Do you clay or do you use a decontamination product?

That’s just the thing tho- I’d like to avoid correcting it.

Or would it be best practice to do the “works” on it and start it off proper?

Decon-Mitt-Correct-Ceramic?


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If it doesn`t otherwise need corrected, I`d just do chemical decontamination.

Though, FWIW, I recently clayed the Tahoe after years of only spot-claying, and 1) the clay didn`t end up that soiled, and 2) I didn`t cause any new marring.
 
Hey accumulator. I always count on you to be here even after I take a few months off :P

The detailing world is kinda ticking me off with all these new products. Id like to find one company that would have everything I need (I heard sonax has everything from ceramic coatings, leather products and clay mitts)

Back on topic- I’m titter tottering on buying a Wrangler Rubicon. But I told myself that I will only do this if I can promise myself that I’m going to keep it for a long time.

They tend to last forever and hold a lot of value. This would be a daily in the harsh Canadian winters and it would most likely be parked outside.

So I have leather, unpainted plastic fenders and Chrysler paint to worry about!


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Striker said:
That’s just the thing tho- I’d like to avoid correcting it.

Or would it be best practice to do the “works” on it and start it off proper?

Decon-Mitt-Correct-Ceramic?
Click to expand...

For me I can`t suggest or guarantee that claying won`t leave marring; thus my suggestion that polishing might be needed. But it come down to many factors, your wants and desires, how aggressive the clay or clay mitt is, how hard/soft the vehicles paint is, etc.

In the past I had a clay block that said it wouldn`t marr because it was a fine grade and the lubricant would help. But on my Acura it marred the heck out of it and I had to do a full "minor" polish. I was able to fix it with some polish by hand on a foam pad. But I broke out the buffer to make it easier. My point is we can`t give to a perfect answer.

I have found the Sonus Ultra Fine clay to be so mild that marring usually isn`t a problem other than a few minor spots.
 
To be truthful, claying has to be my least favourite thing to do in the detailing world.

So if I could avoid it all together and get into the mitt business, I’d much prefer that!

I know a fella suggested a particular one by Blackfire (I think) earlier in this thread.

Too bad megs doesn’t make one as I like their stuff a lot.


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Since it would be a new car I would do it all. But you can benefit from polishing with a great finish to seal in with the coating. Then I would use a coating that has a primer polish in their line. The primer polish has abrasive in it that takes care of any marring from clay alternatives and gets a great finish.
 
Striker- If you hate claying, do the chemicals. It`s basically just doing a series of washes.

Striker said:
Back on topic- I’m titter tottering on buying a Wrangler Rubicon. But I told myself that I will only do this if I can promise myself that I’m going to keep it for a long time.

They tend to last forever and hold a lot of value. This would be a daily in the harsh Canadian winters and it would most likely be parked outside.
Click to expand...

Somebody here said those Jeeps are a PIA to detail, and the ones I see all have some degree of visible corrosion after a few winters, so I`d be sure to do *something* protective to the exposed undercarriage bits. I see *VERY* few Wranglers in a condition I could live with. Not slamming them, sometimes think about getting one myself...but nah, just *WAY* too hard to keep acceptable for me, not looking for a new full-time hobby.

OK, guess you`re considering the brand-new one, right? So none of the above might apply. But what *would* apply then is "first year of the greatly reworked new model", which I`d never touch on any vehicle, any time, ever.

But at least those plastic panels oughta be easy...I`d love that, just clean, UTTG+, maintain with Spray Wax as a Drying Aid, redo every [however long]...no problem. And while I prefer cloth, leather is easy too IME, just don`t pick white or somesuch and never let it get *too* awful.

TroySherer- I`ve heard those Acuras are pretty soft, yeah...all sorts of things factor in and I bet the vast majority of people need to correct after any real *decontaminating* level of claying.

That Sonus is so mild it hardly even hurts the contamination ;) In fact, I wouldn`t even bother using it for that, it`s practical limit seems to be "claying the LSP clean" and trying to make it do more would probably lead to marring and void the whole reason for choosing it in the first place.
 
Your corrosion comments on the wranglers; are you referring to pre owned ones? Or are you saying even with the new ones it’s too much of a part time hobby to keep clean ?

I always regarded them as super durable.


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Striker- I was *JUST* thinking about this thread this morning when admiring a, uhm..fly-[poop] green Wrangler in traffic today (woo-hoo what a fun looking toy for winter use, make mine a 4door hardtop, with a blower...).

I`m referring to the pre-brand new model ones, I gather they`ve just come out with a whole new Wrangler for this model year (so say the car magazines). Gee, I dunno if I could tell the difference between a `76 and a 2018...they all look like "CJ Jeeps" to me :o

Whatever year they are, I see a gazillion Wranglers in my area, and every one of `em has something I couldn`t stand going on with some exposed undercarriage bits or an exterior latch, or...something. I assume they`re all in "Before" condition because, well..nobody here knows from Detailing, but sheesh they all look terrible in ways I couldn`t really fix.

And a while back some guys here agreed that they were in that "least favorite vehicle to detail" category and that got my attention!

I`d *absolutely* spend a weekend with Eastwood`s Black Heavy-Duty Anti-rust (with a good spray gun, not the aerosol version) hitting all the "black stuff that ya want to keep black instead of rust-orange" and !oh man! would I impress upon the dealer/service shop that they cannot treat it like all the others. "No buddy, this one doesn`t get scraped up off-roading".

