DG 105 >> can it be layered ??

Its a cleaner wax/sealant. You're not going to build any film thickness by adding additional layers. Very few products can actually layer, you can probably count them on one hand. Everything else has solvents that will compromise previous layers. Two coats for good coverage if you feel like it.
 
Duragloss Total Performance Polish (TPP) #105 is an ‘All in One’s a synthetic Polymer/Wax Formula that contains cleaning agents that lightly cleanses your paint and leaves a protective coating of synthetic polymer/wax



Duragloss Polish Bonding Agent #601



To get the maximum longevity out of #105, apply a coat of Duragloss Polish Bonding Agent # 601 to the paint first. To get the maximum longevity, apply a coat of #601 to the paint first. Allow to dry to a haze but do not buff. Apply #105 on top of the haze and buff them both off at the same time with a soft micro fibre towel



Duragloss 105 is not a real glossy sealant like Klasse SG( looks like Zaino Z5Pro) a combination of synthetic polymers and amino resins, the resins are suppose to mimic a waxed look i.e. more wet and deep (apply with a Finishing pad)
 
Wouldn't DG 111 be the product to layer on top of 105?



That's the impression I got from the DG website. DG105 is an AIO, and DG111 is the pure sealant. Similar to KAIO + KSG.



Correct me if I'm wrong.
 
gpshumway said:
Wouldn't DG 111 be the product to layer on top of 105?



That's the impression I got from the DG website. DG105 is an AIO, and DG111 is the pure sealant. Similar to KAIO + KSG.



Correct me if I'm wrong.

111 is a pure sealant (no cleaners), but the look is not the same as 105. To me 111 is more of sealant look than 105.
 
gpshumway, you're correct. I use 105 a lot but think I prefer 101 to clean the paint. Oftentimes I'll top 101 with 105 and then go to Collinite but just as often I'll go from 101 straight to 845. I think 101 will give you a better look than 105.
 
TOGWT said:
Duragloss Total Performance Polish (TPP) #105 is an ‘All in One’s a synthetic Polymer/Wax Formula that contains cleaning agents that lightly cleanses your paint and leaves a protective coating of synthetic polymer/wax



To get the maximum longevity out of #105, apply a coat of Duragloss Polish Bonding Agent # 601 to the paint first. To get the maximum longevity, apply a coat of #601 to the paint first. Allow to dry to a haze but do not buff. Apply #105 on top of the haze and buff them both off at the same time with a soft micro fibre towel



Duragloss 105 is not a real glossy sealant like Klasse SG( looks like Zaino Z5Pro) a combination of synthetic polymers and amino resins, the resins are suppose to mimic a waxed look i.e. more wet and deep (apply with a Finishing pad)



You don't think so? I always felt like 2-3 layers of DG really looked very candied.



Either way, don't many people top it with their pink wax?
 
To the OP, typically the cleaners in the 105 due tend to remove likely some of the previous layer... how much of it I don't really know. I always used 2-3 coats to make sure I got full coverage. I also put it on very thin though.
 
pwaug said:
111 is a pure sealant (no cleaners), but the look is not the same as 105. To me 111 is more of sealant look than 105.



Agree, DG111 is old school sealant looking. Looks kinda cool on silver and whites, but pretty bad on other stuff. One coat of 105 looks so good and lasts for so long, i don't see a reason to mess with that. You'll need to clay the car before the sealant wears out.
 
Well, that's a little disappointing that 111 is not the same type of product as 105. I just picked up both with the intention of layering. I'll probably do so any way in a shootout this coming winter.



I'd avoided DG products in the past because of the very confusing information on their website, but decided to give them a try any way after good reviews here. I guess I got burned any way.



Someone should tell them that a product without abrasives shouldn't be referred to as a polish...
 
I don't think you bought a bad product, just don't expect lots of wow factor on darker paints. 111 is still very durable and pretty slick.
 
FYI - The car in question is a dark metallic red Honda Civic. I'm pretty sure it's the same color as tom p's Accord which he uses FK1000P on regularly.



I'm not that concerned with the exact look, mostly winter durability here in the frozen tundra. I need 6 months, if 105+601 (PBA) will give me that with one layer, so much the better. I bought the 111 with the intention of layering for durability.



My prior winter treatment for this car was ZAIO + 2X Z2Pro+ZFX. Seems to last well and look great, but I like to experiment and the DG products are similar to Zaino at a lower cost.
 
gpshumway said:
Well, that's a little disappointing that 111 is not the same type of product as 105. I just picked up both with the intention of layering. I'll probably do so any way in a shootout this coming winter.



