Do you guys achieve removing ALL swirls ?

chip douglas

New member
Been trying for 2 days in a row, using MG 5937, with not much success. Well, of course it did remove a good deal of em, but not as i thought it would........maybe im trying to achieve the impossible.......could it be ? Oh i forgot to mention the car is red, and under the sun light, i can still seee em on the hood(just a few) but the roof is far from what i thought iut would be......i spun the machine at 1100, using a polishing pad from 3M, yet i have to admit that when i tried it at 1500 rpm, it did seem to help.

Any idea why im not getting the expected results ?

P.S. i keep the pad flat as possible, exept wher i have to move with the curves of course.
 
Nope. Just try to make things look good with the Meg's #9.
For me, swirls are a fact of life. I just try to keep them enough under control that they don't bother me. (Much...):(
 
I think you can. It would just take a long time to do. If you are working by hand then forget it. I don't think its possible. I think you may have to do something drastic like wetsanding on some parts to get them looking good, but I think with enough time and the right products you could remove all marks from your car. If you had a silver car or something then it would be even easier to achieve since some of the swirls won't ever show up. I think it would depend on the age of the car too. A newer car is probably a lot easier to get swirl free than a 30 year old car would be. Some damage is just irrepairable. I still think that a relatively perfect finish can be achieved on a modern car after about 400 hours of polishing. :lol Seriously though... It may only take several hours. It just depends on what products you are using. Couldn't you just fill most of them with something like #7 or something? That might be easier.
 
400 hours of polishing :beat holy frigging jesus lol, i'll die on the job maybe :doh


I work with 3M's products, for instance for this job im with 5937 MG. And, well yeah i could cover them u, but i'll know they re there, so i realy want to remove them, yet i wont try with a harsher product, at least not now, as i want to use the less agressive product there is.
 
The least agressive may not do the trick though. Once its done all it can do its just not going to work anymore. You could polish for years and it would appear that you were using a product no more abrasive than tap water. If the swirls aren't coming out then you need to bump up the abrasive level. This is why I usually start high and then work my way down. Why waste 2 hours of polishing time doing work that isn't making a difference? Just break out the big guns and remove the swirls. Your clear isn't going anywhere anytime soon. Its not as thin and easy to remove as you think. You can polish off quite a bit of it before you are in danger. Certianly swirl removal isn't going to hurt anything.
 
I think, you re right.....i'll have to bump up to a light cut compound........i'll prolly keep you posted on this.......later dude.:beer
 
Gee, that s what i call real time......you answered in less than a minute.



im off to bed now, it's ....11:40 her, gotta to be up in couple of hours........bummer, there arent enough hours in a day for me to do my work lol


P.S. not that it has anything to do with this conversation, but arent those funny --->:whine
 
CharlesW said:
Nope. Just try to make things look good with the Meg's #9.
For me, swirls are a fact of life. I just try to keep them enough under control that they don't bother me. (Much...):(

:yeah

I seem to get to a point of being near swirl free but I'm my own worst enemy. I never fully recovered from the "experimenting" with wool pads on the rotary stage :doh . Got it about 95% and that is where I stopped. No more compounds or heavy abrasives on my truck finish. I think I've already worn half the clear away.

I can make whatever is left invisible to all but the most discriminating eyes using things like PB PWC, Mother's Sealer Glaze and good old fashioned paste wax.
 
