Dr Colourchip ?
- Thread starter Striker
- Start date
atgonzales
New member
Great product to work with.
Pats300zx
Super Moderator
Great product !!! I have been using it on all my cars and just used a kit this past weekend on a clients car.
Accumulator
Well-known member
I do best *BY FAR* when I use it like regular touchup paint, rather than their "smear it on and then..." approach. Zero comparison IME.
Be a bit careful with subsequent abrasion/etc. as it`s always been considerably softer/more fragile than oe paint, again just IME.
It did work out fine every time I`ve used it, although per usual sometimes the color match is great/not-so/not-at-all just like every other touchup paint in the world.
Be a bit careful with subsequent abrasion/etc. as it`s always been considerably softer/more fragile than oe paint, again just IME.
It did work out fine every time I`ve used it, although per usual sometimes the color match is great/not-so/not-at-all just like every other touchup paint in the world.
Stokdgs
dansautodetailing.com
Striker -
What are your expectations of the product ?
This product is lacquer based paint last time I used it.
It will fill nicely in my experiences if you use the right brush.
My best brush is a camel`s hair sword brush that is sold at most automotive paint supply houses..
You want to get the product - just - inside the chip and this brush comes to a very fine point and is perfect for the task.
The second bottle of liquid is used to get the paint all settled in the chip, hopefully, it is level with the surrounding paint, and give it a nice gloss..
I have never had a bad experience with this product.
They used to sell the product in a nice, wooden box, but not sure if that is still the case today..
Dan F
What are your expectations of the product ?
This product is lacquer based paint last time I used it.
It will fill nicely in my experiences if you use the right brush.
My best brush is a camel`s hair sword brush that is sold at most automotive paint supply houses..
You want to get the product - just - inside the chip and this brush comes to a very fine point and is perfect for the task.
The second bottle of liquid is used to get the paint all settled in the chip, hopefully, it is level with the surrounding paint, and give it a nice gloss..
I have never had a bad experience with this product.
They used to sell the product in a nice, wooden box, but not sure if that is still the case today..
Dan F
Accumulator
Well-known member
Yes indeed, surprisingly so!
rlmccarty2000
Active member
Works great for chips/road rash, not so great on scratches.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Striker- I`d give some thought to what`d be actually happening if you used the "smear" method 
"Gee, what could possibly go wrong?" comes to mind... when I`m feeling sarcastic.
"Gee, what could possibly go wrong?" comes to mind... when I`m feeling sarcastic.The only scratches I`ve used it on were more like gouges, where most any result would be an improvement.
Stokdgs
dansautodetailing.com
Well, what do you want to accomplish ? That should help you decide which kit to purchase..
In my experiences with this product, Dr. ColorChip, I have found that if you have deep chips, it is best to clean them out really good, then fill them a little at a time, allowing the paint to dry between coats.
If you have a lot of chips and you are doing them all at once, and they are all close to each other, then the fill them all so you finish them at about the same time, then, come back with the other bottle product on a cloth and level (smear) them all off at the same time..
It is all made up of acrylic lacquer thinner, which means this thinned out product in the 2nd bottle will only react with lacquer thinner paint..
It will remove it from surrounding areas if you are not careful applying it into the chips, and leave the rest of the paintwork just fine..
Now, if your paintwork is already acrylic lacquer thinner, then you have to be aware of that and adjust your time accordingly, in other words, work faster and more carefully to not get the original acrylic lacquer to start getting soft..
The paint today is water based and has no solvents in it.. Only custom paint jobs or vehicles made up to somewhere in the 80`s had either acrylic lacquer or acrylic enamel from the factory.. So do the math and see where you are on that..
Dan F
Accumulator
Well-known member
When I level with their solvent I use an old MF (which is promptly trashed) as the cloth that came with mine wasn`t as soft as I like. Dunno if they`ve changed it..
I do the same with Langka.
I do the same with Langka.
wannafbody
wannafbody
I tried it several years ago with the wipe on method and it didn`t work very well for me.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Striker- As long as it`s (at least close to) the right black, it oughta work fine. And with both being ss maybe the "softer touchup paint" won`t be an issue.
And, heh heh, props to you for admitting about the wrench
And, heh heh, props to you for admitting about the wrench
Accumulator
Well-known member
I dunno just which way I`d jump on that either...with it being ss I`d question whether they`d be all that different. I`d be applying it with the fine brush anyhow.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Striker- That *is* a quandary, huh? I *think* I`d choose between them based on what kind of chip/etc. I was filling it. Like, "how hard to get the basecoat down in there and fill what`s left with plenty of clear?"
I generally prefer b/c for this, but sometimes I`m glad I just did it with ss. I can`t recall ever using ss and wishing I`d done differently, but I do sometimes feel that way when I`m using the b/c version.
I generally prefer b/c for this, but sometimes I`m glad I just did it with ss. I can`t recall ever using ss and wishing I`d done differently, but I do sometimes feel that way when I`m using the b/c version.
Accumulator
Well-known member
No biggie, use KBS RustSeal as the primer. Just get the touchup paint on top of it quickly or else you`ll have to [mess] around doing stuff so it`ll stick (not an problem within a few hours of using the RustSeal but don`t wait too long).
RustBullet doesn`t end up quite smooth enough for small chips and Eastwoods (otherwise good) RustEncapsulator can be sensitive to lacquer touchup paint.
And FWIW, with 3M Rust Avenger off the market, no Rust Converter that I`m familiar with will even come close to equaling the RustSeal.