Edge White Ultrafine Wool finish hologram free?

[imported_cushdrive]

Sorry about that! I honestly had no idea it even existed until Dwayne told me about it, LOL. I did specifically mention in the order that you wanted the finishing pad so there should be no confusion. :up

Matt I appreciate your help....the wool arrived last week and it's already being put to use. Thanks again. As for finishing hologram free......I couldn't make it happen on my car. My process included 2X PFW w/ SIP and 2X White Finishing Wool with PO106ff. The finish looks infinitely more brilliant with the wool vs. white foam, but I do still have some holograms. I'll see what I can do about that today. I have a rotary and a porter cable so I'll probably try the Nano on a white LC pad and do the same with the porter cable and see which turns about better. I just hope that the white foam doesn't dull the shine that the wool left because I am thoroughly impressed.

 

[imported_smprince1]

The finish looks infinitely more brilliant with the wool vs. white foam, but I do still have some holograms. .... I just hope that the white foam doesn't dull the shine that the wool left because I am thoroughly impressed.

This was my personal fear ... I would achieve brilliant gloss but would need to go back with foam/DA to take out any holograms. And then that would negate the finish achieved with the finishing wool/rotary.



Thanks for the info.

 

[SuperBee364]

Matt I appreciate your help....the wool arrived last week and it's already being put to use. Thanks again. As for finishing hologram free......I couldn't make it happen on my car. My process included 2X PFW w/ SIP and 2X White Finishing Wool with PO106ff. The finish looks infinitely more brilliant with the wool vs. white foam, but I do still have some holograms. I'll see what I can do about that today. I have a rotary and a porter cable so I'll probably try the Nano on a white LC pad and do the same with the porter cable and see which turns about better. I just hope that the white foam doesn't dull the shine that the wool left because I am thoroughly impressed.

Dang, I'm sorry to hear that.

 

[Accumulator]

All this talk of holograms makes me :think:



On the Denali XL (carbon metallic), the holograms I had when I started (from the previous efforts of others) were very mild but obvious to me. They also required a medium-gentle level of aggressiveness to correct.



The holograms I *ended up* fixing as the very last polishing step were *VERY* mild. They were almost invisible..but then the sun would be at *just* the right angle, and the viewer would be at *just* the right angle, and the panel in question would be transitioning from full sun to partial shade (e.g., a person walks past). All those things had to happen just the right way to see these holograms; this required at least two people (one moving past the panel to briefly cast the shadow) and had to be done during the short window when the sun was at *just* the right position. Most people woulda called the vehicle "hologram free", but it simply wasn't.



Oddly enough, those holograms were tough to get out! I had to get fairly aggressive and then go back through all the steps to my final polish. That had me but oh well, they're gone now.



But the whole experience made me wonder how many people woulda done what was necessary to see them, let alone bother with all the subsequent re-correction on a vehicle that was basically finished. No, no that's not some accusation directed at anybody in particular but rather an observation that this stuff isn't alway all that easy (let alone quick).

This was my personal fear ... I would achieve brilliant gloss but would need to go back with foam/DA to take out any holograms. And then that would negate the finish achieved with the finishing wool/rotary..

I was worried about that but it just hasn't happened. As long as the holograms are very mild/shallow, the required Cyclo follow-up doesn't diminish the gloss in my eyes (which are mighty discerning ).



I dunno if a PC will give the same results though, but I bet it would *with a 4" pad*.



Just use the mildest product/pad combo that'll remove the holograms and be willing to do it with more than one pass. I sure wouldn't use any polish harsher than what put the holograms *in* there in the first place, and I like the white Cyclo "finishing" pads for this as they're really more like light polishing pads. You could always do a final jeweling with some even *softer* pads (red/blue) for a finishing touch.

 

[imported_smprince1]

I think you're right Accumulator .... I was hoping maybe this ultrafine white polishing lambswool was the holy grail of to allow even me to achieve hologram free rotary finishing :waxing:

 

[imported_cushdrive]

This was my personal fear ... I would achieve brilliant gloss but would need to go back with foam/DA to take out any holograms. And then that would negate the finish achieved with the finishing wool/rotary.



Thanks for the info.

I ended up using a blue CCS pad with 106ff on the rotary. The gloss provided by the white finishing wool did not diminish at all and the blue foam pulled the holograms out.



After going through the process here is my take.....if you normally finish w/ white foam (as I normally do) and want more gloss than that provides, consider the white finishing wool and follow up with a less aggressive pad. If you're happy with the results you get from finishing with white foam or you're pressed for time...stick with the white foam.



The white finishing wool is really cool compared to the foam because I was able to reach small areas due to the way edge wraps the plate and buffer hop was non-existent with both the PFW and white wool. I do not regret purchasing either pad. Thanks SuperBee for your recommendations.

 

[SuperBee364]

Smprince1, a couple things that might help...



Use a generous amount of 106. The white wool likes to be very well lubed. That's one thing that I *really* like about 106; it's so thick you can use alot of it without worrying about sling.



Break it down for a *long* time. You have an almost unlimited working time with 106. Even after it's completely broken down, you can still safely work it for quite some time, although you won't really be accomplishing much after it's completely broken down, it's better to make sure that it's totally broken down than stop too early. Especially since we're talking about finishing out holo free with wool.



106 turns *very* oily looking when it's properly broken down. Like, REALLY *oily*. As if you just sprayed vegetable oil on the paint. I'm talking OILY! The reason I'm stressing this so much, is that most polishes clear out, at which point we stop buffing and remove them. 106 is kinda different in that regard. If you stop when it just kinda goes clear, you're not there yet. Keep going until you get that really oily look. (85RD is the same way). I'd give it at least a two minute working time per application.



106 starts hazey, goes clear, stays clear for a while, then goes a bit oily, then more oily, then finally it just looks like a thin shiny layer of oil. That's where ya want to get to. Regardless of what kind of pad you use (foam or wool), you'll bring 106 (or 85RD) to it's max potential if you work it til it's *oily*!



Also, reduce the pressure to just barely more than the weight of the buffer when the 106 starts to clear out on ya.



I'm glad to hear you're getting better gloss results with the wool than the foam... now if we can just tame those holos...

 

[Eliot Ness]

..........I do not regret purchasing either pad. Thanks SuperBee for your recommendations.

OK, just to clarify this in my mind. The PFW is a single sided (with Velcro) pad, while the white finishing wool is a double sided pad made for the Edge adapter?