Engine Bay cleaning.

C

Changeling

New member
What is the exact progression for cleaning/protecting an engine bay? Meaning 1 step at a time. I am worried about introducing moisture into the engine compartment, should I be, what needs protecting from water and how?



Products, what produces the best results? On another post I made, a knowledgeable detailer had used Megs APC + for some good results but I am totally ignorant in EB cleaning. Please don't hesitate to say what is on your mind in a constructive way concerning the topic.



Changeling
 
Some people like to cover up the fuse box, the intake, and the alternator, but ive had the front of my Jeep under water above the front bumper and it did just fine. Then again, I do Drive a Jeep.. Theres only one. :grinno:
 
tom p. said:
Change, a new(er) car or a filthy, oily, greasy mess?
Click to expand...



Tom, it's a 1999 Toyota Tacoma V6, original (for now)l! Actually it is not really very dirty (TRUTH) , but if I am going to do it all, than I want to do the Engine Bay as well.

Do the experts clean only, use a cleaning and sealent, or use a combination product for the engine bay? This is definitely no show car, but I contemplate getting it as best as I can.

Correction, it would be impossible in my enviroment to keep a show car type configurtion on my truck, It's just going to be the best that I can make it!!

Then there is a new toy!!!! Chevy supposedly has a new Corvette comming out in 07/08/09 that will be GM's answer to Chryslers "Viper", very interesting!

Changeling
 
I know of one detail trainer that says if you are taking more than 10 min. for an engine with dressing, you are taking more time than necessary.

1. He keeps the engine running

2. rinses and sprays degreaser- lets it sit while washing car

3. rinses and sprays down with dressing and that is it..maybe a final wipe, but that's it.

He swears by this method and that the engine looks excellent. He is a top notch detailer so I trust anything he says.



Myself, I've always been worried that I would screw up something in the engine. Recently, I used my vapormaster with some APC and then rinsed. I applied dressing using a mf towel and it came out great. I did not use a degreaser because there wasn't a heavy build up of "gunk" that required that type of cleaner.



From what I am told, the newer engines are protected very well from moisture and it is difficult to harm the components- common sense tells you not to direct your pressure washer up close to anything. I do like the idea of running the engine, but you don't want cold water hitting anything very hot- this can cause cracking of some parts- my friend's windshield did this when she rinsed it with cold water on a hot day.



Rob
 
My $.03:



When things are in good shape and the car fairly new -- I am very comfortable with the No Rinse misting strategy followed by a quick wipe down with a MF (old) towel. To me, this is a complete no-brainer, offers great results and minimizes the potential risks.



Other peoples' cars I would likely pass on - - I just don't want the liability of somebody calling me the following week saying they're having XYZ problems with their car.



My own cars following the winter season -- I am a huge fan of a modest pressure washer for a couple of reasons. It's very fast, its ability to clean is vastly superior to using a hose and it does an amazing job at removing dirt in the toughest places.



I have a 1400psi Karcher. It's perfect for this and you end up applying far less water than using a garden hose. So, I mist a little APC+ (or whatever) on a slightly warm engine, let dwell for a few mins and rinse with the pressure washer. I will then dry with either air pressure or a couple of towels. I avoid starting the car for 1/2 hour or so. I might use a tooth brush and the purple Castrol cleaner, if needed, on nasty accumulations. Get in there with a stiff brush and the steamer for spot cleaning. A little effort can free up the nastiest accumulations. If I am getting into a big project, I'll cover the front fenders so my cleaners aren't migrating and stripping off my CG 5050 :soscared:



If I am super-bored and things are clean, I will use one of the spray waxes (SONAX, Optimum or AW) on smooth, painted surfaces. This can dress up the under-hood view and make subsequent cleanings more pleasurable. I'll also remember to lube/grease latches and pivot points.



I bought some of the Eagle 1 Etching Wheel Cleaner..I think that's an HF based cleaner. I've played a bit on some un-coated aluminum surfaces....it offers a big improvement in esthetics!



If you stay "ahead" of the dirt, meaning a monthly dusting or wipe down with ONR (or equiv.), there really is very little effort required.
 
