engine detail

I

imported_gfe76

New member
I have a nissan frontier 2002 and suburban 2001...I have been cleaning engines by spraying the engine (while warm) with nozzle from receptacle with Dawn mixture and 90 psi of air pressure...then I let it sit for 3 mins and wash off with outside hot water hose (best thing I ever did was put hot water faucet outside). Question: I don't wrap anything, just try to avoid water on elect box and alternator....am I doing any damage?? The electrical wires/connections get plenty wet....I do blow it off with compressed air/leaf blower afterward and run engine for few minutes....thanks

My mechanic loves to work on my engines because they are so clean..
 
I've been degreasing engines for about 20 years using aerosol degreasers, potent APCs, pressure washers, etc. I usually don't cover anything, but avoid spraying on electrical stuff like you said. The only problems I have had is with a '96 Chevy truck, in which the distributor cap and rotor would corrode rather quickly and require replacement. A mechanic told me it was probably due to my exuberant cleaning regimen. Most engines made since 2000 probably don't have distributors, so you should not experience the same problem that I had.
 
Yea there's alot of misconceptions about this type of practice. I know people that are so afraid to get their engine wet at all they go to extreames. There's nothing much to worry about if you use just a little common sense. I don't cover anything either. And I've never had a single issue with damage. The worst thing I've ever had happen is I got condensation in the cap and rotar on older engines. Just spray them out with the air gun and good as new.
 
I know you must use care when cleaning the Chevy LT-1

(93-97 f-body, 92-96 vets, ect...)



the water will kill the opti spark(not fun to replace and a few hundred $)
 
I generally never cover any engine parts. I do spray away from any potential problem areas. Most newer engines are distributorless ignition and the ecu, etc are protected. I would recommend just using caution and limit the pressure when applying water.
 
Both vehicles have coil-on-plug ignition systems, so no worries about getting a distributor wet.



My technique for doing engines is first, cover the fenders, windshield, etc. with towels, fender covers, etc. so you don't get any chemical on places it doesn't belong, then I usually use Castrol's Super Clean full strength and liberally spray down everything, making sure to get the lower areas, firewall, etc. real good too. Then either pressure wash, or use a heavy spray from a (preferably) hot water source and rinse everything down. Re-apply/scrub heavily soiled areas that didn't come clean the first time. After cleaning and rinsing to your satisfaction, get out the air compressor and blow gun, and blow dry everything. I don't know how I ever got along without compressed air for detailing as long as I did! After the engine compartment is more or less dry, get some cheapo water-based dressing such as Armor-All, or whatever is on sale at the time, and cut it about another 25% or so with water to make a nice thin emulsion. Liberally spray the entire engine compartment, paying special attention to the hoses, convoluted tubes, etc. and also the bottom of the radiator shrouds, and other inconspicuous areas. Get it good and wet...If it's running all over, that's fine. Now, get your blow gun out again, and blow dry the dressing. This will help level and spread it into the smallest little nooks and crannies. Once it's more or less dry, start the engine, turn the A/C on so it runs the fan(s) and generates a little more heat under the hood, and let it run for about 15 minutes or so. This is a good time to start washing the rest of the vehicle. Once it's dry, touch up any missed areas. I've used a small natural fibre paintbrush with a couple sprays of dressing right on the brush to touch up missed areas. Wipe down any excess that hasn't dried with a soft cloth, and that's it!



I know people have their own techniques and opinions, and I'm happy to listen to all of them. The way I just mentioned is the way I've always done engines when I owned my own detail shop, and also when I worked for a dealership doing detailing/prep. I might be right, I might be wrong. I'm always open for suggestions too. You never stop learning new things.



Edit: After degreasing the engine and blowing it dry, this is the perfect time to touch up any paintwork that needs attention. Repainting a rusty engine block can do wonders for the appearance under the hood. Certain engines (like the 4.0L inline 6 in my Jeep) tend to get rusty rather quickly, so I always make sure to have some gloss black on hand for the block and head. An artist's brush with a little paint sprayed into the cap works great for little hard to reach areas, or places where overspray is a concern.

After the paint dries, then proceed to the dressing.
 
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