Etched in water spots in non clearcoated black lexus

B

BoNgBlAzE

New member
Hey, I just recently bought a Lexus SC400, and It has very bad water spots on the hood,roof, and trunk. It is black with no clearcoat. I have gone over it with Meguiars swirl remover 2.0 and it didnt do much. I have a PC 7336 with a yellow and a white pad. What products should I use to remove the spots?



Also, Can I use zaino z-2 on my car? I have a full bottle for my last car which had a clear coat.

Thanks
 
I had some light spots on my 2001 Acura CL-S and I was able to get them using Meg's #9 and a yellow CMA pad w/ a 7424. My paint has a clearcoat, and that combination is generally thought of as begin pretty benign. The next step up would be Meg's DACP and a yellow pad.



I'll have to skip the Z question as I'm a Klasse user, but I'd be willing to bet you could find that info w/ a search.



Greg
 
I would start by using Meguiar's M-83-32 and a red foam cutting pad w-7006, with a high speed rotary buffer, about 1500 rpm's...If this does not work consider having the paint surface color sanded with 2000 grit (wet sand), and then high speed buffed, should be done by a body shp.. If water spot's have really been etched in their..the color sanding might be a good choice..
 
I've heard various reasons for this..

-without clear, spiderwebbing is less visible

-the colors look deeper without clear

-cost cutting by only doing single-staged painting



Blacks, reds, and i think yellows don't have clear. I'm probably forgetting a few other colors too. My yellow pads that I dedicate to fi-II come out black after using them on my black is300.



-Raymond
 
Hello,



I've used One Grand Special Touch to remove spots on my black paint but it has a clearcoat. You might want to check it out. I think One Grand also makes a product for non-clearcoated vehicles.



Brad
 
I have non-clearcoated cars and I actually PREFER single stage paint in many ways. In fact, it's USUALLY quite a bit SOFTER (easier to work) than base/clear.



A random orbital will work very well on single stage paint. I VERY RARELY encounter the need to use a rotary on it, let alone wetsand. *I* just don't seem to need the heat/speed even when working with pretty awful problems. In fact, I've cut through single stage using a PC with a pretty mild product.



Products that work on clearcoats will work fine on single stage (but the opposite isn't always true due to the uniformity of abrasives considered "clearcoat safe").



Sorry, I'm drawing a blank on "Finish Restorer".



*I* use a strong-to-medium-strength abrasive to remove water spots on single stage. Something like PI-III RC (pn 05933) with a cutting pad, followed by PI-III MG (pn 05937) with first a cutting pad then a polishing one. BUT..try the MG (05937) FIRST in case that's strong enough for what you're doing. OR use the equivalent polishes from 1Z. Do the bulk of the work with a cutting pad as it will load up with the paint you're polishing off. I haven't used Meg's polishes lately, but the DACP would be a good choice.
 
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