doing a detail for a buddy and want it right

H

hydro556

New member
I am doing a late model Gold(bright) Jeep Wrangler for a good friend and want it to look awesome, so I am seeking advice from the experts. It is an exterior only and I have the following tools/products. Makita 6040, Random orbital and/or forced rotary. LC orange, white and black pads as well as wool. XMT 360, Mothers california gold wax, several Meguiars Marine products(will these be good for the fiberglass top and flares?), mothers clay and QD.



I was planning to use the 360 on an orange pad with the Mak set to RO. Is this the best first step? RO or forced rotary and what speed?



Then the black pad for the LSP(mothers Cal Gold, I guess), unless the Meguiars Marine wax would do a better job on the Wrangler.



Then use the Megs Marine stuff for the hardtop and fender flares?





Guys, pls critique my process and let me know if there is a better way. I need to get a better LSP but havent placed my next order yet. Is the Meguiars Marine stuff any good for the Jeeps body panels or would I be better off to just use the OTC Mothers wax that came with my clay kit? Is there another OTC product that is substantially better that I should go get? I am probably going to order Pinn SigII or Soveran when I order but that wont help since I am doing the Jeep tomorrow. Also, should I let the 360 "cure" before applying my LSP(whichever route I end up going) or can I apply the wax right after applying the 360? Last question, I will apply the 360 with the Makita, should I use a MF by hand to buff it off, or use a polishing pad on the Makita?





Sorry for so many questions but I know his expectations are high and I dont want to disappoint. Thanks.
 
Id wash, clay, use 360 in RO mode with a white pad and buff it. That's it. I believe the wax that comes with the clay kit is a cleaner wax and it would remove the (little) sealant the 360 has. If gold is a pure wax, you can top the 360 with it. I'm not familiar with Meg's marine line.



Using the 360 I go panel per panel with a white pad and buffing by hand as it never finishes cleans like it says. Once I'm done I go back to the first panel and apply a wax or sealant.



Good luck
 
hydro556 said:
Sorry for so many questions but I know his expectations are high and I dont want to disappoint. Thanks.
Click to expand...



First, please don't take any offense to this post.



Based on your questions, it doesn't sound like you have much experience detailing, is that correct? If so, I'd be concerned about trying out techniques you've never done before on a friend's vehicle, especially one with "high expectations". There's a learning curve to all of this stuff, and no one gets it completely right the first time.



As to your specific quesitons, if you've never used the makita on forced rotary mode, then *definitely* don't do it for the first time on your friend's vehicle. Use the R/O mode only, it's far, far more forgiving.



I don't have any experience with the XMT line, or the Meg's Marine line. I also don't know exactly what the hard top is made of on a wrangler, but I'd be careful about using anything that would leave residue. If it's some kind of hard plastic like the trim on a lot of cars, I'd be *very* careful about your product selection, 'cause you don't want to stain it.



Anyway, that's my feedback, if I misread your posts, and you've got a lot more experience than I realized, well, take it for what it's worth. Good luck, and post some pics!
 
jaobrien6 said:
First, please don't take any offense to this post.



Based on your questions, it doesn't sound like you have much experience detailing, is that correct? If so, I'd be concerned about trying out techniques you've never done before on a friend's vehicle, especially one with "high expectations". There's a learning curve to all of this stuff, and no one gets it completely right the first time.



As to your specific quesitons, if you've never used the makita on forced rotary mode, then *definitely* don't do it for the first time on your friend's vehicle. Use the R/O mode only, it's far, far more forgiving.



I don't have any experience with the XMT line, or the Meg's Marine line. I also don't know exactly what the hard top is made of on a wrangler, but I'd be careful about using anything that would leave residue. If it's some kind of hard plastic like the trim on a lot of cars, I'd be *very* careful about your product selection, 'cause you don't want to stain it.



Anyway, that's my feedback, if I misread your posts, and you've got a lot more experience than I realized, well, take it for what it's worth. Good luck, and post some pics!
Click to expand...





I would never take offense to what is said on an internet forum, and you havent offended me at all. I have been using RO buffers for years, but just recently acquired my Makita 6040. It def is much more capable than the ROs I have used in the past. I have used it in the rotary mode with some success on practice panels and my work car. I am always very careful but want to be even more so on this vehicle, since it isnt mine. I am confident that I can keep from screwing up. That said, I am looking for advice on how to use the products I have in order to make this Wrangler look the best I can.





I have washed the Wrangler and am getting ready to clay it. It has quite a bit of light swirls that I can see after washing it. Upon washing I discovered that ALOT of the vehicle is some sort of plastic or fiberglass. I have the following and would like to know how best to utilize it. Megs 44(mild cleaner and gloss enhancer), 49 (oxidation remover), 45 (high gloss polish), and 56(pure wax, carnauba blend). I also have some 3M Marine clean and shine wax enhancer. Are these products the way to go?
 
Sounds good. :)



I think I probably can't be any more help, 'cause I've never worked on a Wrangler, and don't have any idea what the hard top, etc. are made of. Sorry I couldn't be more help... you might get more responses with a new thread that specifically calls out the request of help with the wrangler hard top plastic in the title. Just a thought.



Good Luck!
 
I tried a couple of the products I mentioned on the hardtop in small sections. They didnt seem to make it look any better than the XMT360, so I ended up just using the 360 with a black pad and buffed the whole hardtop with it. Turned out great. I am doing the engine compartment now(my buddy decided to go ahead and go for the complete detail). I guess I will just use the 360 for the whole Jeep since it seems to do such a great job. I dont want to get too aggressive to get the swirls out(since it isnt my vehicle) so I will just do what I can with the 360 and an LC orange pad. I still have to determine which LSP to use.





On a side note, what purpose do the "cleaner waxes" that come with the Mothers and Megs clay kit serve? Are they worth the extra step?
 
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