I'd avoided DG products in the past because of the very confusing information on their website, but decided to give them a try any way after good reviews here. I guess I got burned any way.



Someone should tell them that a product without abrasives shouldn't be referred to as a polish...



DG105 IMO is one of the BEST sealants out there and for 11.00 a bottle it rivals or beats sealants that are 3 times as much.
 
Guitarist302008 said:
You don't think so? I always felt like 2-3 layers of DG really looked very candied.



Either way, don't many people top it with their pink wax?



The way a paint surface appears is very subjective; half the fun is experimentation and once you’ve found something you like, stick with it a while and then try something new
 
I don't know about other colors but I have experimented with Duragloss and other products on my last two vehicles, which were a billet silver Honda Ridgeline truck and now a MB ML350 in Diamond White. Although I like to try other products from time to time, here is what I finally found to give me the easiest and best protection, along with the look I wanted and at the best price:



Wash with CG "Clear" car wash at the wax stripping ratio of 2oz shampoo to a gallon of water.

Clay with Griot's mild clay using Griot's Speed Shine lube.

Wash again.

Polish using P21S Paintwork Cleanser or Duragloss 105 - both did a good job using Griot's 6" polisher.

One coat of Duragloss 601/111 combo using the electric polisher and finishing pad. Mix one part 601 to four parts 111.

The next day put on two coats of Collinite 845 Insulator Wax (by hand).



I have left the 601/111 on without using the 845 (when I do I use two coats of 601/111) and frankly, there is not much difference in looks or durability but there is a slightly more glossy and rich look to these very light colors using the 845 on top. I've also used Griot's Premium Wax over the Duragloss and it deepens the color even more but only slightly more. I like this look but the problem is I must reapply the Griot wax more frequently. As far as the Duragloss 105 goes I believe it is a pretty good AIO type product (about as good as Klasse) but I think as a pure polish the P21S is better to get the paint in shape for the LSP.



After every other or every third non-stripping wash (by that I mean my weekly maintenance wash) with either Duragloss 902 or Meguire's Gold Class Wash and Conditioner shampoos (both are excellent and cheap), a "topper" spray of Duragloss AquaWax does a great job if 111 or any other sealant is your LSP. If wax is your LSP, I prefer either Griot's spray wax or OCW as my "toppers". The spray waxes naturally seem to help make the richer look of the wax LSP come out better, as one would expect from similar and compatible carnauba based products. Conversely, the AquaWax (which is actually polymer based and not a wax) enhances the "candied" look of a sealant LSP. AquaWax is an absolutely superb product not only as a "topper" but also as a drying aid after your car wash.



If anyone has a white or light silver car I believe that following the procedure I've outlined above along with the products I described, will give you good protection and looks without a whole lot of work - or breaking the bank.
 
you do realize that DG105 has no abrasives right? So you didn't "polish" the paint at all, you just got it extra clean. It's more like an AIO than anything. You would have been better off IMO leaving the layer of 105 on the paint and calling it a day, or adding another layer over it to ensure even coverage. I don't know what P21S consists of because I don't use it.



At the end of the day there isn't a HUGE difference in looks of different waxes or sealants and MOST people cannot look at the same car and know which is which. IMO sealants are brighter and have a more glass like appearance while waxes IMO are more warm and sort of natural looking. They both look good.



A garage kept car with 105 on it has lasted me up to 6-8 months (years ago on my old Evo), the car was also a DD though, so it did go through some weathering.

Likewise I got good results on my old 370z with 915 on it, though this one was NOT garage kept.
 
Guitarist302008 said:
you do realize that DG105 has no abrasives right? So you didn't "polish" the paint at all, you just got it extra clean. It's more like an AIO than anything.



105 does indeed have abrasives.
 
This is what I got from their site... it says only cleaning agents.



Synthetic Polymer/Wax Formula. Super-tough coating forms a protective barrier which protect against acid rain, tree sap, bird droppings and other environmental pollutants.



One Step Wax - Recommended for all vehicles. Contains additional cleaning properties to remove mild oxidation and light surface scratches.
 
LOL, again, you are back to believing marketing! I can feel the actual abrasives in it.



Oh and this:



dgloss@duragloss.com

11/22/10

to dan



Thanks for the great comments! DG501 has the most functional abrasive; next would be DG105, and the least DG101.



Thank you,



Bill
 
Back
Top