Dr. Colorchip users - tried it for the first time, couple questions

I tried the Dr. ColorChip, following the directions of: Dab! Smear! Remove.I used the Nitrile glove.

I got the Dab! down great, but the Smear! portion did not seem to work and the Remove! task failed completely.

I did this at the beginning of July, so the temp was in the 70's.

I then did some wet sanding to clean up the mess. I rubbed too hard near a crease in the hood and went through

to the base coat. Now, I have my hood back, freshly painted, a perfect job that only cost me $400.00.

I watched the video on the Dr. ColorChip web site.

My experience was a big Failure!
 
I've had great success w/DrColorchip on everything except plastic bumpers. No matter what I try it never seems to stick.



On panels, I've let it dry over nite, used their solution (mineral spirits seem to work as well) to buff off the residue, and applied a second coat.
 
I don't do the "smearing" part. Not at all. I use it like regular touchup paint and then level it with their solvent.



And I don't use their brush either; I use either disposables or my little artist's brushes.



I would *NEVER* wetsand this touchup paint; I'd level it with their stuff as best I could and then just live with it. If I were gonna wetsand I'd use a different product, one with a b/c system.



No problems on plastic bumpercovers, wonder what I'm doing differently :nixweiss
 
Bumping an old thread but someone gave me a nice chip out of one of my doors on my new car and while the Dr. Colorchip worked relatively well I did notice quite a bit of marring after using their provided cloth and seal act to remove the excess.



Anyone have similar issues?



I guess I have to wait a couple weeks before polishing it out but I really want to get rid of it now.
 
I used it on my hood yesterday and got some marring, too. I'm going to wait a week and polish it out.





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I own the product now and it's definitely temperature sensitive in terms of working with it. I've had pretty good luck on plastic surfaces. That's primarily what I've been working on. It definitely requires some patience and effort when working on damage that isn't a stone chip. I'll have spent a number of hours over a couple weekends getting it to look right.



For whatever reason, it seems important to wipe away with MF towel the SealAct after using it per their recommendation.



Their paint color match is excellent as noted above.



I want to figure out if I can use someone else's touch up paint and see if it will work with the SealAct blender. I've got some serious stone chips on the front of one of our cars.
 
It's a great product and easy to use after you get the hang.



First thing, forget that crappy cheap mf that comes with it. Save that for cleaning tires.



Second, you will learn quickly that its all about very LIGHTLY rubbing it with a smooth soft cloth and sealact. Rub hard and you'll be starting over. Instead rub however long you need to buy very lightly. I find some extremely worn in soft cotton boxer type material to work well for this step. Again very light rubbing.



After fully cured a finishing polish will make it seamless if its a solid color.



Tom, I had the same thought about using someone else's touch up with the seal act. Incredibly it doesn't seem to work!



I had a review I started on this like two years ago and never finished. Ill make an effort to do so.
 
CEE DOG said:
Tom, I had the same thought about using someone else's touch up with the seal act. Incredibly it doesn't seem to work!
Click to expand...



I'll give it a try but am skeptical about it.



thx.
 
03TLS said:
..while the Dr. Colorchip worked relatively well I did notice quite a bit of marring after using their provided cloth and seal act to remove the excess.



Anyone have similar issues?



I guess I have to wait a couple weeks before polishing it out but I really want to get rid of it now.
Click to expand...



Their whole "smear the paint everywhere and then rub the panel with our stuff" approach is probably better left to people with, uhm....non-Autopian values ;)



I used the provided cloth without any marring issues (on Ford clear, if that matters) but I was *very* gentle about it and it did mar the touchup paint a little bit. I switched to an old very-low-nap MF and that worked better for me (did trash the MF though, so don't use one that you value).



Be *VERY* careful polishing out the marring as it's really easy to polish away the touchup paint too. Try to just polish the oe paint and not the touchup...yeah, easier said than done.



What I did was apply the paint, let it cure for a day or so, use the leveler (again, very gently) to get it a little more level, *without touching the surrounding oe paint*, and then let it sit for weeks. That left a little "blob" but a *very* light hit when polishing made it a little better and I said "good enough".



