DWG vs. Megs #7 Glaze War

Greg Nichols

Greg Nichols

New member
I had a car today that I had some time to test some ideas, the first idea was how much filling capabilities do Danase Wet Glaze and Megs #7 have on a hammered finish. The photos below will give you some idea. They were applied with a red LC pad and PC. I was shocked at the findings.



The hood of the car:

IMG_2309.jpg




The products:

IMG_2310.jpg




The Results:

IMG_2311.jpg




IMG_2313.jpg




Did the entire hood with DWG and took a sun shot:

IMG_2314.jpg






I was always under the impression that DWG does not really fill very well, but these results are pretty impressive compaired to the Granddaddy of glazes Megs 7. They both brighten the paint a lot, almost like a cleaner.



DISCLAIMER: I DO NOT USE GLAZES TO CORRECT A FINISH OR TRICK A CLIENT INTO THINKING THEY GOT A GOOD DETAIL!!!!



I will see this car again in a few weeks and hope to remember to shoot some shots of the hood then too. I did not top the glaze at all.



Discussion welcomed,



Cheers,

Greg
 
Wow, Greg, that's impressive. I'd always gone by the conventional wisdom that DWG didn't do much filling, so I never tried to use it that way.... just as a pre-sealant glaze. Amazing how much filling it did do. And since it is sealant based, I'm thinking it *should* last longer than a typical oil based glaze.
 
Yes I was intriqued by the test myself, I'm already planning on testing RMG. I just need another car in dire need.



The durability is also a question I want to seek out.



Cheers,

GREG
 
So just for clarification, DWG is the lower glaze used in all your pics?



Do you plan to use a sealant over DWG, to check to see what added durability you can get with it?



Do you use the same removal process for DWG as M07? Is it as time intensive?



Thanks,

Stevyn
 
1WaspMan said:
So just for clarification, DWG is the lower glaze used in all your pics?



YES the lower is DWG, the image before the afters show the location of each



Do you plan to use a sealant over DWG, to check to see what added durability you can get with it?



I have used DWG then a sealant, I prefer to use sealant and then "oreo" the DWG between the sealants. Since its not "oil" based it works with sealants.



Do you use the same removal process for DWG as M07? Is it as time intensive?



The removal for DWG is to just wipe off residue, M07 its wipe off, but a oily sheen is left behind as its oil based. If you wipe all the oil residue off you will be left with no 07 IME.



Thanks,

Stevyn
Click to expand...



I hope this helps, I'm sure others will chime in on experiences.



Cheers,

GREG
 
Wierd cause I could never get it to do much filling on my own car. Or atleast I never noticed a difference.



what speed did you work it in at and for how long? I usually just spread it and work it in @ 3/4 for a few seconds.
 
Dsoto87 said:
Wierd cause I could never get it to do much filling on my own car. Or atleast I never noticed a difference.



what speed did you work it in at and for how long? I usually just spread it and work it in @ 3/4 for a few seconds.
Click to expand...





I have never used it on paint so hammered before, I've just used it for the gloss enhancing effects.



I followed the directions that say work it into the paint, so I applied some down pressure and worked the product till it was dry looking, used 3/4.



cheers,

GREG
 
Actually your right, I never have used it on a car in that condition either. My own car has a few rids that are probably too deep to fill either way which is why I never noticed.



Still its intriguing and might be good after a 1 step to mask the remaining defects. It really takes me no more than 10 minutes to go around a midsize car. I might try it out
 
thank you Greg indeed! I didn't expect DWG to hide THAT much, but it's pretty cool to know. I've always used it as a pre-sealant glaze to add slight durability while adding lots of slickness
 
I've always just applied it with a red LC pad and a PC at speed 5, rubbing it in til it disappears. I then follow up with a quick MF wipe just to make sure there's no residue and to bring up the shine.



Putting down a layer of DWG and then topping it with 1000P might very well bring long term defect hiding to reality...



Nice job, Greg. :D I'm really amazed at it's defect hiding ability.
 
Its kind of funny too. I always thought of oil based glazes as the heavy fillers. Looks like synthetics have a leg up.



So what good is #7 now when DWG fills just as good, if not better (as shown), and can be topped with anything. Guess its just nostalgia now.
 
Dsoto87 said:
Its kind of funny too. I always thought of oil based glazes as the heavy fillers. Looks like synthetics have a leg up.



So what good is #7 now when DWG fills just as good, if not better (as shown), and can be topped with anything. Guess its just nostalgia now.
Click to expand...



The look you get from DWG is different, though. It's definitely sealant-y, where as the oil based glazes look.... well, different. :)



I *love* the look I get from DWG topped with 1000P, but I also like the look I get with a good oil based glaze (good ole Meg's #7 being my re-born favorite at the moment) topped with a high quality 'nuba.



It's definitely more work (for me, at least) to do the oil based glaze and a wax over it than DWG followed by 1000P. And if you're *really* feeling lazy :D topping DWG with UPGP is a wonderful combo, too. And I guess you could really just *not* top DWG with anything, as it does leave a layer of sealant behind. I wonder how durable it would be by itself, how good of environmental protection it gives, ease of cleaning.... hmmm.. looks like I have a new experiment to run after we get done moving this week. :)



DWG is so easy to use; it just melts right in to the paint when you apply it with a pc.



I've been following up one-step polishing jobs with an oil based glaze and a wax. I think that's gonna change now. Thanks, Greg!
 
he look you get from DWG is different, though. It's definitely sealant-y, where as the oil based glazes look.... well, different.
Click to expand...

True true



And if you're *really* feeling lazy topping DWG with UPGP
Click to expand...

Heyyyyyyyy, subliminal diss? hmmmm..... :p



I polycharged some DWG and left it on top of UPGP and got excellent results. Water beads nice, stays slick and actually has good enviromental protection, atleast Im assuming it was the DWG and not the underlying UPGP. Dirt wiped away with ease. I like to leave DWG on the top since its so much slicker than UPGP
 
:soscared: WOW! That is an insane amount of hiding/filling! I'm not used to using glazes (I do have #7), so I didn't know that filling to this capacity was even possible. This is what I have been looking for econo details.
 
Since I have used the CG version for awhile I can tell you why it hides so well:



RED PAD. Use an orande pad and it will not hide.



:welcome:welcome:welcome
 
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