EX or EX-P - Opinions please

H

hboyd_com

New member
A newbie here.... I've got all the supplies including a PC with the Edge2000 pads and I ready to get to work on my 97 Acura RL.

It has a lot of swirls so I am going to be using the SSR1-2.5 products, then a coat of PwC followed by a couple of coats of either EX or EX-P. Whichever I use will then be topped with Nattys.

The Acura is a metallic grape color - sorry, I don't know what the official name is for the paint, but that it what it looks like under a bright light. In a subdued light it almost looks black.

I've read different threads about using Ex or Ex-P depending on whether you want a deep look or a wet look for example, but I don't have enough experience to know what would look best on this car.

I appreciate any opinions.

I also want to do a similar detail on my girl's red Jetta.... so opinions are needed for that as well. Only PP products at this time.

Thanks!
 
hboyd_com,

Tough to say on the Acura................ it may look good with either one. I would try a couple coats of each on adjoining panels............. then you decide.

On the red Jetta, I'm thinking that the EX will look outstanding.

I find that the EX darkens, and add depth. The EX-P gives a nice clear, reflective shine. Tough decision! :D
 
For the lines and color of that car, I'd go with EX-P for a clear, wet look (like a wet mirror).

For the red Jetta, definately EX for a deep wet looking red car. Here is a quick pic of my ride with EX x 3, Natty's x 2.

DSC02346.jpg
 
Thanks for the 2 replys so far.... concerning the Edge 2000 Pads with the PC..... if I am using one product, say SSR 2.5 do I have to switch pads or keep rinsing out the pad or can I do the entire car with one pad and then switch or clean the pad before I apply the next product whether it is SSR1 or PwC or EX, etc?

I guess I want to know whether or not I should order more pads.... and which type of pad I should have more than one of.

I have one of each Edge2000 pad now and I only plan on doing cars in the family.

Thanks.
 
I'll defer to the vets if they answer this, but as a newcomer with the PC and to detailing, I think you should always thoroughly wash the pad before using another compound.

You might also want to designate 1 of the pads as your "SSR" pad and that way, even if you didn't rinse it while going from SSR1 to SSR2, you know it is only a pad with SSR stuff on it. You don't want to have a fine pad that touched SSR and then apply sealants or finishers to your car (IMO).

Keep 'em as separate as possible, with the caveat that if a pad touches similar products it's not as necessary to get every last gram of the previous product out of the pads.

I used SSR2 on my mom's black Camry and halfway through the orange pad was totally black. It came 99.999% clean (you can't see any black on the outside of the pad) but I would not use that pad to apply any sealants or anything on my newer cars.

You might also want to invest in a 2nd set of pads: 1 for any top-of-the-line car you have, another for other cars or friend's cars, if you do those. If I had a Vette for instance, I know I wouldn't want ANY pads used on another vehicle to touch it. It'd have it's own separate pads for every stage I used the PC on it.
 
Also, remember the pads are NOT all the same: some are for "cutting" (polishing), some are light cutting, some are finishing.

While you can use the pads interchangeably, generally, SSR's will go on cutting pads and sealants (assuming you don't do it by hand) will go on finishing or polishing pads. Yes, if you wanted to, you could use a finishing pad with SSR's -- but I think if you are going to use a SSR you want to use a cutting pad and if you want it at "less strength" than just alter the speed setting.
 
Although I'm far from a vet (haven't even put a pad on my PC yet), I will share what I learned @ the Meguiar's clinic last Saturday. . . you should use 1 pad / product and NEVER "mix" products on a pad. Granted they were trying to sell pads & I bought 6 (4 polishing & 2 finishing), but the logic makes sense, in that I don't think that you would ever get EVERYTHING out of the pad. Since they use the velcro method of attachment, they do not recommend washing the pads between uses, but rather just store them in plastic bags (to protect from dust & contaminants).
Just my .01 (discounted for lack of experience!)
Norah
 
I think the new velcro pads are safe to soak in the MF cleaner solutions and water....you definitely can't let the stuff "cake" in the pad, they'll be useless alot sooner.

