Does CC oxidize?

P

picorrect

New member
After all this talk about straight line scratches, I need some advice. I have bunch of straight line scratches on the hood and trunk lid. No doubt from some of my cheap MF towels. I learned my lesson. Well I have a few dozen coats of Z2/Z5 so my guess is the scratches are in the Zaino layers, not the clear.



I want to use my PC. I also think it's time for another coat of Z1.



Here's what I'm thinking:



Z1 with the white CMA foam pad

Z5 with the CMA black foam pad

Removal with the CMA microfiber bonnet

Z6

24 hour cure time

Z6

Z2 with the CMA black foam pad



Any thoughts?
 
I am almost sure the markings are in the Zaino and I was thinking of ordering some ZFX.This way I could put three coats of Z5 on in one day to see if the marks would fade.



I do not have a PC and will have to do it all by hand......if they fade and or vanish then I would go back over it with Z2 later or more Z5 to remove most of them.



What you are planning sounds good but I am not sure that one coat of Z5 will cover the amount scratches you may wish.



What cha you think?I am no expert just looking for an answer as you are.
 
Zaino, and most sealants are incredibly thin. Chances are that the scratches are in the clearcoat. But here is what I would do:



Plan A

1. Shampoo car thoroughly.

2. Apply Z1 "if" it has been many months since last coat of Z "or" if you have over 10 coats presently applied.

3. Apply Z5 (I much prefer hand application.)

4. Remove Z5 (Again, I strongly suggest hand removal)

5. Z6

6. Repeat procedure "if" you see a marked reduction in scratches.

7. If no obvious improvement in scratches then they are too deep for Z5 to handle. Proceed to Plan B.



Plan B.

1. Use a fine abrasive such as Pinnacle Paint Cleanser Lotion and remove scratches.

2. If PPCL is not effective use Finesse It.

3. Apply PPCL as a finish step.

4. Apply Z5

5. Z6

6. Apply Z2

7. Z6
 
Have you used the NEW PPCL formula yet? It is supposed to be a bit harsher. I have both. Besides smelling like crap, the new formula doesn't seem hardly any harsher than the old......on my propeller test at least..............
 
It's not just Zaino. Applying waxes and sealants is a delicate operation. And many coatings, Zaino in particular, are VERY easy to apply and remove. Using a buffer is a considerable waste of material (product) and is a bit harsher and less controlled than by hand. There is more chance to cause a mark or swirl. It can be messy, too.



It's not that it can't be done with success, but when hand work is equally fast and easy it just makes sense.
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Brad B. [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>It's not just Zaino. Applying waxes and sealants is a delicate operation. And many coatings, Zaino in particular, are VERY easy to apply and remove. Using a buffer is a considerable waste of material (product) and is a bit harsher and less controlled than by hand. There is more chance to cause a mark or swirl. It can be messy, too.

It's not that it can't be done with success, but when hand work is equally fast and easy it just makes sense. [/b]</blockquote>
Wish I knew that a month ago. Anybody wanna buy a brand spanking new PC with 2 white, 2 black, and 2 MF bonnets?
 
Using the PC will probably increase the work required to apply and buff off then doing Zaino by hand with no benefit gained. IMO

I too now have a orbital buffer that is collecting dust.

Love that Zaino :)
 
Orbitals should be used with paint cleaners and scratch removers.



For Z and such the method is to apply as thin as possible then buff off. Then apply more coats after curing to get desired look.



The Orbital does not really add any benefit when applying Z and removal is a breeze anyway.



Save the PC for SMR and such products.
 
Reading Luster's post about what he thought was clearcoat failure raised a question I have. Towards the end of the post, Luster and detailchick both say clearcoat won't oxidize like SS paint will.

Here are some pics I took a while ago where I taped off my wife's trunk and tried some side-by-sides of different polish combos. You can see what the whole trunk looked like before when I pulled the tape off. I assumed it was oxidized clearcoat.

tape4.jpg


tape3.jpg


My question is, if CC won't truly oxidize, is there a name for the condition that is shown here? It was easily corrected with some medium polishes and hasn't returned yet, and it's been about a year since these were taken. But the car was a bit neglected before that, so I'm sure it would come back left to its own.
 
mikenap said:
Reading Luster's post about what he thought was clearcoat failure raised a question I have. Towards the end of the post, Luster and detailchick both say clearcoat won't oxidize like SS paint will.

Here are some pics I took a while ago where I taped off my wife's trunk and tried some side-by-sides of different polish combos. You can see what the whole trunk looked like before when I pulled the tape off. I assumed it was oxidized clearcoat.

tape4.jpg


tape3.jpg


My question is, if CC won't truly oxidize, is there a name for the condition that is shown here? It was easily corrected with some medium polishes and hasn't returned yet, and it's been about a year since these were taken. But the car was a bit neglected before that, so I'm sure it would come back left to its own.
Click to expand...

Yes clear coat will in fact oxidize, but at a much slower rate then a single stage (particularly lacquer) paint job. In fact most factory paint jobs oxidize at such a slow rate that they will likely have failed from abuse prior to oxidation occurring.

As noted by the pictures above and in some other threads, some clear coats will oxidize much faster then others and can be indicative of cheaper paint being used during a respray.
 
Thanks Todd, I wasn't really sure what to call this. Her car is an 02 Civic in Nighthawk Black Pearl. It's never been garaged until last year, and she didn't even wash it for the longest time, much less wax it. She's had it since new, so I don't believe it's a respray. Well, at least not the back half. The front of the car has been done twice, but that's a different story. :rolleyes:
 
Legacy99 said:
I'm surprised that both Bill and Detailchick said that CC does not oxidize.:(
Click to expand...

The way it was phrased was "I've never seen it", which obviously isn't the same as "it doesn't." That's what made me wonder, is all. No disrespect to either of them, they are both MUCH more experienced than I am when it comes to this.
 
Clear coat does not normally oxidize the way single stage paint does .

9 times out of 10 if a clearcoat is extremely scratchy cloudy and dull looking it is clearcoat failure and buffing will not help it but further along the deterioration and will start peeling up shortly after .

As Tod mentioned sometimes a crappy clearcoat paintjob will die back and look dull and can be buffed out as in Lusters case senerio .This is not normal for a factory paint clearcoat

Mikes clearcoat problem was probably not the clearcoat oxidizing but most likely from fallout sitting on top of the clear causing paint damage sitting on the top of the paint from not washing and neglect.

Single stage paint will oxidize even though you keep up with regular washing .

I hope that explains it . Single stage paint and clearcoat paint are very different in that cearcoat does not normally oxidize with regular washing where as single stage will .
 
I haven't seen factory clearcoat oxidize since the early days of clearcoat. Modern automotive clearcoats are pretty tough and "almost" immune to oxidation. It can still happen though.'

The oxidized clearcoat in my thread was a repaint and the quality of the clearcoat was "clearly" not up to the standards that the factory uses.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top