Extreme Waterspots

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djcxm

New member
waterspots.jpg






Any product recommendations to battle these
 
Looks to me like water etching, which can be removed with compounding. I'd try the least aggressive first....KAIO, then IP, so on, so on....shouldn't be to hard to remove :2thumbs:



I should add that you would start the process after washing and claying.
 
It's my belief that waterspotting can occur regardless of the product that you use to seal the paint. Wiping down the car after washing will help and avoiding sprinklers. If there is fresh water on the car wiping down with Duragloss Water Spot Remover or a QD will help prevent that. As for this case you have to polish them out. Try Megs Swirlx or Ultimate compound.
 
The least agressive approach would be to use one of the acid decon products (FK1 or Valugard) and then polish out what remains after.
 
Do water spots sit on top of the LSP or do they etch through it? I'd think if it's just water, it shouldn't have enough chemical power to etch through as it dries.
 
bcwang said:
Do water spots sit on top of the LSP or do they etch through it? I'd think if it's just water, it shouldn't have enough chemical power to etch through as it dries.
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Water never etches anything. It's what's dissolved and becomes concentrated as it dries.
 
So, with time water spots could wear off just as the LSP under them wears off then? It sounds like it shouldn't be so hard to remove water spots yet many people have lots of trouble trying to get them out.
 
I guess I interpreted your post wrong. So there must be an LSP that can protect from concentrated minerals etching through right? It's gotta be a lot milder than other contaminants like road salts and bird bombs which sometimes cause no damage at all if taken off in time.



Unfortunately over here, we have sprinklers that spray the hoods of all the cars in the parking lot every single night. Yet, only the good beading hoods like on my cars get horrendous water spots all over. The other older cars seem to sheet the water so well that there are no spots on them from the sprinklers at all. One of the pitfalls to maintaining a good finish.
 
Yep, but as you've noticed, LSPs don't do much to help the situation. Zaino seems to make the situtation even worse, probably because it beads so well.
 
I ran into some tough spots yesterday on a dark gray Honda. :angry Had AIO with me and that didn't work. I did not have my full arsenal with me because I was just simply helping a friend wash her car to top with a quick coat of wax. I didn't want to wax over water spots so we just wiped it down with a QD to make it shiny and called it good. I'll try the vinegar idea, then PO85RD. Or maybe M205/105 since they work well by hand. I really don't want to drag out a power tool since her paint looks near perfect (except for the spots).

:sosad
 
Setec Astronomy said:
The least agressive approach would be to use one of the acid decon products (FK1 or Valugard) and then polish out what remains after.
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+1.



You gotta get the minerals off the clear coat first (using the decontamination kit), followed by an abrasive polish, as needed, to remove the etching the water has done to the clear coat.



You are seeing two things when you look at a water spot: 1. the minerals actually sitting on the clear coat. 2. The etching in the clear coat caused by the minerals.
 
SuperBee364 said:
+1.



You gotta get the minerals off the clear coat first (using the decontamination kit), followed by an abrasive polish, as needed, to remove the etching the water has done to the clear coat.



You are seeing two things when you look at a water spot: 1. the minerals actually sitting on the clear coat. 2. The etching in the clear coat caused by the minerals.
Click to expand...



Can you recommend a decontamination kit?
 
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