Feynlab Ceramic...

Is this a product that lends itself to mutiple coats/layers or a one and done deal? An hour or so between layers or a 22ple-ish 12-24hr between coats? Seems like even 5hr later still not cured if fixable at that point.

Hoping this stuff exceeds expectations; sure is a good value.
 
ShakingHorizons said:
Can you elaborate? I have used tier 1 and 2 products, so I would like to hear your feedback.
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I think of lower tier coatings as extended life paint sealants that mostly sit on top of the paint and start to wear heavily after months, not years. This is vastly different than a tier 1 coating that bonds deeply to the paint. The pricing and (lack of) availability reflect the difference.
 
BudgetPlan1 said:
Tier 1 = Pro/Certified only?
Tier 2 = Consumer avaliable?
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That is the current market model, but the important distinction is the difference in chemical makeup. We are finding out that gloss coat is watered down weak sauce compared to opticoat. It makes sense from a strategic marketing standpoint, but of course limits our options as detailers.

Feynlab has a similar tier 1 product only available to trained pros in exclusive regions, but I`m hoping their tier 2 products utilize similar chemistry. A self-healing coating that lasts an honest 5 years like they are promising would instantly be best in class.
 
BudgetPlan1 said:
So if compounding/polishing is to be done,

Wash
Iron-X
Clay
Compound
Polish
Prime (in place of panel wipe like Gyeon Prep)
Feynlab Ceramic?
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Well, gonna give it a shot today on the black vette. Might stick another iron-x in there between compound (to remove what`s left of Uber Ceramic, TAX Moonlight and whatever else I`ve dumped on there in the past year. MEN 2400 with Flex and white/orange force pad) and polish (Rupes ultra fine white on white Rupes pad) before wiping down with prime and coating with Ceramic).

Hope it goes well.
 
Prepped, compounded, decon`d, polished, wiped down...and we`re off!
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Well, that was...incredibly easy. Amazing gloss following application, broke car into top (hood, roof, hatch)left side, right side; apply, go take a nap, get a bite to eat, watch some TV...come back for effortless wipe off. Actually, about 15+ minutes or so dwell time. If`n its got legs, keeps itself reasonably clean this stuff can`t be beat, given the very reasonable cost. Thanks to all for the pointers. Can`t wait to get it wet in a few days and see water behavior on it.

Did I mention how deeply, wonderfully glossy it looks?

Looks and ease of application kinda remind me of 22ple HPC.
 
Car had remnants of WG Uber Ceramic (05/2016) but still pretty normal.

Wash
Ferrex
Wash/nanoskin
Flex 3401, Menz 2400, orange and white LC Force pads
Gyeon Prep
Feynlab Ceramic x 2

Was gonna hit it with Rupes Extra Fine on white rupes pad but I really don`t think it would have brought much to the tsble, if anything.
 
BudgetPlan1 said:
Well, that was...incredibly easy. Amazing gloss following application, broke car into top (hood, roof, hatch)left side, right side; apply, go take a nap, get a bite to eat, watch some TV...come back for effortless wipe off. Actually, about 15+ minutes or so dwell time. If`n its got legs, keeps itself reasonably clean this stuff can`t be beat, given the very reasonable cost. Thanks to all for the pointers. Can`t wait to get it wet in a few days and see water behavior on it.

Did I mention how deeply, wonderfully glossy it looks?

Looks and ease of application kinda remind me of 22ple HPC.
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That`s great to hear it worked out pretty easy for you and glad to hear you like it. Has been around a month since i`ve applied feynlab ceramic and it beads and sheets like crazy. If it holds up then it will be the leader just given the lower cost relative to the other real good coatings.

I was just on their website and they`ve updated added another product called Leveler - to aid leveling and easy wiping of their coatings and even some other mfr. coatings. I`m very intrigued by this now. Keep us updated on how it holds up and the looks.
 
BudgetPlan1 said:
So if compounding/polishing is to be done,

Wash
Iron-X
Clay
Compound
Polish
Prime (in place of panel wipe like Gyeon Prep)
Feynlab Ceramic?
Click to expand...

