray gun as you can get in a can.



If you ever burn through a panel this clear coat is perfect for fixing the panel, and if you prep the paint right and spray it on evenly and without runs you won't be able to tell the difference between it and other body panels.
 
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