Engine Cleaning and Detailing?

G

George Wax

New member
I have competely detailed my car inside and out..Now I want to clean and detail my engine..I have a 1999 Ford Cobra Mustang..What precautionary measures shouuld I take..Last time I cleaned my engine, I got some water in the spark plug hole chamber lucky for me..I was able to vacuum it up..I am a firm believer in the CD2 Engine Detailing Kit..comes with an excellent cleaner and engine dressing..They are both Aerosol Can's..However, any recommendation's would be greatly appreciated.You guy's are great...:wavey
 
To clean I use megs APC+. FOr dressing, I tried the megs EK, but found it spotted little droplets all over the area and had to wipe to cover. I now use 303 on engine parts such as rubber/vinyl for now.



I did find a good use for EK. The entire undercarriage is now sprayed with it as well as the wheel wells. Dried nice and hard and glossy. I did the entire underside of my SC430 with it. All suspension and the like and it looks fantastic! Dealership is just stunned as to the condition of it when they put it on the lift.



You could still use EK, but you may be better off using a foam paint brush than a spray. It dries hard as it's some type of commercial wax (smell it, it smells like floor wax).



The 303 I use on just about everything. The aluminum heads need another type of protectant. Who knows, maybe I may put some Zaino on them via my paint gun.



Regards,

Deanski
 
After I dress up the engine I maintain it frequently with q tips and a variety of paint brushes in all different sizes. I won't let dust or grit build up in the engine compartment. You could also use an air compressor or some canned air to get at the spots the brushes can't reach or fit into.
 
I agree with the comments about EK, I just cannot get the finish I want. It just splatters out of the aerosol and leaves a spotty white finish & when I wipe off the excess the shine just isn't there. Pity 'cos it cost me upwards of $55 in the UK. I do agree that APC+ is a great cleaner, use it on engine, upholstery, carpets etc & is dirt (sorry about the pun!) cheap.

Found the aerosol engine detailers available in local accessory shop to be preferable to EK.
 
Before I knew about Engine Kote and 303 I used to use MSLT with good results, maybe glossier than some like but it did last fairly long.

I didn't use the EK on my engine after reading about others with the same comments that it is messy. I just applied some 303 to all the rubber seals and plastic parts, looks very good. It is also ideal for me on my tires and dash. I have the EK for same purposes as Deanski, wheel wells and undercarriage.



Now I reserve the MSLT for tires during rainy days to conserve my 303.
 
Just completed mine about two weeks ago with S100 Total Cycle Cleaner followed by the S100 Engine Brightner. Really has never looked better.
 
Bill D,



Don't you just love the EK on wheel wells and undercarriage? Makes my SC430 look new under there! Dealership keeps busting my stones as to how clean and shiny the undercarriage is including all suspention parts and skid plates!



The 303 seems to work well on all hard plastic, rubber hoses and whatever else. I use those cheap disposable foam paint brush, then wipe off. Nice matte look with protection. the 303 gets used on ALL rubber seals as I got lots!



Regards,

Deanski
 
Deanski, I think you are right about Engine Kote, I do remember this product in training was somewhat splotchy.inside the engine bay..However, it did work really well i..e unercarriage, wheel well's...
 
George,



I find that most was results from some other product such as a dressing or cosmoline still on the areas. Sometimes a good wash of APC+ will resolve that. If not, good old disposable foam paint brushes work well and with a little Rube-Goldberg work by adding a dowel to reach those hard areas, you get those areas done as well.



George, my dealer keeps busting my stones when they get it on the lift. All parts under the car are coated and look new including suspension, skid plates, frame rails etc. They always get a new tech to see what a really well detailed car should look like.



One of the customers at Lexus of Westport is Joey Pants (Ralph from the Sopranos) also a SC430 owner and was looking at mine and said that's one clean car Dino, what the hell are you using on this? Tech came out and told him you have to see the underside, which he did. Joey shook his head and said " You GOT to do my SC when you get a chance"



Regards,

Deanski
 
Deanski,



You and I think so much alike :) :up



I have loads of those foam brushes, they work so well. Yep, my undercarriage is phenomenonal. Can't wait for my first service to see what the techs will say about it :D
 
I bought one of those small portable steam wands from QVC / Home Shopping Network...I think it was under $50 and works great! You can reach impossible places and the steam gently removes everything...plus you don't have to worry about wetting your electrical parts / wires / etc.



For rubber / hoses ... Autoglym rubber cleaner/conditioner is the best I have found...holds 7-10 months easy and keeps rubber looking like new..

:)
 
I have a Steam Buggy and have used it on occasion on the engine. The steam really does loosen up the dirt in hard to reach spots. :up
 
How do you guys get under your cars for the underbody clean? I've got a 2 ton Mercedes SL500 which has about a 5" road clearance, and I can't even get my head under.



Bought some 2 ton ramps, but found them almost impossible to run the car up on... once they skidded out from the back wheels as I was trying to run up slowly.



Then I ran over their edges and the car came crashing down, pinning them underneath. I had to use my hydraulic jack to extract them. Amazingly there wasn't a scratch anywhere, but boy, it gave me a fright.



If this makes me sound like a rank beginner engineer, I'm not - I've had a lot to do with cars over the last 40 years.



But getting under my car is proving problematical to say the least!





Ken Silver

--------------

1993 Mercedes SL500, 1991 Daimler (Vanden Plas), 1991 Miata MX5 ... Finish detailing them, then start all over again...
 
Same thing happened with me with ramps and my Caddy. Ramps got thrown away. I do have a set of metal ones now but am terrified to use them.



I detail a SL once a year but the owner never wants the engine done. I know they are low upfront. Guess the only way to really get at the bottom of the engine compartment is to put it on jack stands and remove all the splash shields. Once they are clean I would use Engine Kote on them.
 
Ken / Bill



Go to Pep Boys and get the Rhino ramps...about $30.

My car is 6" clearance and I use them for everything including changing oil. But when I do a full show detail I pull all the wheels and use jack stands...just seems easier to do it all at once.



Never used Engine Kote...please post how it holds up after wash down..

Frank
 
KenSilver- Besides the RhinoRamps (which are well-regarded), you can always do it the old-fashioned way, with a jack and jackstands. Ask your mechanic about the best way to go about it, each specific car has a "trick" to getting it up/down safely and easily. I did it that way with my Mallett C5 (4-6 step process), and that was a LOW car.
 
I have a set of metal ramps but seldom ever used them. They are too steep to use safely because when you heat the peak,you almost roll off of the front.Very little tire cradle ontop. Then I bought the plastic Rhino Ramps.Lower lift and more gradual grade. I can even get my 5000 lbs.,lowered Lightning with the low clearance front valance up on them without scraping.



Sometimes when its quiet at night,I go into the garage and listen to the metal ramps rust.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top