Finally some REAL results - but new problems!!

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I've been having lukewarm success with products and process up until this point. I have a black Infinity that swirls easily. I've been using Optimum polish and an orange pad on the PC followed by Klass AIO, Klasse SG, and then a coat of Souveran using white pad, gray pad, and hand respectively.



I found that the OP was either ineffective at removing the swirls, or it would remove the swirls and leave micro-marring that I couldn't get out with the Klass AIO. So last night I decided to try something different.



I used OP and a YELLOW pad on half of the hood and then I used Megs #2 Fine Cut Cleaner on the other half. Both did an equally good job at removing the swirls, but both left micromarring. I would say that the OP side was significantly worse at micro-marring. So I finished the whole hood with the #2.



Then I followed it with a finer polish and a white pad (Megs #9 Swirl Remover 2.0). Here are the results. The left side of the hood has been done with the #9, the right has not.



P6020005.jpg




Then I wanted to try the Klasse AIO again, since it is my understanding that the Sealer/Glaze must be applied on top of a coat of AIO for best results. Here is what happened. The AIO left a film that I could not for the life of me buff off.



P6020006.jpg




I finished the whole hood in the #9 and took some pics outside. The sun wasn't out so its not that great.



P6020008.jpg




So what is up with the AIO? What is that film? Also, would another finishing polish improve my results at all? Maybe Menzerna FP or SSR1. Is it possible for one of those to replace the #9 in this process.



What about Klass SG. Does it need the AIO underneath to work right?
 
Instead of the more aggressive steps you took (OP w/yellow pad) I would have used OP on a white pad to remove any final marring. This would have been more effective than using an AIO.
 
My guess would be that the AIO essentially smeared the oils inherent in the Meguiar's SMR 9 which was your preceding step. If you still intend to go AIO/SG then you need a finer polish before the AIO; I use Menzerna FP II and have no smearing afterward. Just speculation on my part.

Good luck.
 
Less- A few ~random thoughts follow:



OP has a very long work time. Be sure you're working it long enough for the abrasives to fully break down. I agree that OP/orange is often too aggressive to achieve a ready-to-wax finish, consider at least doing a final pass with the OP using a polishing pad. And I never expect AIO to do *any* correction, not even the lightest micromarring.



I consider the Meguair's approach and the Klasse approach to be sorta incompatible. IMO the AIO issue was related to the AIO's attempt to clean off what the Meg's #9 left behind.



When I'm gonna use the Klasse twins I use polishes that don't leave anything behind. When I use Meg's polishes (or other leaves-stuff-behind products) I just top with wax, no sealant.



I always use AIO before SG, and I wouldn't expect the SG to bond well to the stuff that #9 leaves behind.



I'd use something stronger than the #9 after the #2, probably #80.



I would expect the FP to be a decent replacement for the #9, but it won't leave the same fillers/trade secret oils behind so you might not like the results quite as well. No experience with the SSR1.



If you like how it looked after the #9, I'd just apply a durable wax like Collinite. My Collinited vehicle sure seems just as well-protected as my KSGed vehicle. I'd choose between a Meguiar's/wax-based approach and a different, Klasse-based approach. Sounds to me like you could've been all wrapped up and satisfied had you just applied a coat of wax after the #9....I like Souveran, but it's just not durable enough for a daily driver IMO.
 
Accumulator, I think you're right. I could be very satisfied just applying a wax after the #9. However, I can still see some faint spider webbing but it's probably not enough to drive myself crazy over on a daily driver.



I was just thinking that a good Sealer/Glaze would fill them in a little and give me a better look. Thus the AIO/SG approach after the #9. So KSG doesn't work without AIO and AIO doesn't work with #9. Does that mean that the #9 isn't really correcting the swirls, it's just filling them in?



Sounds like I need a replacement for the #9. Maybe something like a combination of Menzerna Micro Polish and Menzerna Final Polish from Autogeek. Maybe just the FP. Do either of those contain fillers/oils.
 
never use OP on a yellow cutting pad. Use it on an orange pad and then follow that with a white pad if needed. You probably aren't working the OP long enough to fully break it down.
 
wannafbody said:
never use OP on a yellow cutting pad. Use it on an orange pad and then follow that with a white pad if needed. You probably aren't working the OP long enough to fully break it down.