Durable? Sure, I`d count on it. Oughta get you there-and-back forever. But I question whether I could keep one in acceptable cosmetic condition. I don`t mind my "quick maintenance washes" taking X hours, but nah...I just don`t think I could keep a Wrangler looking OK. But hey, that`s just me and lots of folks are far more Autopian than I am!
 
For sure it’s a big vehicle to take on and detail every nook and crannie.

I’ve never used an Eastwood product. If it’s paint. I wouldn’t be interested.

I always swore by a product called LPS 3 Rust Inhibitor.

This product supposedly closely mimics cosmoline.

Cosmoline was invented and heavily used in WW2 to keep artillery pieces looking immaculate and rust free that were stationed on the ocean coasts.

The boys lining them were called cosmoliners lol!


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Striker- Yes indeed, I`m very familiar with mil-spec cosmoline :D The scent of it takes me back...

The Eastwood HDAR isn`t paint, though it does dry "dry" and then resembles semi-gloss black. For that reason it`s my choice for areas that I want looking OK. And if necessary it cleans off easily enough with solvents (but stays put otherwise). I`m thinking, like..use the LPS3 for out-of-sight areas and the BHDAR for the frame rails, something like that. I`m currently liking KBS Cavity Coater for the don`t-show areas, but I just don`t like seeing that beige/brown/etc. stuff.
 
Spray for bad areas that are most likely to have heavy gunk. Synthetic Mitt for the whole car. Clay for tights spaces and rim spokes.
 
IMG_3411.JPG

IMG_3427.JPG

I actually love the matte look of LPS.

Here it is at the top. Vs the bottom pic being bare primer.


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And if I end up with this thing, I’d like to get something to cost the inside of the frame rails.

Here in Canada we have Krown rust proofing facilities everywhere but I’m not convinced so much on them as I’ve seen them wash off. However they may be okay for inside the frame rails.



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Striker- AH, those pics were informative! Heh heh, now *I* prefer the second/darker gray one...can`t please everybody, huh? Hey, if you like how the LPS looks then that`s that :D

For inside the frame rails, if I had any doubts about a shop doing it I`d DIY with either the KBS Cavity Coater or the (much thinner, which IMO can be either/both good/bad) Eastwood Frame Coater. I haven`t quite decided which I`ll go with if/when I do the boxed parts of mine...

I`m surprised about the Krown washing off..gee, I`d be, uhm...highly displeased! The stuff I`ve DIYed stayed on there indefinitely even when my prep wasn`t quite right.

EDIT: I`m really curious about what you`ll do/not! Vicarious consideration of a Jeep purchase is cheaper and easier than doing it first-hand ;)
 
KBS cavity coater? Never heard of it?

I also found a 24” nozzle that can attach to the top of a spray can. This would be great for inside the frame.

We also have a product called rust check. You can purchase it in cans or go to a dealer and they will spray it down.

So. Since I’m crazy, I’d probably end up doing as much frame internals myself and then I would send it to rust check to have them do the rest with their equipment!


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Striker- Heh heh, you don`t know from KBS and I don`t know from Rust Check!

Google-fu up KBScoatings dot com to see their Cavity Coater, impressed me in all the right ways and they have an extended nozzle (as does Eastwood for their Frame Coater).

The only thing that immediately concerns me about the Rust Check is that IME some stuff that`s available in both "bulk cans for Pro sprayers" and aerosols is *MUCH* better in the former version than the latter. (The Eastwood Black HD Anti-rust is an exception, well..sort of).

What seems a bit tricky is finding something that`ll wick/migrate down into pinch-welds/etc. while still being durable and thick enough to provide an effective barrier. Well, I guess the *really* tricky thing might be applying it properly....
 
Striker- OK, I just looked up Rust Check. Sounds like, well...every other Rustproofing outfit but/and that`s intended as a judgement-neutral observation not a criticism. Maybe I didn`t look carefully enough, but I didn`t see any Salt Spray figures or other such quantified info, nor any approvals from major automakers/etc. and that "about one hour" application time must be some kind of typo as a good rustproofing job will *always* take a lot longer than that.

Eh, I hate to sound all cynical or otherwise be a [jerk], but website is clearly targeting people who don`t know much about Rustproofing. If you go that route, I`d be there to supervise and before agreeing to the work I`d want to ask some (perhaps indelicate :o ) questions.

Not saying it`s no good (if you like the amber-look), just that it wouldn`t be my choice. FWIW, if I wanted the "amber/beige/etc.-look" I`d find somebody who uses (and was trained by) AutoInt/ValuGard.

If I decide to have the Tahoe or Crown Vic done, I`m gonna do the parts that I want nice with the Eastwood Black HDAR and then, under close supervision, have a ValuGard-certified place do *ONLY* the places I tell `em to do, the way I tell `em to do it, with *LOTS* of masking/etc. ("no, don`t just spray it and clean off the overspray later, do it this way...here, I`ll show you..).
 
I would be the one to spend a weekend on the creeper and a spray bottle filled with LPS and go to town if this Jeep thing comes a reality.

I wouldn’t just let someone do the truck first. I’d do the majority of the work followed by their products.

Everyone swears by Krown up here but every test panel I’ve ever seen with LPS comes out looking amazing.


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Striker- I`ll be interested to hear what you decide!

Heh heh, I was really, *REALLY* tempted to call about a VW wagon I liked but people here prompted me to reconsider...the current vehicles really *might* be the last ones we have! You`re too young for that kind of thinking, so I kinda hope you get it and, if nothing else, know first-hand what you think of it.
 
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