Do I need all pads for Poli-Seal?

Those might even be a little much. PoliSeal was actually designed for use by hand. Go slow, and light.....Great all in one protectant....Real buttery...
 
a.k.a. Patrick said:
Those might even be a little much. PoliSeal was actually designed for use by hand. Go slow, and light.....Great all in one protectant....Real buttery...
Click to expand...



Says who? Not trying to challenge you, but I've not heard anyone from Optimum say that. I would agree that you can use it by hand, but I don't think it was designed for that purpose. Obviously, it works better if you use it with a machine.



As far as pads are concerned, I would have a cutting pad, polishing pad, and a finishing pad on hand. PS is pad dependent so each one will give you different results.



When using PS, it's going to disappear into the paint very quickly. Don't be fooled though, it's still there and working. One of the nice things about PS is there is virtually nothing to buff off at the end, although it's still a good idea to go over the area with a MF towel. Also, less is more with PS, just like the other Optimum polishes. Prime your pad with 4-5 pea sized dots. Once primed, 1-2 pea sized dots per section is plenty.
 
I use it with all pads depending on what finish I am working on.



If you are just talking about your car, and you have a hard clear, then stick with the orange pad or white pad...if you have softer clear, then get a green or blue pad...



IMO
 
Poliseal was created for use by hand. Only after its use by one of its testers via machine (as a "what if scenario", was it recognized as a machine viable product. Its abilities have exceeded its original design intentions courtesy of "experimentation."
 
I have always use it as a AIO or Final polish and never consider it as a swirl buster type polish. I have only used it on black and white pads but will have to give try with a more aggressive pads.
 
o nice, the more i hear about poli-seal, the more i am tempted to get some. this would be the perfect 'one step' polish and it has some protection to boot but i'll most likely top it off with some nuba's or nxt 2.0 :)



so it really does depend on pad huh? so does that mean if i use an orange vs a white, the orange pad would cut, and therefore correct more than the white pad?
 
willtothewong said:
o nice, the more i hear about poli-seal, the more i am tempted to get some. this would be the perfect 'one step' polish and it has some protection to boot but i'll most likely top it off with some nuba's or nxt 2.0 :)
Click to expand...



I'm not sure if v2 has cleaners like v1, but if it does you might end up removing some/all of the protection that PS provided. A safer more compatible LSP would be Opti-Seal or OCW. Collinite 845 looks pretty darn good on top of PS as well.



willtothewong said:
so it really does depend on pad huh? so does that mean if i use an orange vs a white, the orange pad would cut, and therefore correct more than the white pad?
Click to expand...



Yes, it is pad dependent.
 
^ thanks for your advice mshu7. looks like i'll top it off with some of my sourven then. Does Meg's gold class wax have cleaners or whatever? or is that not even worth putting on.



i still have some of my good old p21s though :)
 
If you are going to use an orange pad with the poli-seal, do a test spot first. If you notice micromarring from using the orange pad, it would be best to use a regular polish, like optimum polish, with the orange pad, then follow with poli-seal on a finishing pad. No need to do the entire car with an AIO and an orange pad, just to have to follow up with the same AIO and a finishing pad.
 
willtothewong said:
^ thanks for your advice mshu7. looks like i'll top it off with some of my sourven then. Does Meg's gold class wax have cleaners or whatever? or is that not even worth putting on.



i still have some of my good old p21s though :)
Click to expand...



No problem. I've never used GC but I've always heard that it doesn't last long. Although, same goes for Souveran. Maybe P21S would be a better choice.
 
Via UDM or PC, I use an orange cutting pad on hard paint, polishing pad on softer paint. By rotary, 1200 rpm using a blue Soft Edge polishing pad (similar to the blue Propel pads) on all paints.
 
Scott,



I know OPS flashes very quickly but can still be worked with a pc/udm but with a rotary and higher heat how do u know when u have worked the product enuff and are not dry buffing?



also about how many passes per section? thanx
 
DieselMDX said:
Scott,



I know OPS flashes very quickly but can still be worked with a pc/udm but with a rotary and higher heat how do u know when u have worked the product enuff and are not dry buffing?



also about how many passes per section? thanx
Click to expand...





+1 great question
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top