Final results for first detail

[Bunky]

That could be debateable, but it would have to be someone more knowledgeable than me.

Longevity? Maybe, but I don't think many sealsnts will outlast Collinite #845 Insulator Wax.

In my first test of Collinite 476s, I was disappointed. I had been doing a 7 product wax test on my truck hood and used 476 exclusively on the top of the cab.

There must be something in the Carolina pollen that is not in the ice/salt up north since it is not significantly better than the others.

I also applied various products on the sides in 2 to 3 ft sections and I could not tell much difference the following week.

There is still protection on the paint

I was googling on pollen and it seems pollen is acidic and salt (like sea water) is more alkaline.

 

[CharlesW]

In my first test of Collinite 476s, I was disappointed. I had been doing a 7 product wax test on my truck hood and used 476 exclusively on the top of the cab.

There must be something in the Carolina pollen that is not in the ice/salt up north since it is not significantly better than the others.

I also applied various products on the sides in 2 to 3 ft sections and I could not tell much difference the following week.

There is still protection on the paint

I was googling on pollen and it seems pollen is acidic and salt (like sea water) is more alkaline.

The only 2 times I used 476s, it was a problem for me to remove. That might have been an operator problem, but I never used it again and have no idea as to how it works for others.
The Insulator Wax was very easy to use so that's the only Collinite product I presently own.
As far as durability,the 4 to 6 weeks I'm looking for didn't seem to be a problem for it.
I might still have about 1/4 to 1/2 a bottle of the IW if you want me to send it to you to add to your wax test.
PM me since we are kind of taking dbinnc's thread quite a way off-topic.

 

[dbinnc]

I am going to do the Wife's 08 Highlander next. It's not that bad, just some scuffs from something she did. :wall
I will try a different approach and see how it works out.

Derek

 

[CharlesW]

I am going to do the Wife's 08 Highlander next. It's not that bad, just some scuffs from something she did. :wall
I will try a different approach and see how it works out.
Derek

When trying something different, whether it be process or product, it might be a good idea to try one panel to see if you are getting the results you want before doing the entire vehicle. If that section looks the way you want it, then move on to the rest of the vehicle.

FWIW, I have never had to use SSR2.5 on an entire vehicle, just the few areas that were really bad.
Depending on the paint and pad, SSR2.5 with a polishing pad will sometimes finish up ready for your LSP.
To confuse you even further, Poorboy's Professional Polish is very pad dependent and can remove a lot of blemishes by itself.

 

[dbinnc]

well, mine had lots of cross-hatching and stuff like that, and I think i didn't have much of a choice but the 2.5, but then again, I am not as experienced and someone prolly could have done the same job with less I'm sure.

So what would one want to use SSR3 on? Extreme oxidization?

 

[CharlesW]

well, mine had lots of cross-hatching and stuff like that, and I think i didn't have much of a choice but the 2.5, but then again, I am not as experienced and someone prolly could have done the same job with less I'm sure.

Back to that "Whatever works for you" thing again.
Your results kind of look like you might have made some good decisions. :bigups

So what would one want to use SSR3 on? Extreme oxidization?

SSR3 is some fairly aggressive stuff and I have never needed to use it. It probably is for pretty serious flaws rather than oxidation. A lot of oxidation can be removed with a less aggressive chemical cleaner like the Pro Polish.
Poorboy would be the one to comment on this.

 

[blk45]

So what would one want to use SSR3 on? Extreme oxidization?

SSR3 is like liquid sandpaper. As Charles mentioned, oxidation is usually better tackled with Pro Polish. Let the chemicals handle it instead of abrasives.

The car looks great btw! :bigups A lot of the process is personal preference, but one thing stands out. I too would have chosen PP or SSR1, not done both. As Charles mentioned (again ) the only way I would do both, is if I tried PP on a section after I used SSR1 and it improved the look. At that point though, I would see if I could achieve the same result with using PP instead of SSR1.

 

[Poorboy]

SSR3 is like liquid sandpaper. As Charles mentioned, oxidation is usually better tackled with Pro Polish. Let the chemicals handle it instead of abrasives.

:exactly:


and SSR3 can be used with a PC, but it is not advised