FWIW, I've decided I'd rather have a little bit of a blob than risk opening a can of worms by being too aggressive about aiming for perfection. IF I'm really going for a perfectly smooth touchup I use other/conventional touchup paint, let it cure for weeks, and then wetsand/compound/polish.
 
I've used the DR Colorchip with great success on my black Marauder using a somewhat modified method. I washed the front end then did a medium light polish, did a wipe down with IPA then took a small detailing brush and IPA and cleaned out each chip. I used a small fuzzy headed toothpick like applicator to apply the DR. to each chip till each was filled above the surface. On a small area that had road rash, about 50 chips in a 2" circle, I just wiped in the product with a blue paper shop towel. I used a heat gun and went around and heated each area and then lit it sit for about two hours before removing with a soft cotton tee shirt backed by a flexible plastic card. For those few spots that I didn't add enough product I added more and continued the removal process. This left light marring around most repaired areas. I again heated the repaired areas, waited about two hours and used a light polish to remove the marring and finished up with PO85rd. Applied my LSP the following day. Not one chip of about 200 lifted and when completed No one could find the repaired areas. Absolutely the best product for repairing chips that I have found!! Thanks to Gary Dean for posting his how-to on using the Dr Colorchip product!
 
POPPAJ- Ah, wonder if the heat gun made all the difference! I might oughta try that...



And yeah, those little disposable brushes work well :xyxthumbs



Wonder if you could avoid some of the marring by using an old MF instead of the t-shirt :think: Having marred the [crap] out of Audi clear by touching it with a *VERY* soft, plush t-shirt I'm leering of letting them anywhere near my paint.
 
I had some very, very small chips in my hood that I filled with it and one of them won't take. The other two held. I have the little squeegee that the sell and I'm going to try using that instead of the smear and then let it dry for 2 hours. I had a lot of trouble getting the excess off last time I used it.
 
Bill220-Welcome to Autopia!



Wonder how it'd work if you let it sit for a *lot* longer :think: That worked pretty well for me.
 
Accumulator said:
POPPAJ- Ah, wonder if the heat gun made all the difference! I might oughta try that...



And yeah, those little disposable brushes work well :xyxthumbs



Wonder if you could avoid some of the marring by using an old MF instead of the t-shirt :think: Having marred the [crap] out of Audi clear by touching it with a *VERY* soft, plush t-shirt I'm leering of letting them anywhere near my paint.
Click to expand...



I gave some thought to using MF, but thought that the texture/weave might pull out the Dr from the chip so I never tried it. I might experiment on the Wife's car!



The finishing polishes that I used had no trouble removing the marring.
 
Bill220 said:
I'm going to try using that instead of the smear and then let it dry for 2 hours.
Click to expand...



As Accumulator has suggested, permitting a much longer cure time will help. I sometimes wait 1 or 2 weeks before attempting to finish off the repair.



Welcome aboard, Bill!
 
POPPAJ said:
I gave some thought to using MF, but thought that the texture/weave might pull out the Dr from the chip so I never tried it. I might experiment on the Wife's car!
Click to expand...



Yeah, if memory serves that *did* happen a few times. Eh, I was up to my neck in issues on that car (the ratty, but blown, Crown Vic) and it's hard to remember what did/didn't work.



[qiote]The finishing polishes that I used had no trouble removing the marring.[/QUOTE]



Heh heh, seems like most people have fewer troubles than I do in that regard! I feel like I end up having to reach for aggressive stuff soooo often :nixweiss
 
Accumulator said:
Bill220-Welcome to Autopia!



Wonder how it'd work if you let it sit for a *lot* longer :think: That worked pretty well for me.
Click to expand...



Thanks for the welcome!



I finally got it to work correctly. I wasn't using enough of the removal solution and using too much pressure.



Last night I did my front bumper and used the little squeegee that they sell for $3. That method worked satisfactorily for me. I let it dry for an hour before removing the excess.





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