Didn't turn out too bad...What next?

[flash_e]

I just receive my flex XC and though I would post the results. I thought it turned our pretty well for my first attempt. My question is what is everyone's recommendation on what to do next? How do I maintain what I have done or improve on it? Do you finish polish and seal after so many months to maintain? I have a couple of scratches (not shown) that I still need to work on to see if i can remove. The problem is I can't really get to them with my flex. Any tips to take them out?

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Forgot to metion my steps:

Wash and clay bar

Uber Orange Pad / Menzema Power Finish (P0203S)

Uber Blue Pad / Menzema Super Finish (P0106FA)

Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax applied by hand

 

[flash_e]

Forgot to metion my steps:

Wash and clay bar

Uber Orange Pad / Menzema Power Finish (P0203S)

Uber Blue Pad / Menzema Super Finish (P0106FA)

Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax applied by hand

 

[Setec Astronomy]

Well, you have to work on your wash technique so you marr as little as possible during washing. I'd reapply the IW every 6-8 weeks to keep things nice and slick (or more often if you're inclined). I don't know where you live, but most members who can keep up the regimen seem to polish twice a year; once as part of winter prep, and once as part of spring cleanup.

 

[flash_e]

I live in the Midwest. I am more aware of proper washing, etc... now. This was the first time the truck had been polished since I bought it in 2002. At this step does every recommend just using a finishing polish and then sealant/wax? What is the best way to remove scratches that is on the curve of the metal? It's an area that I cannot get my flex in? Do these just need elbow "grease" and polish out by hand?

 

[Setec Astronomy]

If you can't get your machine in there, you're just going to have to hump it and do those parts by hand. Possibly a larger pad might allow you to get an edge in somewhere you can't reach now, but you need to be careful with that combined with the forced-rotation of the Flex.



If you've got the paint where you want it, a twice-a-year polishing with the P106FA should reduce any wash marring, clean the surface, and amp your gloss, followed by the IW. I'd apply the IW at least twice as often as the polish (at least every 3 months), since it's so easy and to keep things slick and easy to clean.

 

[Accumulator]

.. At this step does every recommend just using a finishing polish and then sealant/wax?

If you *really* get your wash regimen sorted out you can just use Sonus green Ultra-fine clay and then reapply the LSP without any polishing...at least for a while. No, it won't gloss things up the way a finish polish will, but it's a whole lot quicker and easier and I bet that in most cases nobody will ever notice the difference.

What is the best way to remove scratches that is on the curve of the metal? It's an area that I cannot get my flex in? Do these just need elbow "grease" and polish out by hand?

Try to figure out *why* you couldn't reach them with the Flex. Often there's a way to do it after all (if not, yeah, do it by hand). Often I use a *larger* pad, letting the overhanging outer portion do the work. Or take the plastic handle off the Flex (watch it, the housing gets very hot!) to make it a little smaller/handier.

If you've got the paint where you want it, a twice-a-year polishing with the P106FA should reduce any wash marring, clean the surface, and amp your gloss, followed by the IW...

I'd kinda hope he can avoid marring it enough that it won't need polished that often (eh..."hope springs eternal" and all that).

I'd apply the IW at least twice as often as the polish (at least every 3 months), since it's so easy and to keep things slick and easy to clean.

Yeah, rewax *before* it's really necessary; stay ahead of the curve.