EX-P or Meg. #20

AZ Ferrari Man

AZ Ferrari Man

Member
Hey, was wondering as far as the ease of use and cure time which would be better suited for the mobile detailer in need of a fast curing and great polymer paint sealant. I have read lately that alot of people have been using meg's #20 (polymer) lately so I thought I would get some suggestions. I usually prep the car with clay, #82 swirl free polish (Which by the way is awesome and sooo easy to use, and buffs to a mirror) and then finish with either EX-P or NXT. I find it hard to buff EX-P off even though I apply the very thinnist possible and let it cure, I need that ultimate sqeak satisfaction of knowing that all of the product is of the paint. Thanks for the help!

Andrew
 
Andrew are you applying the EX-P with a damp sponge applicator? ...for most people it wipes off with hardly any effort at all:dunno

you can also try just wiping it on and wiping it off with no drying time, i just did this myself and so far so good, but that's another thread;)
 
I havent used #20 yet but I definatly find EXP to be one of the easiest if not the easiest to remove of any product i have used.
 
Poorboy, should I be using a damp applicator pad? Also how much prouct do you guys use? I use about 2 two inch lines around a finishing pad on the pc, am I using too much? Thanks for the help! P.S. Sean how long do you let it cure>

Andrew
 
AZ Ferrari Man said:
Poorboy, should I be using a damp applicator pad? Also how much prouct do you guys use? I use about 2 two inch lines around a finishing pad on the pc, am I using too much? Thanks for the help! P.S. Sean how long do you let it cure>

Andrew
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Andrew ...did you read the directions on the bottle :nono :lmfao ...I'd use a bit less or spread it further...what speed are you applying it with? If applying with a pc ...do the whole car and then wipe off starting where you applied first...that should be about 20+ minutes at least...:hippi
 
Just for the sake of EX-P look, here's a S40 I did using it

s40_2.jpg

s40_7.jpg
 
I've also found EX-P to be one of the easiest products to remove. You could try misting the MF with QD or water before you remove the EX-P. If you put EX-P on too thick, it will be hard to buff off. Just keep spreading the product. It goes a long way.
 
Steve, I apply with PC on speed 3 1/2-4. I have never used a detail spray on a MF to help with removal, I will try that! I have a car to do tommorrow so I willtry it, thanks for the help, PS- Steve, the label is already off the bottle :bass !

Thanks for the help!
 
try applying at 1-2 only and I prefer NOT using any liquids in the removal of the product as this will reduce the longevity of the sealant..sealant should stay dry for 72 for best longevity after application:)

ps how did you lose a label:confused:
 
Poorboy said:
I prefer NOT using any liquids in the removal of the product as this will reduce the longevity of the sealant..sealant should stay dry for 72 for best longevity after application:)
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This is interesting. I have read many times on Detail City and Autopia that when layering sealants to wait 24 hours between layers. Now I see no liquid should be used on the sealant for 72 hours. Are you saying sealants take 72 hours to cure? It's kind of hard to keep a car dry for 72 hours without a garage. Rain, dew, and washing make it almost impossible to keep my car dry over a 72 hour period. If I had a garage I wouldn't need the durability of a sealant.


I wonder how many people are actually layering their sealants with a 72 hour period between layers and not wetting the car? Looks like a durable carnuaba like Collinite or Megs #16 would be the best way to go. No need to worry about liquid interfearing with the curing and weather or not it will bond over this product or that product. Just apply and remove and reapply on a regular basis. Seems much more hassle free to me.
 
Poorboy said:
I prefer NOT using any liquids in the removal of the product as this will reduce the longevity of the sealant..sealant should stay dry for 72 for best longevity after application:)
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Hypothetically speaking, and for the sake of conversation, let's say some people finished with summer last month. :mad: Let's say there is frost on the cars daily. How badly would you guess the frost would affect the longevity of a sealant. Can be a generalization for any sealant. Doesn't really matter, as it's just hypothetical. I mean, who in their right mind would want to live in a climate with 2-3 months of warm weather, right? :brick
 
Anthony A said:
This is interesting. I have read many times on Detail City and Autopia that when layering sealants to wait 24 hours between layers. Now I see no liquid should be used on the sealant for 72 hours. Are you saying sealants take 72 hours to cure? It's kind of hard to keep a car dry for 72 hours without a garage. Rain, dew, and washing make it almost impossible to keep my car dry over a 72 hour period. If I had a garage I wouldn't need the durability of a sealant.


I wonder how many people are actually layering their sealants with a 72 hour period between layers and not wetting the car? Looks like a durable carnuaba like Collinite or Megs #16 would be the best way to go. No need to worry about liquid interfearing with the curing and weather or not it will bond over this product or that product. Just apply and remove and reapply on a regular basis. Seems much more hassle free to me.
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I'm talking for maximum longevity. This can vary from product to product and weather as well as humidity can and will affect sealants. I know from lab testing that a sealant can easily last 6-9 months, but in the practical world 3-4 months is more realistic, which is still longer than more carnaubas. Carnaubas are also affected by weather, especially hot weather, where the oils will evaporate and dry up faster, not removing the protection, but only the gloss. It is often said that gloss and durability with waxes don't go together and that's why many mfg's will add other types of wax and sometimes polymers to extend both gloss and durability.
If you are detailing for a living(other peoples cars), then I would suggest a sealant as there is less maintenence for them, especially if they don't keep it up, if you are talking about most of the people who visit detailing boards, then the "Look" is what is trying to be achieved, and we all know that one warm day, even in the winter they will try to squeeze in a complete detail;)

As for the frost, and god only knows why someone would choose to live in an area that only has two nice months a year:nono :lmfao :rolleyes: it's hard to say, I don't know of any tests that were performed under those circumstances:dunno
 
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