Natty, I must have missed that post. What product did you use with the rotary to swirl so bad? Wool is very scary:bigscream Was it the product or the pad and application that did it? I guess I am asking you to retell the story, if you don't mind.:beer
 
EBPcivicsi said:
Natty, I must have missed that post. What product did you use with the rotary to swirl so bad? Wool is very scary:bigscream Was it the product or the pad and application that did it? I guess I am asking you to retell the story, if you don't mind.:beer

Well I'd rather not give a full rundown on the story. Not only is it still a source of frustration for me but it also makes me feel like a real jackass for using my truck, and not the wife's car, for the testing. It was sometime last winter and basically it goes like this......brand new rotary user (used with foam pads about 3 times), 1 1/2 pile twisted wool blend pad w/Valugard Clear Coat Compound, lambswool pad with Meg's Swirl Free Polish then countless days and hours spent getting 95% of the wool pad marks out. :beat :doh

If I had to lay blame I would put 100% of it on me. I NEVER should have used a twisted wool pad on my vehicle...or ANY vehicle with clear coat. I've used the lambswool pads a bunch more times (on my vehicles AND customer vehicles) with Valugard Clear Coat Polish and had outstanding results....mirror like finish. If faced with paint problems that won't come out with foam I wouldn't hesitate to use the lambswool again. I've actually become quite fond of lambswool but will always, ALWAYS try foam first now.

Now I have to go have a smoke. I'm getting all teary eyed remembering the infamous day. :boohoo
 
100% swirl removal? I honestly don't think it's possible, unless the vehicle is a garage queen.

My daily driver is a dark car. Swirls are a fact of life for me. But, each time I wash, I try to use good products (microfiber) and good techniques so as not to get any more. Twice/three times a year, when the car gets polished, I figure I'm getting more swirls out than I'm putting in. One of these days, I'll be happy without swirls. Then I'll trade it in and get another dark car and start all over. :D
 
detaled by hans said:
Mr. Natty:
DID YOU KNOW TODAY IS A GOOD DAY TO QUIT SMOKING !!!!!
SORRY TO SHOUT !!!!!

I don't have a problem quitting. I've done it at least a dozen times :rolleyes: .
 
My car is swirl free, tho not 100% scratch free (I know them all!) It did took me quite a long time to achieve that, and it can most easily get swirld again just for drying with MF, tho I think it's the wax that gets swirled.

Even heavy wool pad + rotary swirls can be cleaned, it's te real scratches that are more dificult to impossible to remove.

To Natty: did your car ever looked like this? :bigscream
alfa.jpg
 
NattyBumppo said:
I don't have a problem quitting. I've done it at least a dozen times :rolleyes: .

I quited smoking from 2-3 packs a day on February 2001. Still free and not missing it :jump
 
JGV....holy moly! I remember the first time you posted that pic. No, my truck was nowhere near that. It was more the faint, hard to see buffer marks that typically were only visible at odd angles in direct sunlight or under flouro lighting at an angle. Like I said, got it 'bout 95% and with some filling can get it 99%.

Could I continue to hammer away and get the rest...probably but I don't care to abrade away the rest of my clear coat. I'll be keeping this truck for at least another 5 years.

Also another good point re: marring being in the wax or protective layer. More than a few times I've freaked over what I thought was a new scratch or swirl but a QD wipe revealed it to be in the wax layer. Not uncommon I guess.

BTW JGV...CONGRATS on the new addition!!!!!!!!
 
Today, i tried again still with the 5937 to remove swirls from my girlfriend's ride........all i can say is BUMMER! I upped the speed to about 1800 rpm, applied a wee more pressure, moved the buffer slower, but still it didnt make any difference, and the area where it is a pain to remove them seems to be on door panels................now i either have to up a notch in abrasive or in pad, but the 3M compounding pad is sooo rough to the touch, im a bit afraid to put it to her paint, even though her car is test one.

I must have a lot of patience :beat
 
Chip:
Keep a few things in mind.
1. You are removing paint.
2. A rotary can remove lots of paint very quickly.
3. When you have removed quite a lot of paint, it becomes a very fine line between shiny paint and no paint.

Don't ask me how I know.:doh
 
Charles

the machine glaze 5937 prolly doesnt remove a lot of paint, cause after each pass i didnt notice any diff...............but i agree with you about the rotary been a tool not to be taken lightly, but it also depends on the product and the pad one use......as to me i NEVER use wool pads.

All the best :beer
 
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