Engine Bay detailing

Here are the materials I use and info on what I do when doing an engine detail. I am not going to explain step by step instructions as far as how to clean it since it seems to have been covered but here is just another oppinion. You can catch the water with a engine catch mat under it if you have water run off laws in your state or however you would like. I use any degreaser (usuall Optimum Power Clean). First hit the engine down with water, spray the degreaser, let it sit and agitate with brushes, rags, etc. Spray it off however you would like and if you dress the engines then I suggest using "water based dressings" ONLY. Some makes/models will throw error codes when using silicone based and even if it goes down the MAF sensor.

Another thing I didn't know until about 2 or 3 years ago was that some cars will throw error codes if the engine is NOT running while soaking it down. I always leave them running when cleaning and staying away from electricals the best I can. When done I always use an air nozzle and hit the underside of the hood so water doesn't drip down and hit the engine to blow out any water. Be careful on imports such as Honda's, Acura, Nissan and Mazda 626's with the plugs on top. You do not want water going down there or else the car will run like total crap. If you are working on older cars that use points or HEI distributors then even though they are supposed to be sealed, dont start the engine and let the heat from the engine dry it. It will cause condensation (sp) and absorb in the dissy (word used for distributor) and the vehicle will not start or run correctly.

Again, these are my oppinions and what I do. I am not saying they are right or wrong.
 
Relaited said:
..I have mixed feelings about steam in the engine. On one hand, most stuff is covered, on the other, there has been concerns over extreme heat on some of the connectors and plastic elements.



Any thought on stream on the engine?



-jim
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When I was just starting to use my Daimer steamer (a bit more potent than my other one) I failed to consider the seemingly obvious and melted the plastic clip that holds the hood-support rod on my RX-7 :o



Other than that little brain-pause, I've never had any problems steaming engine compartments with the sort of steamers we're talking about on this thread. The really *heavy-duty* steamers that I used back in the day are a whole different animal, but I can't imagine anybody using one of those unless they know what they're doing anyhow.



Just remember that steam is hot and don't direct it at anything heat sensitive for too long a time. Seems that most stuff in the engine compartment is fairly impervious to damage from moderate heat anyhow...consider just how hot things can get in there (esp. the stuff that's conntected to the engine itself).



I have mixed feelings about doing this stuff on a running engine :think: I turn 'em off before I do it as moving stuff gives me the willies and I'd rather risk messing up how the engine runs than get a finger amputated. Yeah, it's easy to say you'll never do anything stupid like that but once it happens it's happened (note that a lot of things turn on/off automatically, perhaps when your mind is on something else).
 
I'm certainly no pro at engines (or anything else for that matter), but I have been having good success lately by:



Spraying the engine compartment down with a good APC. I use either TAW or Simple Green. Simple Green is a bit controversial, though. Some say it'll damage aluminum, but I think they've changed the formula; I never have had it damage *anything*. I've heard that Amazing Roll Off is good for engines, too.



Let it dwell for a few minutes



Hit the "chunky" areas with the steam cleaner instead of using a brush



Use low pressure water to rinse. I just run it through my gas pressure washer, but leave the PW turned off, so it's just hose pressure going through it. If you have a CRSpotless or other de-ionized water, you can just let it air dry.



After the engine is dry, a light coat of CD-2 to finish it off. If there's areas that aren't quite up to standard or there's water spots, some ONR at QD strength and an old raggy MF do a good job of cleaning up the remnants.



Like other have said, be careful of where the water goes.
 
SuperBee364 said:
I'm certainly no pro at engines (or anything else for that matter), but I have been having good success lately by:



Spraying the engine compartment down with a good APC. I use either TAW or Simple Green. Simple Green is a bit controversial, though. Some say it'll damage aluminum, but I think they've changed the formula; I never have had it damage *anything*. I've heard that Amazing Roll Off is good for engines, too.



Let it dwell for a few minutes



Hit the "chunky" areas with the steam cleaner instead of using a brush



Use low pressure water to rinse. I just run it through my gas pressure washer, but leave the PW turned off, so it's just hose pressure going through it. If you have a CRSpotless or other de-ionized water, you can just let it air dry.



After the engine is dry, a light coat of CD-2 to finish it off. If there's areas that aren't quite up to standard or there's water spots, some ONR at QD strength and an old raggy MF do a good job of cleaning up the remnants.



Like other have said, be careful of where the water goes.
Click to expand...



SuperBee, I'm glad you mentioned ARO. I plan on attempting to clean my engine this spring and bought ARO specifically for this purpose. It works really well on tires, wheels, and wheel wells. I think it should do a great job on engines too.:wavey
 
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