Based on what I have read, the idea of Prime is to fill the micro pores/voids with their root structure (I assume coating compatible content like a primer ). They say compounding won`t remove it because the pores go much deeper than what the compounding would remove. The idea is none of the compounding and polishing goes into those pores that can later affect coating durability. So I doubt it`s purpose is to be used after compounding but the response richy posted from the pro advises otherwise. Or perhaps compound, Prep, prime , polish , prep (if you`re really worried for it not to be removed) but that`s too many steps.

Also, as seen from their distributor in U.K (Marc, who does a lot of it and has posted several self healing videos too with a brush wire and heat gun). He suggested to spray Prime before compounding and let it stay and dry on surface. The on surface dried residue will be cleared during compounding and also assists in a consistent cut and smoother experience. Prime is not meant to be wiped dry. He has been trained directly by their HQ in Germany IIRC and is the main trainer for others in U.K.

Also their wash has coating properties and meant for maintenance. While it may be obvious, Just mentioning this since you picked it up and listed "wash" as your first step and I assume you meant a car shampoo wash.

Their QD has a lot of fame in the UK side since it`s launch. Great hydrophobics and not letting snow foam stick. Accompanies well as the top sacrificial layer to their coatings.

All above info is theoretical and based on the knowledge gathered from reliable references as a usual method of me narrowing down to products. Will hopefully be getting some as I find someone travelling from US/UK.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
sealthedeal said:
Based on what I have read, the idea of Prime is to fill the micro pores/voids with their root structure (I assume coating compatible content like a primer ). They say compounding won`t remove it because the pores go much deeper than what the compounding would remove. The idea is none of the compounding and polishing goes into those pores that can later affect coating durability. So I doubt it`s purpose is to be used after compounding but the response richy posted from the pro advises otherwise. Or perhaps compound, Prep, prime , polish , prep (if you`re really worried for it not to be removed) but that`s too many steps.

Also, as seen from their distributor in U.K (Marc, who does a lot of it and has posted several self healing videos too with a brush wire and heat gun). He suggested to spray Prime before compounding and let it stay and dry on surface. The on surface dried residue will be cleared during compounding and also assists in a consistent cut and smoother experience. Prime is not meant to be wiped dry. He has been trained directly by their HQ in Germany IIRC and is the main trainer for others in U.K.
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Yep, after getting some help from some of their installers, I skipped the Prime in this case. Next time I use I will use the Prime as a clay lube and not rellay wipe it off from what I`ve gathered. That`ll be interesting from a habit standpoint of usually wiping off the lube.

Also their wash has coating properties and meant for maintenance. While it may be obvious, Just mentioning this since you picked it up and listed "wash" as your first step and I assume you meant a car shampoo wash.
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I washed with a regular auto bathe (Gyeon Bathe in this case); going forward will use Feynlab wash on this car, guess it`s kinda like a Gyeon Bathe+ type of deal.

Their QD has a lot of fame in the UK side since it`s launch. Great hydrophobics and not letting snow foam stick. Accompanies well as the top sacrificial layer to their coatings.
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I kinda got the impression from the Installer Group that the Feynlab Ceramic is kinda meant to stand on it`s own, but what the heck, I`ll give the QD a shot and see if it helps with self-cleaning characteristics after leaving surface with just Ceramic alone for a bit to see how it performs on its own.

All above info is theoretical and based on the knowledge gathered from reliable references as a usual method of me narrowing down to products. Will hopefully be getting some as I find someone travelling from US/UK.
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Appreciate the info...the one downside to the Feynlab right now is the lack of definitive documentation outside of that likely provided to their certified installers. Hopefully they catch up on that side of things soon as I think their consumer offerings (Ceramic and Ceramic Lite) definitely have promise. I think I`ve got a pretty good handle on things now but it was kinda a piecemeal, `anecdotal evidence` effort to get substantive answers. Their Facebook Authorized Installers group was invaluable with helpful info...good folks for sure.
 
Good fortune...just started raining.

Black is Feynlab Ceramic, Blue is Kamikaze

Kami seems to have smaller beads which tend to kinda `evaporate` when rain stops, we`ll see what Feynman looks like. It seems to have larger beads.

Raining: https://youtu.be/aA7oiomHOyA
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