Yeah, they want to sell you extra pads, but sometimes the sales guy are right and looking out for our best interest. I guess if you really wanted to, you could survive on 2 pads only (finishing, cutting). I wouldn't want to do that -- in fact, I have 2 sets of pads (1 for my own car, 1 for everybody elses).
 
HondaMan said:
Also, remember the pads are NOT all the same: some are for "cutting" (polishing), some are light cutting, some are finishing.

While you can use the pads interchangeably, generally, SSR's will go on cutting pads and sealants (assuming you don't do it by hand) will go on finishing or polishing pads. Yes, if you wanted to, you could use a finishing pad with SSR's -- but I think if you are going to use a SSR you want to use a cutting pad and if you want it at "less strength" than just alter the speed setting.
Click to expand...

I would think the SSR's could be used with a cutting or polishing pad and sealants would almost always be used with a finishing pad or by hand. Am I confused or is this just another way of doing things?
 
Jared, I think you and I said the same thing, no?

HEY!! What happened to the picture of the Pinto? You have the '70's Hawaiin Punch guy now!!
 
I would not use a cutting pad unless the finish was really bad. I mix products, especially SSR's on pads all the time...if you use SSR's correctly, they will completely breakdown and there will be only a smooth residue of product left on the pad. Hand checking by feel is always a good idea, or use a nylon brush to gently loosen anythin embedded. As for using sealants or waxes...always a finishing pad...and washing a pad by hand should not be a problem for velcro, just don't put it on the machine for spin drying.
 
HondaMan said:
Jared, I think you and I said the same thing, no?

HEY!! What happened to the picture of the Pinto? You have the '70's Hawaiin Punch guy now!!
Click to expand...

I removed the Pinto of hopes of having my truck back, but I was shot down again. So I had to put up the Kool-Aid man. Ooooooh Yeah!
 
Poorboy, when I said cutting pad I was referring to a non-finishing pad...not sure if it's a true "cutting pad" per se, but it is the Orange Pad from the SONUS line. I also have the Edge line from Dwayne.

I've only used the 1 Orange Pad on mom's black Camry with your SSR 2.0, medium speed. Did a great job (like I said, the pad was BLACK halfway through the job. You would have sworn the pad was black colored if you didn't see the backside or I told you it was Orange originally). I think I used a medium speed.

As a novice, I want to use slower speeds on the PC since it's easier to control. So I'll use a slightly more aggressive pad in my lineup (again, even the most aggressive in my 2 sets as I understand it are pretty mild compared to what you can do with a super-abrasive pad or a rotary) to compensate alongside stronger SSR's.

So....even though the best results might be to use a finishing pad with SSR1 at speed 6, I would probably use a medium pad with SSR2 at speed 3.5. Or something like that. Maybe the best results for a Pro are to do the other combination, but again, I'm just looking right now to get 80-90% of the way there. Down the line, when I'm better at this, or I have a car that really needs to have it done better (e.g., Vette or Porsche), then I'll hopefully be better with the PC and more knowledgable such that I use the finishing pad + less abrasive + faster speed combo.
 
Don't mix agressiveness of pad and speed of PC. What breaks down the abrasives in an ssr is the heat generated by the PC. An aggresive pad will work on deeper problems - so will a more aggresive product - but the more aggresive the product, the more heat/friction you need to break down the abrasives.. - working something at 3.5 no matter how cutting the pad is may not be enough to break down the abrasives and in that case you could be adding marring to the paint. I work SSR2 and even SSR1 @ 5-6..
 
Hello Fellow Acura Owner!! :)


The Acura is a metallic grape color - sorry, I don't know what the official name is for the paint, but that it what it looks like under a bright light. In a subdued light it almost looks black.
Click to expand...

I think I know the color you are talking about. I would use EX for a deeper shine.

Post some pics when finished. I love lookin at a clean Acura. :)
 
I use SSR's with a polishing pad and I mix SSR's on the pad....as Steve has said above.

I use sealants on a finishing pad.

I always wash them out and I let them air dry or might spin them dry on the PC.

Don't use cutting pads unless the paint is in terrible shape.

PwC is polish with carnuba so you might as well add more carnuba by using EX and then more carnuba by topping with Natty's. Go to it carnuba boy!! :D
 
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