I've used it with an orange pad, and not had very good results. The yellow pad left more spider webbing than the orange, but it took out more defects. I would rather insert another step in my process to fix the spider webbing than keep the defects left by the orange pad.



Besides, I didn't end up using the OP anyway. I think the Megs #2 did a better job and left less spider webbing, even with the yellow pad. I'm very happy with that portion of my process.



It's the #9 that I'm trying to figure out now.



1. Does it correct swirls or just fill them. Maybe a little of both?

2. What polish will perform as effectively, but finish clean? (SSR1, Menz FP, Menz Micro Polish, XMT 1?)

3. Will more than one application of the #9 help?

4. What is a good sealer/glaze that can hide any remaining defects and go on top of #9. KSG is out since it requires AIO which is incompatible with the #9.

5. Would you recommend another application of #2 with a white pad before the #9?
 
#9 does more filling than correcting. I would probably use, as Accumulator mentioned, #80 if you intend to remove the swirls.
 
Here's what autogeek says about #80



Speed Glaze deposits a layer of breathable paint protection as you apply it so your paint retains its color and shine longer



It sounds like it leaves a residue like the #9. Will it leave streaks and film? or does it finish clean?
 
That, I'm not sure about. I believe that the #80 also has filling oils, and I have a feeling that you would probably see the hazing if you tried AIO. However, #80 definitely has more cutting power than #9.
 
Less said:
..I can still see some faint spider webbing but it's probably not enough to drive myself crazy over on a daily driver...I was just thinking that a good Sealer/Glaze would fill them in a little and give me a better look. Thus the AIO/SG approach after the #9...



Right idea, glazes to fill the remaining marring, but wrong way to go about it: the Klasse twins don't do that despite the "sealant glaze" name. In fact, they often make the marring more visible. I never use the Klasse twins unless I can first attain (and then maintain) a basically flawless finish. SO I don't think they're right for this application.



the #9 that I'm trying to figure out now.



1. Does it correct swirls or just fill them. Maybe a little of both?



Used by hand/PC the #9 does about 95% filling and maybe 5% correction.



2. What polish will perform as effectively, but finish clean? (SSR1, Menz FP, Menz Micro Polish, XMT 1?)



Of those, I've only used the FP. IMO you have to attain a better finish before you bother with that, and there are products that I like better anyhow. But yeah, it finishes clean and you'd see your paint's true condition and you could use the Klasse twins after it. But I'm not sure that's a viable plan.




3. Will more than one application of the #9 help?



Probably not as much as you'd like. The plan would be to get the correction as good as you can and then use the #9 for a (very) little extra improvement.



4. What is a good sealer/glaze that can hide any remaining defects and go on top of #9. KSG is out since it requires AIO which is incompatible with the #9.



Again, note that the KSG isn't the kind of glaze that hides stuff. Products that do that include the Meguiar's "pure polishes": #3/#5/#7/#81/Deep Crystal step #2. Of those I kinda prefer #5 New Car Glaze. Very user-friendly.



But FWIW I'd be using 1Z products for this. They leave waxes and fillers behind but also do real correction. They're very user-friendly. For this final "filler glaze" step, I'd use their WaxPolishSoft and then I'd just top with a heavy carnauba like Collinite.



The problem with #2 (pretty aggressive) then #9 (*very* gentle) is that it's just too big a jump. Going from #2 to #80 is more likely to work out.



Yeah, #80 leaves stuff behind and yeah#2 using AIO will clean that off and probably reveal residual marring. SO I wouldn't use the AIO, I'd top the Meguiar's-polish-approach with wax instead. Let some hidden stuff stay hidden.




5. Would you recommend another application of #2 with a white pad before the #9?



Yeah, and I'd use the #2 until all the original marring was replaced with the #2's micromarring. Then I'd use #80 if sticking with Meguiar's stuff. I'd consider a coat of #5 (for additional filling) and then top with wax. I honestly wouldn't bother with the #9. People buy it because of the "swirlmark remover" name and because it's commonly available, but IMO it's not the right product for most applications.



Check your yellow pages for autobody/paint supply places. They often have a lot of Meg's stuff in stock and they can order whatever they don't have.
 
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