Expectations to high for my PC

M

MrC

New member
I just got my Poorboys stuff (SSR2, PwC, EX-P) and was so excited to try it with my PC. My goal was to remove scratches and swirls while making it "POP" on my black Accord.

1st SSR2/white LC pad @ 3.5: scratches/swirls still there
2nd SSR2/white LC pad @ 5 & 6: Nothing
3rd SSR2/yellow LC pad @ 4: Nothing
4th SSR2/yellow LC pad @ 5 & 6: Nothing
5th SSR2/yellow LC pad @ 4, 5, &, 6 with pressure: Nothing
6th DACP/yellow LC pad @ 4, 5, &, 6 with and without pressue: Nothing

Nothing= little to no change

I made slow passes and fast passes. I worked it until it was almost dry (light dusting). I used a nickle size amount for half the trunk and then less product. Nothing!!! These scratches are not that deep. I've seen worse on the boards with great results. What am I doing wrong? Please don't tell me it's time for a rotary.

Before I detailed I ordered SSR2.5 and VM to take advantage of a sale. Do you think SSR2.5 will help? On a side not, I gave up trying to remove the marks and used all three products on one side to see what they could do. Very impressed!!! Best stuff I have used. The car looks great but when you get close you can see the scratches and swirls. I'll post pics once I can figure out how to.
 
MrC the paint looks good from far as you said, and it seems like you worked it enough. Some things to notice, did the paint get warm? What order did you use these products? Get some closer shots on key areas. I have to admit I want a rotary, but its a big venture!
 
Woob, I used SSR2, PwC, and EX-P (one coat). The paint did not get warm. I'll try to get closer shots it just my photo software won't let me upload a descent shot without lowering the compression. I'll try to figure it out. Thanks
 
The SSR2.5 may help remove some of the spider web marks and light scratches. You might have to make several passes............ work until dry, apply more polish........... work until dry........... and again. Make sure you check the paint if you are making multiple passes with a fairly abrasive product and an aggressive pad. You CAN "overheat" the paint............ yes, even with a PC. While you are making the passes, apply a little (not much) downward pressure to the machine. The added pressure should just barely slow the machine down........... don't "stall" it, so to speak. I repeat............. don't overheat the paint!!!!!

Keep in mind that some scratches look deeper than they are. A PC can only do so much.

Hope this helps.
 
Though the Meguiar's folks don't recommend it, I have used Meguiar's burgandy pad and DACP to remove some fairly bad scratches in the finish of my black Hemi. I set the pc at about 5.5 and applied some pressure. Not enough to stall it. I was sure to really work the product until it STARTED to dry. I followed this with a LC yellow pad and #82 Swirl Free Polish. The results were great.

(And I just bought a rotary and now am ready for anything. :D)

Tom:cool
 
I've had great results with SSR3 and an LC orange pad followed by SSR1/EX/EX-P. The SSR3 will leave a 'hazing' that comes out nicely with SSR1. I found that SSR2 wasn't aggressive enough.

My ride is also a black Accord that was previously owned by a salesman who put 'a lot' of miles on it. I had bad swirls and scratches on the trunk that I was able to get out quite well.
 
tguil said:
Though the Meguiar's folks don't recommend it, I have used Meguiar's burgandy pad and DACP to remove some fairly bad scratches in the finish of my black Hemi. I set the pc at about 5.5 and applied some pressure. Not enough to stall it. I was sure to really work the product until it STARTED to dry. I followed this with a LC yellow pad and #82 Swirl Free Polish. The results were great.

(And I just bought a rotary and now am ready for anything. :D)

Tom:cool
Click to expand...

Yep, I've done the same thing............. DACP/burgundy pad/light pressure. It takes some persistence, and multiple passes, but it can remove more defects than most people think.

Since Poorboy's SSR2.5 is about the same in abrasiveness, it should perform similarly!
 
Man, have I been over this subject lately....I had the same issues with the PC. I tried everything and couldn't remove scratches. I bought a rotary and I am so happy now. The rotary will heat up the paint and the abrasives, thus breaking them down correctly. I believe that is the problem I had with the PC. It just would not create enough heat to break down the abrasives properly.
 
Are you the first owner of the car? reason I ask is if not - could it have been repainted? I have a similar issue where sections of my car have scratches in then under the clear coat - nothing will get them out.
 
I thought about a rotary but I have bought so much for my PC and I'm afraid of what I could do the paint.
groebuck, I am the original owner of the car so thats not the problem but thanks for trying to problem solve for me.
 
it doesnt look too bad to me .. ive had my pc for 6 mos now and its awesome but it cant perform miracles . you know what im trying to say is the pc with the right combo of pad and product will do some repair but now that ive seen cars i did 6 mos ago ive noticed that many of the defects that dissapeared were only filled in with polish and im ok with that .. ive learned to use the rotary and my pc will hide the swirls it leaves behind .. but i have to keep polish and wax on it to keep it looking tops and im ok with that.. anyway id rather use the pc because doing cars by hand on a regular basis really sucks ..
 
Ace Of Spades said:
Man, have I been over this subject lately....I had the same issues with the PC. I tried everything and couldn't remove scratches. I bought a rotary and I am so happy now. The rotary will heat up the paint and the abrasives, thus breaking them down correctly. I believe that is the problem I had with the PC. It just would not create enough heat to break down the abrasives properly.
Click to expand...

No question about it............. a PC has it's limits. For sure, a rotary can/will remove scratches that a PC can't, and it will do it faster. However, a PC can do some pretty nice work when the right pads/products/processes are used.

With a little pressure, a slight tilt of the pad, repeated passes, an aggressive pad, and a fairly abrasive product, it can generate enough heat to burn paint if one wants to push it that far. I proved it to a friend, and it cost him a case of beer (Sam Adam's of course :D )

Of course, I don't recommend that anyone goes crazy trying that unless they know what they are doing.
 
I am not familiar with the pads you are using but I have had good results removing swirls and minor scratches with Meguiars Cutting pad (burgandy) and SSR 2 with the PC set at 5-6.
 
rabbi said:
Trust me Boss.If anyone can burn paint/mess up using a PC it's me.
Click to expand...

Rick, don't get me wrong................. you have to REALLY work at it to damage/burn the paint with a PC. I doubt that you would have any problems using one.

The guy in reference told me......... "a PC is fool proof"! I told him......... "It may be fool proof, but it's not idiot proof"! :lmfao
 
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