Einszett vs. Menzerna polishes

velobard said:
Well, I have to say this thread has led me in the exact direction I was hoping to avoid...I have to buy both! LOL Perhaps some MP and Ultra from 1Z, and some 106FF (or 106FA if it becomes available soon enough) to go along with the Menzerna I already have.
Click to expand...



I finally came down to the same conclusion:



Wax/Carnuba = 1z the polishes from most agressive go:

Extra/Upp (yellow can)

PP (green can)

MP (red can)

WPS (blue can)

Glanz - a sealant of sorts



Sealant = Prime Strong with AJ with the surface prepared by Menzerna.



Thanks Accumulator, Tom P. and Scottwax
 
FWIW. I find that OC works very well for me on Japanese metallics and finishes close to LSP ready. I tend to do what Anthony O and others suggest--one product, different pads. I did my GFs Accura with an LC orange pad and OC, then applied Poly Seal with a white LC pad and topped it with OCW. Came out very nice.



Agree with Accumulator's take on the IZ and a wax. And Menzerna and a sealant. On my black Porsche 106FF really is the best I've seen. As I've seen others post on here, it comes out so nice you hate to top it with anything.
 
Thanks mate. Whatever it did leave I would have removed with the next step, being dinitrol 7020 and ultra gloss
 
Velobard- I'd use the Paint Polish after the Ultra. It makes for a nice progression if you don't mind doing all those different steps (comared to the way people go from, say, H-T EC to a BF/Menzerna finishing polish and do everything in two steps with the rotary).



SVR- You might not even need to use the dinitrol 7020, I haven't run into many issues with the stuff the Pro MP leaves behind...not like it's some filler-heavy product that can lead to surprises down the road.
 
SVR- I can't answer that...I just never got my mind tuned into the "grit equivalent" way of evaluating polishes :o There oughta be some way for me to express the cut of the various 1Z polishes but I'm not sure what'll convey the info :nixweiss



And note that 1z polishes are a littel weird when used by rotary...the abrasives break down *fast*, so fast that you need to use unusually low speeds to get effective correction of serious defects. Kinda the opposite of what seems normal. Honestly, I seldom use them by rotary, finding them better suited to other methods. But that might just be my lack of experience coloring my opinions.



If you can do it by hand/PC/Cylo I'd expect the Utra/Extra to do it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top