I'm a bit fanatical about clean (if not dressed/"detailed") engine compartments, so whenever I buy something used it's a big part of my initial clean-up.



Heh heh, ten minutes? I know I'm one *very* slow detailer, but I've spent much longer than that on a single bracket! Knocking oxidation off underhood items (e.g., fuzzy-white-oxidized alternator housings) with a Dremel can take ages, especially when you can only see one side/angle from a given position. OTOH a decently clean one can go very fast so I guess it's just another one of those "it depends" things.



My experiences have shown that, as WCD suggested, most modern engine compartments are pretty well sealed against water. There are some specific items (e.g., OptiSpark distributors in GMs) that need to stay dry, but I've gotten a *lot* of engine compartments very wet over the years and even the Jags ;) came through it OK.



If in doubt, cover it with plastic wrap, cover *that* with aluminum foil, and then clean the item in question later with great care.



I wouldn't leave them running, as a thorough job can take a while and I wouldn't want fans switching on/off or other electrical things happening while I'm working in there (imagine your holding that fan's blades to clean them when it switches on...).



Steamers are great but they don't always get down into inaccessible areas. For those I use long objects with swabs/foam/cloth/etc. somehow attached. The long "grabber" tools used for picking up/holding stuff (mine have three wire jaws and operate with a plunger) can be *very* helpful.



Dedicated citrus-based engine cleaners (Griot's works but is expensive, TOL/Hi-Temp stuff works and is cheap) are great and generally a lot milder than I would've expected. For things that aren't too nasty I like P21S TAW but some here tease me about that being so expensive and I bet something like a cheap APC would work fine too.



Consider where the nasty stuff is gonna go...floor drains? I have a commercial oil separator plumbed into my home shop, otherwise I'd be concerned about where all that stuff ends up environmental/health-wise.



For things you don't want to get wet (or that are really greasy, so much so that you don't want that [stuff] going anywhere else in the compartment as it gets cleaned off) I like solvents like AutoInt's New Car Prep.



You oughta be able to get the Tacoma pretty nice, I did OK on my Blazer and it was a filthy mess when I started. And FWIW it still looks OK after this last winter, but then I do a cursory cleaning every time I wash it.
 
Guys I really appreciate all the advice, it was great as usual and gives me a ton of things to consider.

I am going to get the Megs APC + cleaner ( I get it cheap), and some 303 Aerospace protectant if I can find it locally to do the "interior", from what I have been able to deduce from reading this will also probably do a good job on the "engine bay".

If anyone feels different about these two products and the chosen process I have intended for them please say something , because I will probably purchase them this weekend.



By the way, the inside of the Tacomas engine compartment is not greasy in any way, not in the least! In fact there is no oil, or grease whatsoever, just a coating of grime and dust basically.

Changeling
 
1. Let the engine get warm to the touch

2. Shut off engine

3. Spray engine with Meguiars APC cut 4:1 (dilute depending on dirtyness)

4. Allow to dwell for 10-15 minutes

5. Take a detailing brush, get the crevices and agitate the APC

6. Spray down the engine with the 'mist' option keep the hose moving dont stay in one spot

7. Start up engine to help evaporate water in tight areas

8. Dress/Protect with CD2 engine detailer
 
CD-2 rocks!



Before:

engine001.jpg




After:

engine009.jpg
 
evenflow said:
1. Let the engine get warm to the touch

2. Shut off engine

3. Spray engine with Meguiars APC cut 4:1 (dilute depending on dirtyness)

4. Allow to dwell for 10-15 minutes

5. Take a detailing brush, get the crevices and agitate the APC

6. Spray down the engine with the 'mist' option keep the hose moving dont stay in one spot

7. Start up engine to help evaporate water in tight areas

8. Dress/Protect with CD2 engine detailer
Click to expand...





Evenflow, what is CD2, I've never heard of it?

Changeling
 
I did basically did the same process that evenflow listed, but instead of Meg's APC I used the CD-2 Engine Degreaser. Since I don't have access to a hose, I used my pesticide sprayer with the mist attachment. Worked awesome. CD-2 never ceases to amaze. When your done you'll wonder how ever went without cleaning the engine bay. CD-2 Detailer doesn't attract dust.
 
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